need a couple tips

[cmurdah]

hey guys. i got a new rim off of ebay for 70 bucks shipped. just a couple questions here:

whats the best way to get my front tire off while on the center stand? the back tire is already off.

when i took my back tire off, i could lift the sprocket out but the rotor is bolted down really freaking tight. i tried using a pry bar on an allen wrench to bust one loose but it almost broke the wrench and didnt budge the bolt. am i going about taking it off the right way?

btw, i have a post gsx600f.

thanks guys!

[paul.miner]

I had a helluva time getting mine loose. So long as you're using a good quality tool (don't let it slip!), I would worry more about the bolt than the tool. I actually ended up snapping the head off of one of the bolts when taking my rear rotor off, had to drill it out and tap it.

I tried penetrating oil, but I don't think the problem was rust, but locktite.

Were I to encounter this problem again, I would carefully consider using a torch on the bolt, followed by cooling. Carefully, because you don't want to excessively heat the rotor (it will warp) or damage the bearings.

As for the front wheel, you could support the bike on the bottom where the exhaust headers run (I had my bike strapped to a motorcycle jack and supported by the headers). Have someone push down on the back to lift the front so you can slip something sturdy under there.

[Balsam]

You might need to buy a set of socket hex keys. They look like this:

Generally they're harder steel than the regular 'L' shaped allen wrenches, so you can apply more torque before they deform (or shatter). Use a breaker bar if you have one, or put that pry-bar on your socket wrench handle. You should be able to get them off that way. If not, you might need to apply a little PB Blaster or Kroil to the bolts, and then let them sit for a day. Either of those products will leach its way into the threads and loosen up any corrosion that's present.

If you still can't get them loose, find a friend who has an impact driver and use it on the lightest setting at first, so you don't shear your bolts off. Or just use a brass hammer to bang on the heads of the bolts a little bit and then try again with the socket wrench/pry bar. That will do the same thing as the impact driver basically... just not quite as effectively because you can't apply torque and bang on the bolt head with a hammer at the same time (without a weird looking tool or four sets of hands).

I say use a brass hammer because it will be less likely to deform the heads of the steel bolts. You'll need to whack them hard enough that a normal steel hammer will start to peen over the bolt heads.

[EDIT] - wow that picture is really big...

[KAT TOY]

Ok my 2 cents worth: Get a hand impact tool and use the allen socket. You use a hammer to get them loose. Impact tool makes a twisting effect plus the downward effect to loosen the bolts. Have used them for years on my job repairing cars. Good luck

[cmurdah]

.

ok so i got my new rim in. it is black so i pulled my front rim off to paint it.

how do i check the bearings on the rear wheel? also, im not sure what they are called but im going to call them rubber things, these are really dirty. what are they for? should i swap my old ones into the new wheel?

any other things i should check while ive got both tires off? i plan on changing my brakes as well.

thanks for the info guys!

edit: just to clarify, when i say rubber things, im talking about the little black things that sit in the rim. i think there are 5 of them (not home right now or i could give a better description)

[steves]

The cush drive? The rubbery parts that fit inside the wheel between the sprocket and the hub?

You can use whichever one is in better shape.

[Wheel]

mine came off relatively easy using the proper hex socket on a breaker bar.

[JokerZwild]

As far as the bearings go roll em around in your fingers. they are made in the factory to roll free but have ZERO play side to side. If you feel the inner race has any wobble whats so ever then do yourself the favor and replace them now. If you dont then you will feel that wobble 10xs more once the assembly its together and running. Due to the increased diam. of the wheel and its rotation. they should spin true and straight. I spun off the hex bolts using the socket shown above and my neumatic impact gun. If thats not available to you a ratchet and cheater bar will work just as well.

[thetable]

To get the front wheel off, I loosen (not remove) all the necessary bolts, then lift the front end up and set each fork leg on a fully extended jack stand.

Rotor, heat and impact will do the best.

Bearings, if there is any doubt, replace. Bearings are cheap and not too hard to replace.

also, im not sure what they are called but im going to call them rubber things, these are really dirty. what are they for? should i swap my old ones into the new wheel?

Cush drive, look for discoloration or cracking in the rubber. If they are blue or cracked, replace them.