What is the length of a new, out of the box, front fork spring for a 2001 Kat 600?
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I don't know that anyone is going to be able to answer that.
In relative information, the front is setup by inserting the springs and then cutting the large spacer at the top to size so that the proper sag is set. Most times, this means the spacer is cut specific to the fork, and cut so that it's aprox 10mm sticking out the top of the fork tube when fully extended.
Due to that, the actual length of the spring isn't really something necessary to know.
Performance wise, the OEM springs are already too soft brand new, so it's not a "wear" issue that they don't perform very well, it's an under weight rating issue most times.
Assuming your asking because you feel the springs are "worn out" and want to measure them... yeah, just get good aftermarket springs at the proper weight rating. They will come with spacer material that you cut as mentioned above.
Krey93 750 Kat
Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736
"I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"
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Thanks guys. Both of my front springs are very close to the "service limit" length. Unfortunately, the service manual only indicates the "service limit" and not the new length.
I have been fighting handlebar wobble and have rebuilt the forks and disassembled, cleaned, greased, and reassembled the steering bearings. The forks do not appear to be bent or damaged in anyway and the slide metals in the forks weren't worn any more worn than I would have expected them to be. I did use 15w fork oil and it helped some. Proper torque on the steering bearing nut helped some as well but didin't solve the problem. The brake rotors have some life left in them and don't appear to have excessive runout. The service manual recommends "rebalancing the forks" but the manual doesn't go further to explain this.
I'm placing a parts order (side stand switch and diode went out so the bike won't start) and was considering replacing the fork springs but will probably not do it.2001 Suzuki Katana 600 ... Bone Stock
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Originally posted by DukeJH View PostThanks guys. Both of my front springs are very close to the "service limit" length. Unfortunately, the service manual only indicates the "service limit" and not the new length.
I have been fighting handlebar wobble and have rebuilt the forks and disassembled, cleaned, greased, and reassembled the steering bearings. The forks do not appear to be bent or damaged in anyway and the slide metals in the forks weren't worn any more worn than I would have expected them to be. I did use 15w fork oil and it helped some. Proper torque on the steering bearing nut helped some as well but didin't solve the problem. The brake rotors have some life left in them and don't appear to have excessive runout. The service manual recommends "rebalancing the forks" but the manual doesn't go further to explain this.
I'm placing a parts order (side stand switch and diode went out so the bike won't start) and was considering replacing the fork springs but will probably not do it.
Racetech springs for your weight would make a HUGE improvement in your front suspension. Probably not the problem with the wobble though.
Have you checked your wheel is not bent, axle is not bent?
To "balance" the forks, you loosen the axle, loosen the bolts for the cross brace. do NOT remove them. Hold the rear brake tight so the wheel will not move, bounce aggressively on the front forks to compress them multiple times. This will allow for the front end to "balance" or settle in. Then tighten the axle and brace back down.
Krey93 750 Kat
Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736
"I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"
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I had a bit of wobble on my '98 600 and when I started looking closer at the front, I found one of the fork brace bolts gone and others loose. I replaced them when I did a fork oil change and it felt much better. I still want to do the racetech springs though.
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Originally posted by toneHey simple stuff first guys
Doing a spring upgrade is a good idea but its not going to help if its something else causing the problem is it now?
Check tyres front & rear for wear & pressure
Check headstock bearings
Check wheel bearings front & rear & dont forget the sprocket carrier bearing
Check swingarm bearings shock & linkage
Check for sticky brakes or warped discs
Check wheel alignment
Then & only then consider a spring change or its just a waste of cash
I get the feeling with the way you worded this post, that you didn't actually read mine where I stated it most likely wasn't the springs.
Then again, over half the items you listed the OP stated he has done already.
Tone, are you reading these posts fully or skipping ahead?
Krey93 750 Kat
Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736
"I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"
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Originally posted by DukeJH View PostThanks for the tip on balancing the forks.
I don't think it's a bad tire. I had a terrible wobble from a cupped tire. Replacing the tires helped, but didn't eliminate the wobble.never sleep with anyone crazier than yourself sigpic2011,2012,2013,2014,2015,2016
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Busy week at work. This is where I am
Done - Check tyres front & rear for wear & pressure
Done - Check headstock bearings
Done - (except sprocket carrier bearing) Check wheel bearings front & rear & dont forget the sprocket carrier bearing
Check swingarm bearings shock & linkage
Done - Check for sticky brakes or warped discs
Done - Check wheel alignment
I plan to balance the front forks this weekend, have the front wheel balance re-checked this week (while I wait for starter interlock parts) and can re-check the front axle while the front wheel is off.
The service manual identifies the following checks for "handlebar wobbles", with recommended service in (parenthesis):
- Loss of balance between right and left front forks, adjust
- Distorted front fork (repair or replace) I expect this would be pretty obvious if the fork were distorted
- Distorted front axle (replace) A simple straightedge test
- Twisted tire (replace) Again, I expect this would be fairly obvious.
According to the service manual, front wheel wobbles can be caused by (with recommended service in (parenthesis):
- Distorted wheel rim (replace) The wheel rim appears to be straight relative to the forks when I spin it. I expect a distorted rim would act like an out of true bicycle tire and appear to wobble.
- Worn front wheel bearing (Replace) There is no apparent free play or grinding in the front wheel bearings and the front wheel spins freely when the bearing are properly seated and torqued.
- Defective or incorrect tire (Replace) Since I have had the problem with two sets of Michelin Pilot Road 2 tire, I have ruled this out.
- Lose front axle nut (Tighten) I use a torque wrench for all bolts and nuts.
- Loose front axle pinch nut (Tighten) I use a torque wrench for all bolts and nuts.
- Incorrect fork oil level (Adjust) I was meticulous when I rebuilt my forks ensuring that the fork were plumb and that the level was correct with the forks fully compressed.
The reason I asked the spring length question is that my front springs are 0.05" and 0.10" from the service limit of 14.25" in the service manual.
2001 Suzuki Katana 600, Zero Gravity Windscreen, Givi trunk rack and case, 58701 miles.2001 Suzuki Katana 600 ... Bone Stock
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