[loudnlow7484]

Yeah i am gonna buy a plastic welder to fix the cracks and repair what needs to be repaired, but I am still wanting to lay a covor of fiberglass over the entire thing. I want to add to it my own touches....so i wont need a mold or anything, I just have never worked with fiberglass before and didnt know what type would be the best to use....shredded mat, or cloth (woven). and what type of resin would be best for not being too brittle? Also, what would i need to put on my fairings in order to have the fiberglass adhere to it good enough that it will never come off?
I am just looking for general info on the fiberglass issues all together...like, do i need a filler on top of it to sand down before i paint or can i just sand down the resin itself?

I spent a significant part of my life doing fiberglass work on a regular basis, and I'm telling you that you are trying to do things in an inefficient way. Your panels will be at least double thickness, they won't fit together right, and it's going to be a TON of work/mess. What kind of "your own touches" are you trying to add that couldn't be done with plastic instead?

[Slofuze]

Why would you want to make your bike heavier? Just curious.

If you've never worked with fiberglass before, I HIGHLY recommend you go find some old plastic fenders or something to practice on before you even touch your fairings.

+1

[plexlove]

The reason i dont want to use plastic is because my fairings are so cracked up right now it would take forever to patch it all and get it all sanded and ready to paint, i might as well make it look brand new with one whole piece of fiberglass instead of many pieces of plastic welded together!
I dont care about the extra 20-30lbs of weight, im never gonna race it or anything so that is of no concern to me.
As far as "my own touches" well I just want to add another scoop or two so it doesnt look exactly the same as everyone elses.
Trust me, i have thought thru the plastic idea over and over and in the end it is going to cost more and be more work for me.
From all the videos i have seen and other people i have talked to about fiberglass, i have been told it is as simple as scuffing up my fairings, putting down a layer of resin and wait for it to harden to the touch but still be sticky then lay the sheet of fiberglass over and cut as needed. Then brush on another thick coat of resin to saturate it and let it dry, then sand, putty, sand, primer, and paint!
I just dont know what the best kind of fiberglass to use, weight, etc.. or what kind of resin would be the best?
I really appreciate all the advice and suggestions, but just so you guys know, i am not looking to make this into something super cool, I am sure i will lay it over many times over the next year so i just want something cheap, easy, and easy to fix! lol

[loudnlow7484]

The reason i dont want to use plastic is because my fairings are so cracked up right now it would take forever to patch it all and get it all sanded and ready to paint, i might as well make it look brand new with one whole piece of fiberglass instead of many pieces of plastic welded together!
I dont care about the extra 20-30lbs of weight, im never gonna race it or anything so that is of no concern to me.
As far as "my own touches" well I just want to add another scoop or two so it doesnt look exactly the same as everyone elses.
Trust me, i have thought thru the plastic idea over and over and in the end it is going to cost more and be more work for me.
From all the videos i have seen and other people i have talked to about fiberglass, i have been told it is as simple as scuffing up my fairings, putting down a layer of resin and wait for it to harden to the touch but still be sticky then lay the sheet of fiberglass over and cut as needed. Then brush on another thick coat of resin to saturate it and let it dry, then sand, putty, sand, primer, and paint!
I just dont know what the best kind of fiberglass to use, weight, etc.. or what kind of resin would be the best?
I really appreciate all the advice and suggestions, but just so you guys know, i am not looking to make this into something super cool, I am sure i will lay it over many times over the next year so i just want something cheap, easy, and easy to fix! lol

Whatever guy. I've built loads of stuff out of fiberglass, and I've pieced together fairings out of plastic. I'm telling you that the fiberglass thing isn't going to work out the way you want it to. First, that is far from the best way to lay mat down. Second, the stuff is rough.... it's going to take a bunch of sanding. If you don't know what you're doing, it will be worse, because you will get air bubbles between layers, you'll pull up the glass with the paintbrush, etc. This is going to be a mess. But oh well..... you can lead a horse to water and all that....

Use normal polyester resin. The best resin I ever used came from a local marina that did boat repairs. It was cheap too (at least when buying 10 gallons at a time). Use 1.5oz chopped mat. You can use 3/4oz, but you'd need more layers, and more layers means more possibility for air bubbles. Woven mat doesn't form to curves as well. Cut the mat to size first. Lay plastic over a table, and lay down some resin on the plastic. Lay the first layer of mat in the resin, and then add resin until it's saturated. Lay the next layer directly onto the first layer, and saturate that. Repeat for however many layers you need. Let it sit for a couple minutes, and then move all layers together (you couldn't separate them if you wanted to at this point) onto your working piece. The reason for this (and the reason why the method you stated is so bad) is because sitting in the resin for a few minutes loosens up the mat, and lets it form to the curves. Dry mat will kink and rise. You don't want it absolutely soaked, because it won't stick to anything then, but you don't want it dry because you'll end up sanding into dry mat when you try to finish it.

I think it's funny that you claim it's going to take more work and money to use plastic, when you have no idea what it's going to take to do glass.

