Changed rear pads and now seems less effective?

[mharrison]

I changed out my rear pads today. I starting hearing a little scraping and.....you guessed it, metal on metal. It didn't hurt the rotor though.

Now, the brake seems to not as responsive. Before if I braked very hard, the rear wheel would lock. Now, while on a test ride they seemed to be working OK, but when was I really getting on the rears I was only able to get it to lock once.

I know you don't really want the rear locking up, but it seems like the brakes are less effective now.

Any thoughts on this?

[suzukisportrider2004]

it needs broken in, also wipe off the rotor with windex

[BlackKatnWV]

did you bleed it out fully?

[mharrison]

No, I didn't bleed the caliper. Do you need to do that when the system was never opened? I don't really see where changing the pads out would get air in the system. I guess if it doesn't get any better as the pads bed in, I'll be bleeding it....

It's working OK, there's no danger, but it could be better!

[Sasquatch]

Im not sure about the bleeding, but you need to break the pads in.

If I remember right ( I just changed my rear pads the day before I left for the Rally), it says to break them in with city riding speeds (about 100 miles total).

I could be wrong on the millage, but not on the city speeds (not highway speeds).

[awsnap]

EBC says to ride 100 or 200 miles with minimal braking them bed them in with a pass or two from 60-20 hard braking to get them really hot, then let them cool without stopping for an extended period of time (don't warp rotor). Let them fully cool, then do again.

[crazyboy68]

if u do not open the break system ie the master cylinder and bleed valves or take your lines off there should be no need to bleed the lines

[katman05]

Try cleaning the rotors with brake cleaner and a scotchbrite pad, you have a 2005, so if you haven't changed the brake fluid yet, you are due.