[ctandc]

Please keep us updated if that fixes it - I'm having the same issues w/ both the Kat750 & Kat600 after switching to the (pretty much) same setup you have. I have since mityvac'd an entire bottle of brake fluid thru the bikes with no improvement (and removed the SpeedBleeders, but that didn't do anything either). I've also done all the usual tapping, tilting, etc.

I'll let you know. UPS said it will be here tomorrow. It's an aftermarket stock replacement. I was hesitant on buying until I talked to a buddy of mine who wrenches alot on bikes, and he's used several of 'em through a local supplier. Although I paid $20 less than he has in the past ($59 shipped, brand new part).

[wcj]

$59 shipped, brand new part

I was eyeballing that one too Hope it fixes the problem you're having.

[ctandc]

I was eyeballing that one too Hope it fixes the problem you're having.

Well it's encouraging..I've seen nothing but good Ebay feedback on this part, now I've got someone local who's used 'em, and the company that I bought it from had QUICK shipping. I paid paypal that evening the auction ended, they shipped the next day.

[DumbLuck]

after a fair amount of searching i came up with this thread as i've got pretty much the same problem. was there ever a cure found?

Completely tore down the front calipers, cleaned, new pads, etc. and the lever travel now stinks. used to start braking almost as soon as you started squeezing the lever before the cleaning and new pads. Now the lever pulls a good inch, and braking semi hard (not near a panic stop) it's pretty much up to the knuckles of your finners still on the throttle. pump the lever a few times and lever travel is about half as much before braking. few minues later it's back to the long distance travel.

no change in the lever distance setting made, brakes bled multiple times, havent specificly bled the master cylinder, but when the front end was apart i had ziplock baggies taped over the bottom end of each brake line to catch any drippings, and made sure the MC stayed full with cover on firmly. The MC was never even close to being empty. The first bleeding upon reassembly was with standard bleeders till the calipers were filled, and the bleeders ran fluid with very few, tiny air bubbles. then i switched over to the speed bleeders, and bled the system again till there were NO air bubbles.

Since, i've bled them 3 more times, tied the lever back twice (cover on), and also pumped them up to where the lever builds up to the braking with minimum travel of the lever, and holding pressure "burped" each speedbleeder. No air bubbles, just fluid coming out with each "burp". (bike on side stand). when i've tied the lever back, i've pumped it untill the excess travel was out of the lever, and brakes were firm, then tied the lever back. 12 hours later, no leaks, pressure still up and brakes holding before untying. brake lever has no spongyness for the first few immediate applications of the brakes, but less than 5 minutes later it's back to being spongy with too much travel before any braking action.

[Tmod]

Anybody ever try a power bleeder when they encountered this problem, Make a adapter for the MC reservoir and then connect the bleeder and push the fluid through. You will never run out of fluid as the power bleeder is pressurizing the MC.

Just a suggestion as I have used the mighty vac before with less then spectacular results.

I have the older version of this bleeder and it works nice, Haven't tried it on the Kat yet but when the day comes will just have to give it a try. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

Tmod

[DumbLuck]

i could buy a whole new brake setup complete for the $221.35 they're askin for that thing

[Tmod]

Probably could but you still have to bleed it.

Some people are making them out of those tiny garden sprayers you get at home depot or lowes.

Tmod