Let me see...... $5 bag of zip ties, $5 can of ABS cement, and $10 for a cheap soldering iron vs $45 for 3 yards of good mat, $40 for a gallon of resin, $15 for body filler..... plus the mess and fumes that come with glass work. I can't see your logic.

[plexlove]

Whatever guy. I've built loads of stuff out of fiberglass, and I've pieced together fairings out of plastic. I'm telling you that the fiberglass thing isn't going to work out the way you want it to. First, that is far from the best way to lay mat down. Second, the stuff is rough.... it's going to take a bunch of sanding. If you don't know what you're doing, it will be worse, because you will get air bubbles between layers, you'll pull up the glass with the paintbrush, etc. This is going to be a mess. But oh well..... you can lead a horse to water and all that....

Use normal polyester resin. The best resin I ever used came from a local marina that did boat repairs. It was cheap too (at least when buying 10 gallons at a time). Use 1.5oz chopped mat. You can use 3/4oz, but you'd need more layers, and more layers means more possibility for air bubbles. Woven mat doesn't form to curves as well. Cut the mat to size first. Lay plastic over a table, and lay down some resin on the plastic. Lay the first layer of mat in the resin, and then add resin until it's saturated. Lay the next layer directly onto the first layer, and saturate that. Repeat for however many layers you need. Let it sit for a couple minutes, and then move all layers together (you couldn't separate them if you wanted to at this point) onto your working piece. The reason for this (and the reason why the method you stated is so bad) is because sitting in the resin for a few minutes loosens up the mat, and lets it form to the curves. Dry mat will kink and rise. You don't want it absolutely soaked, because it won't stick to anything then, but you don't want it dry because you'll end up sanding into dry mat when you try to finish it.

I think it's funny that you claim it's going to take more work and money to use plastic, when you have no idea what it's going to take to do glass.

Let me see...... $5 bag of zip ties, $5 can of ABS cement, and $10 for a cheap soldering iron vs $45 for 3 yards of good mat, $40 for a gallon of resin, $15 for body filler..... plus the mess and fumes that come with glass work. I can't see your logic.

Thanks for the help, but I think I am goin to still go with fiberglass!
I dont think you are understanding what I am talking about doing or needing here.
My fairings are screwed, cracked, scraped, broke, and 1 piece even missing, just fixing all of the cracks and scratches and what not will take a very long time and a lot of work. As far as those prices you quoted, that will not be enough at all! I am wanting to add more to my fairings and make them unique, cant do that with melted zip ties and abs cement, thats only good for patching cracks!
I dont want to mess with fixing each individual crack and blemish and then have to buy a $40 plus sheet of abs plastic, then have to make a mold for it and heat it up over it then cement it on and hide the cracks. thats just too much work.
As far as fiberglass goes, i dont really know what im doing, just from videos on youtube and people talking. Why do I need several layers? wouldnt 1 layer be enough? Im not bitching, just curious lol. And do I just use that resin on the fairings to hold the fiberglass to them?

[loudnlow7484]

Thanks for the help, but I think I am goin to still go with fiberglass!
I dont think you are understanding what I am talking about doing or needing here.
My fairings are screwed, cracked, scraped, broke, and 1 piece even missing, just fixing all of the cracks and scratches and what not will take a very long time and a lot of work. As far as those prices you quoted, that will not be enough at all! I am wanting to add more to my fairings and make them unique, cant do that with melted zip ties and abs cement, thats only good for patching cracks!
I dont want to mess with fixing each individual crack and blemish and then have to buy a $40 plus sheet of abs plastic, then have to make a mold for it and heat it up over it then cement it on and hide the cracks. thats just too much work.
As far as fiberglass goes, i dont really know what im doing, just from videos on youtube and people talking. Why do I need several layers? wouldnt 1 layer be enough? Im not bitching, just curious lol. And do I just use that resin on the fairings to hold the fiberglass to them?

You're liable to sand through one layer of 3/4oz mat just getting it smoothed out, especially since you've never done it before. Really, you have NO idea how much finishing work is involved with making something from fiberglass (unless it's from a mold, then it's easy). I know exactly what you want to do, you just assume that your completely uneducated and inexperienced ideas are the best ones. That's fine. Do what you want. I've given you my advice, as somebody that has worked a lot with fiberglass, and a person that has repaired plastic fairings, but you don't want to listen. I'm done giving advice now. Go play with your fiberglass. I can't wait to see how it comes out......

[05RedKat600]

Thanks for the help, but I think I am goin to still go with fiberglass!
I dont think you are understanding what I am talking about doing or needing here.
My fairings are screwed, cracked, scraped, broke, and 1 piece even missing, just fixing all of the cracks and scratches and what not will take a very long time and a lot of work. As far as those prices you quoted, that will not be enough at all! I am wanting to add more to my fairings and make them unique, cant do that with melted zip ties and abs cement, thats only good for patching cracks!
I dont want to mess with fixing each individual crack and blemish and then have to buy a $40 plus sheet of abs plastic, then have to make a mold for it and heat it up over it then cement it on and hide the cracks. thats just too much work.
As far as fiberglass goes, i dont really know what im doing, just from videos on youtube and people talking. Why do I need several layers? wouldnt 1 layer be enough? Im not bitching, just curious lol. And do I just use that resin on the fairings to hold the fiberglass to them?

