Tweet
I only recently stopped into this part of the forum and there seems to be a lot of the same questions. So while i'm not a pro be any means at all I have done enough research and painted quite a few vehicles at his point. I figure that i could start this thread as a start to a basic guide to what you need to do and get to paint your bike the right way so it lasts. I saw that AzCyco Started this I and then a few things were corrected here and there. So i was hoping we could start with that ans compile a good in depth guide to all the steps you need to do laid out plan and simple that could possibly be stickied! We can just copy the list and make edits to it right here on this thread and then post a final thread when it's complete.
Hopefully Mojoe will add some stuff to help out.
Materials needed :
Sand paper :: 180 (for bondo/filler) / 400 (after first coat of primer) / 600 (after last coat of primer) / 1000/2000 (clearcoat)
Primer :: plastic primer -- sandable primer (ie 2K primer/surfacer)
Paint (acrylic urethane), Urathane Reducer, Clear coat & Activator (2 Stage Paint Job)
Tac cloth
Distilled water ( for wet sanding, no mineral build up on paint)
Resporator
Gloves (non-powder type)
Paint Strainers
Stir sticks
Plastic container w/ oz marks for measuring
High humidity will effect painting.
**GET the "P-sheets for all your painting products. They will tell you time inbetween coats and other info. All times listed below are just estimates for you basic painting and may vary with paint companies.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Sanding ::
Rough up the existing paint and rough areas with w/ 400. After sanding area, wipe down w/ clean (lint free) cloths.
- Bondo ::
If necassary, you can repair cracks with a filler such as bondo.
Body filler will soak up moisture so be sure to seal it quickly in high humidity.
- Sanding ::
After using a body filler for any cracks, smooth out the area with 400 grit sand paper.
- Priming::
Light coats, not thick. Build up layers. Let dry 1 hour before applying base coat(s)
The lighter the color of primer the more acurate the matching color will be.
*Use a self etching primer on any bondo or bare metal if the is any on the area your painting
**Use a sandable 2K primer surfacer on all plastics. It allows the plastics to flex slightly.
Lightly wet sand the primer/surfacer with 600 paper to a smooth finish using distlled water.
Wipe with a clean lint free rag.
- Painting::
BC-
Apply two to three medium wet coats of base color, enough to cover the color below. allow to dry between coats. let dry 10-20 mins between coats.
CC-
Four coats of clear is then applied with the same time allowances as basecoats.
Then use a very fine wet sandpaper such as 600 grit to knock down any fine bumps in the clear coat.
Then a fine abrasive, clear coat specific rubbing compound is applied. Buff out very carefully.
Next a polish product is used to eliminate buffer swirls and to give the high gloss finish
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Can someone give an example of the clear coat rubbing compound and polish product.
I've also read about a tech called "burning" which you use reducer with clear coat and spray a mist over the clear. It allows a glossy finish with out all the buffing. Anyone know anymore, I've used it once and it worked out well.
So far i've compiled info from AzCyco, Mojoe, TBFGhost and Myself.
[/u]
Hopefully Mojoe will add some stuff to help out.
Materials needed :
Sand paper :: 180 (for bondo/filler) / 400 (after first coat of primer) / 600 (after last coat of primer) / 1000/2000 (clearcoat)
Primer :: plastic primer -- sandable primer (ie 2K primer/surfacer)
Paint (acrylic urethane), Urathane Reducer, Clear coat & Activator (2 Stage Paint Job)
Tac cloth
Distilled water ( for wet sanding, no mineral build up on paint)
Resporator
Gloves (non-powder type)
Paint Strainers
Stir sticks
Plastic container w/ oz marks for measuring
High humidity will effect painting.
**GET the "P-sheets for all your painting products. They will tell you time inbetween coats and other info. All times listed below are just estimates for you basic painting and may vary with paint companies.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Sanding ::
Rough up the existing paint and rough areas with w/ 400. After sanding area, wipe down w/ clean (lint free) cloths.
- Bondo ::
If necassary, you can repair cracks with a filler such as bondo.
Body filler will soak up moisture so be sure to seal it quickly in high humidity.
- Sanding ::
After using a body filler for any cracks, smooth out the area with 400 grit sand paper.
- Priming::
Light coats, not thick. Build up layers. Let dry 1 hour before applying base coat(s)
The lighter the color of primer the more acurate the matching color will be.
*Use a self etching primer on any bondo or bare metal if the is any on the area your painting
**Use a sandable 2K primer surfacer on all plastics. It allows the plastics to flex slightly.
Lightly wet sand the primer/surfacer with 600 paper to a smooth finish using distlled water.
Wipe with a clean lint free rag.
- Painting::
BC-
Apply two to three medium wet coats of base color, enough to cover the color below. allow to dry between coats. let dry 10-20 mins between coats.
CC-
Four coats of clear is then applied with the same time allowances as basecoats.
Then use a very fine wet sandpaper such as 600 grit to knock down any fine bumps in the clear coat.
Then a fine abrasive, clear coat specific rubbing compound is applied. Buff out very carefully.
Next a polish product is used to eliminate buffer swirls and to give the high gloss finish
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Can someone give an example of the clear coat rubbing compound and polish product.
I've also read about a tech called "burning" which you use reducer with clear coat and spray a mist over the clear. It allows a glossy finish with out all the buffing. Anyone know anymore, I've used it once and it worked out well.
So far i've compiled info from AzCyco, Mojoe, TBFGhost and Myself.
[/u]
Comment