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You are awesome! I purchased a 92 which was dropped hard and suffered some significant plastic damage (rash and the upper right fairing from the mirrors up was missing). This is my first time working on plastics or body work. I followed all the directions on this thread and a few creative adjustments and I think the results were good so far. The first pic here is the portion of the right fairing that was missing. The next pic is the rash on the left fairing. Next pic it the upper portion of the left fairing, lots of cracks. Next is the after pic of the left fairing. Next is the right fairing with the peice of trash can lid that I carved out to help form the missing parts then fiberglassed it together. Finally the primed upper portion of the right fairing (aka the lid to a trash can).
So, to show my ignorance on these ABS / Plastic body panels, will regular Bondo for car body repair work to fill in deep scratches and such? Bike was knocked over in the parking lot several times when the PO had it. I want to fix the paint, just not familiar with these types of panels.
Life is what happens while your planning everything else!!
Current rides
1993 Suzuki Katana 600
1981 Yamaha XS1100 Special
Use black abs cement. Just repaired and painted my fairings. Very workable and hardens to be completely sandable. I rebuilt an entire section of my fairing with the stuff and some major fractures.
Don't use ABS cement for filling in deep scratches as a filler. I tried it and its full of tiny air bubbles that come out when sanding down. Still sourcing whats best to use for a plastic filler
Use Legos and acetone or acetone and any ABS. ABS cement is fine, you need to complete the work, a filler primer will fill the pin holes.
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It's a shame that the pics in the first thread are gone...There was talk of this being archived? Can anyone direct me to a link?
FYI - In 2016 you can buy a spool of 1.75 or 2.85mm ABS 3D printer filament in many different colors and use that in conjunction with acetone to make your own ABS filler. Mix it until it is the right consistency and work quickly before it flashes off. Any brand/price/diameter will work. Legos as mentioned also work.
I prefer to break the filament up into short lengths and let it soak in a covered container that won't melt, like a glass jar, coffee can (clean it first) or HDPE container. Let the acetone do it's work. If it is too soupy, pour some off - but let it soak for a while first. A small squeeze bottle (HDPE) will work if you do it fast enough for using it like a caulk gun. A silicone cake decorator bag may also work.
I have several 3D printers and 'ABS Juice' (a mixture of ABS filament and acetone in a spritz bottle) is used to help the print stick to the heated bed via cross linking. I haven't tried one of those hand held doodle 3D print pens, but I am curious if I could get enough control out of one to use it as a plastic welder of sorts. I can't be the only one that has thought of this. Larger areas (within reason) that are missing from the plastics can be 3D printed and then joined to the original panel. I'll be doing a little of this on my 1100 fairings at the top where they screw in to the fillers.
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