[plexlove]

You're liable to sand through one layer of 3/4oz mat just getting it smoothed out, especially since you've never done it before. Really, you have NO idea how much finishing work is involved with making something from fiberglass (unless it's from a mold, then it's easy). I know exactly what you want to do, you just assume that your completely uneducated and inexperienced ideas are the best ones. That's fine. Do what you want. I've given you my advice, as somebody that has worked a lot with fiberglass, and a person that has repaired plastic fairings, but you don't want to listen. I'm done giving advice now. Go play with your fiberglass. I can't wait to see how it comes out......

I am listening to your advice and taking it into consideration, i never go into a project uneducated, i will learn everything there is to learn before I begin! So you do have to get all ****y about it!
I cant use abs even if i could find a cheap place to get it because I would have to make a mold and im not gonna waste time with it.
Dont worry, i will post pics as it comes and we will see how it turns out.

[loudnlow7484]

I am listening to your advice and taking it into consideration, i never go into a project uneducated, i will learn everything there is to learn before I begin! So you do have to get all ****y about it!
I cant use abs even if i could find a cheap place to get it because I would have to make a mold and im not gonna waste time with it.
Dont worry, i will post pics as it comes and we will see how it turns out.

How do you suppose you'll make scoops out of fiberglass with no mold? Go ahead with your preconceived notions about what is going to be easier. I've seen enough so-called "professionals" fail massively at fiberglass work.... this should be really entertaining!

[plexlove]

How do you suppose you'll make scoops out of fiberglass with no mold? Go ahead with your preconceived notions about what is going to be easier. I've seen enough so-called "professionals" fail massively at fiberglass work.... this should be really entertaining!

Its not difficult to make a few small scoop molds to to put on my original fairing before i lay the fiberglass.....
Anyways, thanks for the advice and the tips...i will keep you updated.

[Kreylyn]

Cheap sources of abs...

16oz liquid abs = about $6 at lowes.
ABS pipe = about $1-2" per foot at lowes depending on the size and thickness you want.
Heat gun = about $10 at harbor freight.
Alternative ABS sources... other/extra bike fairings.

Card board covered with tin foil = perfect mold and release agent for making liquid abs molds if needed.

Heat gun can be used to heat any spot of abs up to around 400 degrees, which can then be molded by hand (with gloves) to make things curve, straighten curves, etc... Allow to cool under 350 degrees and it will keep that shape permanently.

ABS and fiberglass have different properties when it comes to heat, vibration, and impact. Many times just sun cycles can cause them to seperate and form gaps/cracks. I would not recomend mixing the 2 together if you want a long term good looking fix.

Krey

[plexlove]

Cheap sources of abs...

16oz liquid abs = about $6 at lowes.
ABS pipe = about $1-2" per foot at lowes depending on the size and thickness you want.
Heat gun = about $10 at harbor freight.
Alternative ABS sources... other/extra bike fairings.

Card board covered with tin foil = perfect mold and release agent for making liquid abs molds if needed.

Heat gun can be used to heat any spot of abs up to around 400 degrees, which can then be molded by hand (with gloves) to make things curve, straighten curves, etc... Allow to cool under 350 degrees and it will keep that shape permanently.

ABS and fiberglass have different properties when it comes to heat, vibration, and impact. Many times just sun cycles can cause them to seperate and form gaps/cracks. I would not recomend mixing the 2 together if you want a long term good looking fix.

Krey

Thanks, that was a lot more useful info.... so if i go to lowes and buy the liquid i can make a coop mold and put the liquid over it on the original abs and glue it down? Then what? sand and paint?
As far as the tubes go, should i just cut them down the center the heat to get them flat in order to remold to the pieces i want?

i also just read that i can take bits of abs and mix with acetone in a jar or mek and make a liquid abs....i looked at lowes and home depot and they have no liquid abs, the only thing i could find was abs to pvc glue.

[loudnlow7484]

ABS cement is liquid ABS, it's in a blue and white can in the plumbing section of every home improvement store.

[plexlove]

ABS cement is liquid ABS, it's in a blue and white can in the plumbing section of every home improvement store.

Ok cool, i thought it was just an adhesive....but still it would probably be cheaper to make a larger volume of it making it myself right?

[loudnlow7484]

Ok cool, i thought it was just an adhesive....but still it would probably be cheaper to make a larger volume of it making it myself right?

I have no idea. I don't use liquid for making shapes, I use sheet (12x24 is all of $7 retail, and I'm pretty sure we paid a bit less than that at the shop). I see no reason why it wouldn't work, I've just never done it that way. I guess as long as you don't make the liquid too thin it should be fine.