[Million$]

Sounds good!

[Javy23]

Sounds good!

[91_gsx600F katana]

Just an update. got my new 6psi and 8psi WG springs as well as my new oil temp gauge.

I installed the new OIL temp gauge today as I wanted mine to match. Had to modify the lower underside fairing to accept the new longer oil temp sender unit. The new gauge is a 140*F - 340*F gauge where my older gauge is 100-300*F gauge which means I wont see any oil temp on the gauge in the cooler months when oil temps were below 140*F.

Still need to swap out the WG spring for the 6psi and see if I cant get this thing to build 6psi boost

Bike has alittle over 400 miles on the turbo setup and all is working great.

Also looking at how to mount the camera for some better videos.

[Stirred]

Looks awesome

[91_gsx600F katana]

Just swapped in a 6psi waste gate spring today. Hope to get it out tmrw and see what 6 psi feels like

[91_gsx600F katana]

So I took it out today. Puttin around town the bike feels normal. Took it on the highway for some full throttle blasts and it looks like I'm going to have to Drop at least 1 more jet size. Getting lot of popping/hesitation/hitting a rev limiter again starting at 7k. Which means I'm prob super rich yet again due to the much warmer temps which requires less fuel as the air temp/outside ambient temps increase.

So next thing on the to do list is drop to a 105 main or a 103.5. Not sure if I should just drop 1 size or 2 as I don't have the WB02 hooked up. Most likely I will do 1 jet as that seems that the 107.5 was good for the cooler months and I think will offer better year round running for these hotter and cooler months going with the 105 main jets. Will report back with results.

[ThomasBullis]

This bike sounds pretty sweet to me. Such a dream bike

[91_gsx600F katana]

This bike sounds pretty sweet to me. Such a dream bike

Thanks, shes a blast to ride when working right. Should be even more fun with a boosted B12 (B12 on the wayyyyy)

[91_gsx600F katana]

Update

Pulled the bike into the tent with all the rain we've been getting and started to tear it apart alittle.

Yanked the tank and right away was stunned at what I found. 3 of the 4 carb rubber couplers from the plenum popped off or wheren't clamped down on the carb bodies anymore. See pic. carbs 2, 3, and 4. I'm wondering if that is why I was getting popping and hesitation under WOT when it started to build boost.

Now I'm trying to figure out how and why It did that. either pressure on the Positive side literally blew the plenum off the carbs ( i saw a 5psi spike before it wouldn't build more than 3 psi at WOT) or pressure pushing down on the pressure side going into the plenum caused the plenum to push down pulling the boots off. Not sure yet, maybe I'll figure out a way to keep the plenum pushed on to the carbs with a bracket of some kind.

I stopped after pulling the plenum for today. I will pull the carbs and still jet down to prob a 105 main jet. I ordered a 40 micron fuel filter that I will put on the pressure side of the fuel system before entering the carbs. Remember this is not a gravity fed system so since the fuel is under pressure with a fuel pump it should have no issues pushing through this 40 micron filter. Thus giving me some protection of crap in the gas getting into the carbs and causing any issues as its been running off unfiltered fuel for the last 500 miles with the turbo setup.

Should have it up and running by the weekend if I get time to work on it.

Pic of the carb boots right after yanking the tank.

[Tempted]

T-clamps.They are the only ones that hold the boost I normally run. I also use PVC glue on all vacuum connections. The worst troubleshooting problems are the ones when a little vac line pops off somewhere and you can't find it.

Boost gauge is bottom right. 22psi in this vid:
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wlOVe0AHSwA"]Dodge Daytona Iroc R/T traction loss at 55mph. - YouTube[/ame]

30psi in 3rd in this vid:
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRsLFwMTB0g"]Iroc R/T Stock BOV - YouTube[/ame]

I have a small turbo in the garage and I'm thinking about putting it on my 05 Kat. What size pilot tubes are you running?

[91_gsx600F katana]

T-clamps.They are the only ones that hold the boost I normally run. I also use PVC glue on all vacuum connections. The worst troubleshooting problems are the ones when a little vac line pops off somewhere and you can't find it.

Boost gauge is bottom right. 22psi in this vid:
Dodge Daytona Iroc R/T traction loss at 55mph. - YouTube

30psi in 3rd in this vid:
Iroc R/T Stock BOV - YouTube

I have a small turbo in the garage and I'm thinking about putting it on my 05 Kat. What size pilot tubes are you running?

Wish you had a better video showing what it does with traction lol. Nice though. The more I feel the turbo spool the more I want to turbo something else as the rush is just amazing. Anyway I got the B12 on the way and with the turbo even in stock form ill be at like 120rwhp. if I decide i want more Ill swap out the cams and go even higher but I prob wont as my kat just scared me the other day lol.

I know about Tclamps, unfortunatly the carb bodies dont have enough surface area to clamp to, and Tclamps are wide or wider than worm clamps. If the clamp hangs over the carb body surface than as you tighten it, it wants to pull the boot off the carb. Also tried some stuff yesterday during reassembly like Permetex high tack which I love and i use it on all my gaskets on my cars but It actually made the boots slip off easier! I was so shocked. So no gasket dressings with these rubber couplers.

