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Changing carburation back to stock

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  • Changing carburation back to stock

    Hi everyone
    Last year I installed a stage 1 dynojet kit in my 94/750 and a k&n air filter to go with it. I have had trouble getting the jetting right and want to just put the stock jets and needles back in. Anyone who has used the dynojet brand jet kit are familiar with those two white plastic threads that you have to tap two holes for and thread into the carb piston valves.

    Question: what do those two white plastic threads do? and can you go back to the stock needles and jets with those threads still in the piston valves without screwing anything up?

    Appreciate all feedback!
    "Do not look to deeply into anything I say, I'm a very shallow person."

  • #2
    What prompted the jet change in the first place?

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    • #3
      need I remind you that DynoJet sucks large farm animals

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      • #4
        Well that's good to know now! Why jet change? more power of course. I'm breaking in newly honed cylenders and don't want to mess with carburation and risk glazing the cylinders
        "Do not look to deeply into anything I say, I'm a very shallow person."

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        • #5
          You did say that when I put mine in. But I can honestly say I had no trouble. That was a simple install. What about your exhaust. Did you go after market or stay stock.
          Last edited by Kfreak; 12-01-2007, 04:15 PM.

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          • #6
            did you go with the K&N air filter or stock?

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            • #7
              I do remember reading in the instructions you can take one of the white plugs out for heavy street riding. Meaning you are out burning off the rear tire. It should run with them removed. Just undo what you did. But I see the concern for the cylinders.

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              • #8
                what those little white things you are talking about i think are called air compensators(maybe i'm just making that up). They are something like that, you are suppose to drill the two little holes that are on either side of the slide where the needle pokes through and tap it with supplied tap and insert. Yes take one out will cause the slide to open faster providing a rich environment(i'm guessing).

                Anyways, I had a '92 kat 750 and i definately feel your pain in the jetting department, I was buying new set of plugs every week. I'll list my setup and it worked well for me, never gave me an issue, just had a little lean on the idle circuit sometimes, but using the choke always got it alive when starting from cold.

                '92 750
                k&n filter pods (dual pods)
                full vance and hines ss2r system
                dynojet jet kit
                • 130 mains or 126 (can't fully remember, been to long, ill try to find old posts)
                • "E" clip on the 3rd clip down (little washer UNDER the "e" clip giving it essentially a 3.5)
                • Both Air compensators in the slides
                • Pilot screws out 2.5 to 3 turns out
                • Float levels at stock height(thinking 14.5mm dont' quote me on that)
                Now you have to remember that those specs listed above will do you as much good as **** on a boar hog if you don't have carbs in good shape. I had worn emulsion tubes and had to have my needles on the top clip just to get it not to run to rich, got new ones and down to 3 they went. Also worn emulsion tubes will ruin your needles. Also check your needle valve and also check the little plugs that plug the pilot circuit(they are held in by the float assembly, but should hold their self in). Check all orings and make sure no tares in the diaphrams on the slides.

                also sync your carbs, helped my bike alot, i personally recommend the morgan carb tune.

                “Programming today is a race between software engineers stirring to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the universe is winning.”

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                • #9
                  Thanks for the input. Out of curousity what would cause the emulsion tubes to go bad?? If i'm thinking of the right part, it is what houses the needle jet right?
                  "Do not look to deeply into anything I say, I'm a very shallow person."

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                  • #10
                    Wear. Vibration from the needle, dirty gas is almost like a sandblaster in there.

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                    • #11
                      went ahead and kept the dynojet kit in and jetted it a little lean. The reputable machinest who worked on my cylenders said never run a new engine rich.
                      "Do not look to deeply into anything I say, I'm a very shallow person."

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                      • #12
                        and dynojet makes their kits rich, so no one is burning up engines.

                        “Programming today is a race between software engineers stirring to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the universe is winning.”

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                        • #13
                          If you're keeping the aftermarket set-up, the best solution would be to run the whole thing over a dynometer with an exhaust gas analyzer (EGA), so you can hit all your jetting spot-on in the first couple runs (provided the jets/needles you have are capable of that). Call around to the shops in your area to see who charges what and to make sure they have the EGA on their dyno's (some older dyno's shipped without them); make sure you tell them your fairings will be off and you'll have the other jets that came in the kit (it should drive the price down).

                          Cheers,
                          =-= The CyberPoet
                          Remember The CyberPoet

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