[Kreylyn]

i'm doing the electrolysis process on my tank and have a question. visually before i started there only looked to be slight surface rust in some spots but wasn't really that bad.

i've been treating the tank for nearly 2 weeks and still getting rust and a green colored crud. i never noticed the green stuff in the tank before, but now when i rinse the tank its there and wasn't before? anyone know whats going on?

Either something added to the water (didn't use pure washing soda, tap water has lots of impurities/minerals) or a coating on the inside of the tank (varnish left by gas for example)...

Krey

[sextonjd99]

i'm using sodium carbonate like what was said to use. its a pool product used to treat the water. My electrodes come out looking like all the pictures in the thead and i'm starting build a small pile of rust like all the rest. guess i'll keep treating to see what happens?

[Kreylyn]

i'm using sodium carbonate like what was said to use. its a pool product used to treat the water. My electrodes come out looking like all the pictures in the thead and i'm starting build a small pile of rust like all the rest. guess i'll keep treating to see what happens?

I used tap water... I'm assuming you did as well? That would be a common option, and as I mentioned... contains minerals and possible other additives depending on your water source (flouride for example).

It was there when I did it... you can see it in the pictures a dark green slime almost. When dried, it either disappated, or turned rust red...

It is a normal part of the process though that I have been able to verify.

I'll try one time with distilled water to see if that makes a difference.

Krey

[Pa Kat]

Yup, I'll be the one to dig up an old thread. I -DO- have a reason for doing so.

Okay, so it's the end of March here in Pa, it is *grumble* still cold. I left this process go on overnight on my patio, came out this morning to see VERY little has happened. I knew it wasn't "done", but I decided to dump the solution anyway. Turns out, the solution started to ice up. I then mixed a new batch of solution(Using HOT water), cleaned the anode, and started up the charger. Yup, all the difference in the world!!!

It's still not done, but I figured I'd add that little bit of info for those that may try doing something like this in the winter months...It might not work too well.

-Mike-

[Londob5]

Yup, I'll be the one to dig up an old thread. I -DO- have a reason for doing so.

Okay, so it's the end of March here in Pa, it is *grumble* still cold. I left this process go on overnight on my patio, came out this morning to see VERY little has happened. I knew it wasn't "done", but I decided to dump the solution anyway. Turns out, the solution started to ice up. I then mixed a new batch of solution(Using HOT water), cleaned the anode, and started up the charger. Yup, all the difference in the world!!!

It's still not done, but I figured I'd add that little bit of info for those that may try doing something like this in the winter months...It might not work too well.

-Mike-

The higher kinetic energy of warm or hot water will be superior to the lower kinetic energy of cold water. If the water is cold, the ions will be less soluble, and therefore have significantly decreased progress.
However, water that is too hot is also bad, as this could potentially cause more H2 gas to be produced, leading to a really bad situation in a closed area (like a small room or a closet). Room temp to warm will be ideal, but I wouldn't go over 100 degrees F or about 38 degrees C.

[gsduerksen]

Wow! Good thing I saw this! I was about to Kreem my tank tomorrow. I'm gonna try this at the shop in the morning.

[gsduerksen]

So my tank is at the shop filled with water and sodium biocarbonate, hooked up to battery charger with 1" flat bar hanging in tank, had a pretty good film of rust on it before I left for the night.

[Pa Kat]

Well, Cyndi's tank turned out BEAUTIFUL! I'm now in the process of doing a tank for my father in law. He had an old Craftsman lawn mower that sat for a LONG time, I submerged the ENTIRE tank in a tote filled with water and washing soda, my GOD that tank was horrible. He's gonna crap a brick when he sees what this has done.

[adam731432]

I am going to do this on a couple katana and 3wheeler tanks I have. Also some bolts,tools,and who knows what else in the future. Does it leave the metal with a dull look like Phosphoric acid?

"How can I remove old Kreem?

Acetone(brake parts cleaner?) or Methyl ethyl keytone available at most paint stores will re-dissolve Kreem. Fill about half full, seal the thank,and leave for about 24 hours with periodic agitation. Drain into a container and inspect tank. If Kreem remains, pour solution back into tank,reseal and repeat until all Kreem is removed."

[Kreylyn]

I am going to do this on a couple katana and 3wheeler tanks I have. Also some bolts,tools,and who knows what else in the future. Does it leave the metal with a dull look like Phosphoric acid?

The metal is coated with a layer of pure iron, so it will be a duller gray look at first.

krey

[HarrysKat]

where is the post on the actual how to of this? its amazing lol

[loonybin]

where is the post on the actual how to of this? its amazing lol

There are places all over the Net with how-to instructions on electrolysis. My son did this as a science experiment for 5th grade, although on a much smaller scale. I tried the phosphoric acid/BB sloshing trick today and very poor results, so I pulled out a tub and dunked the tank (after a thorough rinse, that is) and recreated my son's experiment on a considerably larger scale. I've already dumped the solution once and am on round two.

Two very important notes:
1) use steel or iron rods/flat bars, etc. Do not use aluminum (wrong reaction). DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL (unless you enjoy toxic heavy metals around you)!!!
2) use sodium carbonate NOT sodium bicarbonate This is what you want:

[PhoenixZip]

I used tap water... I'm assuming you did as well? That would be a common option, and as I mentioned... contains minerals and possible other additives depending on your water source (flouride for example).

It was there when I did it... you can see it in the pictures a dark green slime almost. When dried, it either disappated, or turned rust red...

It is a normal part of the process though that I have been able to verify.

I'll try one time with distilled water to see if that makes a difference.

Krey

Would'nt Pure/Distilled Water actually act as an insulator, hindering the process? Rather than a mineral water which would readily allow electricity to flow through it, (Not a electrican or chemist but I sat through a lock-out tag-out meeting today and they mentioned this) Then again with the chemicals added it would change the waters chemistry again, allowing it to be conductive... I'd like to know results.

[Kreylyn]

Would'nt Pure/Distilled Water actually act as an insulator, hindering the process? Rather than a mineral water which would readily allow electricity to flow through it, (Not a electrican or chemist but I sat through a lock-out tag-out meeting today and they mentioned this) Then again with the chemicals added it would change the waters chemistry again, allowing it to be conductive... I'd like to know results.

The sodium bicarbonate you add is the catalyst... so you can certainly start with distilled or purified water.

Krey

[Xrayron]

I noticed nowhere in this thread that this process creates... Hydrogen/Oxygen and sometimes Chlorine gas!! lol.

In small amounts but in a confined area over night it can be filled with a lot both hydrogen and oxygen.

Also if this process is taking FOREVER... you have to understand 1 of the basic rules of electrolysis.

the mass of substance deposited at the electrodes is directly proportional to their equivalent weights.

So your best bet for removing rust faster is by using a larger iron electrode not by increasing the load to the electrode.

Also your old used electrolyzed water can now be used as a cleaner/disinfectant and works pretty damn good that's basically what Oxiclean is.