Im running 5/16" OD double wall steel tubing as my pitot tubes. This is the stuff I had laying around, and I get a 25ft coil of them from summit racing, stuff is used for trans/fuel/brake lines and pretty cheap. Could have went with a 1/4" OD line but then the vent fittings on the carbs are 5/16" barb, so to go from a 1/4 hose to 5/16 would require adapters. So to make my life easier I went with 5/16" OD tube and just ran 5/16" motorcycle fuel line (bc its thinner than regular auto fuel line) to the bowl vent fittings. There is very little room there for a regular fuel line thickness.

[91_gsx600F katana]

UPDATE:

Got the bike all together yesterday and found out a few things. I installed the 40 micron billet inline fuel filter to help keep the junk out of my carbs.

1.) tried to put a gasket dressing to help make the rubber couplers STICK better to the carbs and plenum, stuff is called permetex high tack. I love this stuff and its really really sticky and resistent to gas and oil etc. I put it on but as i tightened down the clamps it would push itself right off the plenum and stuff. So it actually made things worse. I decided to take it off and just put it all back. Made sure the worm clamps are on good and the boots as best I could.

Do you think aluminum hose ends could be welded to the stock carb bodies to allow better coupler sealing? that would be hard and prob expensive not to mention warping the carb bodies. but would make my life much easier lol.

2.) I had down jetted my carbs to 105 main jets and slightly leaned out the A/F screws alittle to compensate for the warmer ambient temps.

3.) Installed 40 micron billet fuel filter inline between the fuel regulator and the carbs. This will catch stuff that will get into my carbs as long as its 40 microns and larger. This one is reusable and I can wash out the sintered bronze filter element. Cost was about 14$. Again its a chrome plated billet aluminum russel brand so its not a cheapo filter, MADE IN THE USA! See pic!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-645060

4.) Also got a 1.5" straight silicon coupler from turbonetics for the turbo to charge pipe connection but decided not to install it as the worm clamps kinda dug into it. So i will get some nice T clamps to install it at a later date.

5.) Got everything back together and when filling up the tank decided to put 1.5 gallons of 87 pump gas and the rest is 93 pump gas just incase this thing builds more boost lol.


Took it out for a beating on the highway and holy moly! In a 2nd gear pull from 3K up the bike felt really good and then I felt the boost kick in but it felt much stronger than usually like CRAPPPPPP! I look down at the boost gauge and its climbing very quickly from 0 to 12psi! I let off and shifted and floored it again and it built something like 9psi and then shifted again then it was building like 5-6psi. In 6th gear going WOT its building about 5-6psi but thats prob bc Im not going 11K and more around 9-10K before I let off bc Im doing 120mph+

I was shocked to see the boost get that high. but the bike is stupid fast with that much boost and I could have sworn I was lifting the front wheel in 2nd and 3rd on the highway as handling became different.

I tested again on the way back and got similar boost numbers. I'm glad I put 93 octane gas in the tank as the boost is double want it should be in the lower gears. Not I figure the 6psi waste gate spring is wayyyy to tall compared to the stock 4psi spring that came in the waste gate and Im wondering if compressing it as much as I had to to get it in is causing higher PSI numbers. Either way 12psi was amazing and if I need to put 93 in the tank its worth the extra $.40 a gallon lol. It was about 80*F outside at the time and engine oil temps were 180-200*F and with only 3* retard in the timing I felt no detonation or anything.

STill I think 9-12psi is too high without an intercooler and would rather not have that much. Also carbs are running much better with leaner Main jets and stuff. No hesitations going into boost and all that jazz.

[Tempted]

You can use a redundant external wastegate that will help with boost spikes. You can even put one on the cold side to bleed some air. Just get a one way spring and ball check valve and set it to open at whatever boost you want.

Something to remember about boost is higher isn't better. The higher the psi, the lower the efficiency. An example is I can take a stock Dodge Omni GLH, cap the wastegate and surge the heck out of it to 20psi. But if I open up the intake and exhaust to flow better the turbo won't spool past 12psi yet the engine makes 20 more hp.

In simple terms, PSI of boost is a measure of inefficiency. The higher the PSI, the lower the efficiency. Think of it like a drinking straw vs a coffee straw. Blowing through the drinking straw offers almost no pressure but a high flow. Blow through the coffee straw and the pressure goes up however you have to work harder to provide the same volume of air.

[91_gsx600F katana]

Yea I understand the concept. The turbo is oversized for the application as of next season a Bandit 1200 motor will be taking its place. Which I was planning for larger displacement engines higher than the 600. This turbo is rated for 85-150hp and 200 Hp max. I'm prob around 80hp on the 600 so I'm not pushing the turbo into the innefficency range. Which is nice bc low pressure also means lower intake air temps. But I see
What your saying. 6-10psi is the sweet spot for this particular turbo graph and compressor map. I will say that it was much faster at 12psi compared to the 4.5psi.

[crazycraven420]

I cant wait to see this thing in action glad to see the progress.