Fork seal shortcuts..

[Black_peter]

So natually as I'm taking pictures to brag about the "complete"
RatKat.. I notice the fork oil.....

I had already changed out the left seal but avaioded the right
because the screw was stripped and it wasn't leaking,.
So I had to drill out the screw.. Very carefully!!!!!

Anyway, I found a good method for changing the seals...

Once you have everything cleaned and ready to pop in the seal..
Lube the seal up and slide it into place..
Now slide the old seal over it..

You will be able to press the new seal 80% in with your thumbs.
Then wrap a wrench in a rag and tap the old seal down useing the
flat "handle" part of the wrench. The old seal acts as a bumper to protect the new seal. Tap gently and rotate the fork as you tap to drive the seal in evenly.

Check that the clip will fit into place..


Done! and no $60 fork seal tool needed..

[md86]

$60 fork seal tool ? I always heard you cut a peice of pvc pipe about the size of the seal to drive it down with . But what do I know , I've never done forks before .

[ThAzKat]

No need for many expensive tools if you are able to figure out that something as simple as a pvc pipe will work. Great stuff BP!

[Black_peter]

You can get PVC to work..
Though I don't know if it is an off the shelf thing..
I used a modified PVC "nut". I have to say this way is a lot easier. You also know that the new
seal is getting treated like a baby by the old seal..
Niiiice and soooooft.. LOL

Considering I had to drill out the busted screw and I still got the whole job done in 1 hour from first screw to last I'm pretty happy..

[stevnmd]

I changed about 4 sets of fork seals before I bought drivers.

I've used PVC as a driver or the old seal like you did. Works fine.

But, fork seal drivers DO make the job easier, that's for sure.

[Black_peter]

That would be awesome. I'm thinking about doing this myself and would really like to see it done first before attempting it.

Enjoy...

[ame="http://www.vimeo.com/10583706"]Pre 98 Katana Fork disassembly on Vimeo[/ame]

[joedan]

reviving dead threads ftw....
bp how exactly did you deal with the stripped screw?
the drain screw on my pre 600 is stripped and leaking.

[arsenic]

Drill the head off. It's an 8mm bolt so use a 3/8" drill bit. It's hardened steel tough so use a carbide bit. You'll obviously have to replace that bolt. Wait, drain screw? You are talking about the damper rod bolt on the very bottom right?

[joedan]

yes its the drain screw on the bottom facing forward, the bolt is already removed its the hole thats stripped, so nothing to tighten it too.
i was figuring i would have to tap it, but never tapped anything so im nervous about getting shavings in the tube and what size or pitch to go with.

[Kreylyn]

Kat forks (pre anyways I know does) have drain screws.

You need to tap the hole for a larger screw size, or use a thread insert to make it fit the old size.

Krey

[steves]

It's not a drain screw, it holds the damper rods to the bottom of the forks. It just happens that if you remove it, some of the oil will drain out.

[Wild-Bill]

On the pre bikes there is both a drain screw and damper rod bolt. Are you looking at the one that screws in from the end of the fork or from the back side?

If it's the damper bolt (screws in from the end of the fork) you need to hold the damper from rotating inside the fork while you tighten it.

[Kreylyn]

BP clearly points out the drain screw in the vid at around the 3:30 mark...

http://katriders.com/vb/showpost.php?p=1930761&postcount=6

Krey

[joedan]

thanks guys, its the little guy on the side of tube,(pretty sure it faces front) near the bottom. ill try tapping it, thankfully i have a spare set of forks from an 88. but mine are in better cond.

[arsenic]

just helicoil it. You'd be amazed the crap you can fix with thread inserts.