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01 Katana Jet Kit problems

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  • 01 Katana Jet Kit problems

    Well so far I have added a D&D Slip on system with a scorpion muffler since I got them both for far less than either one. I took the stock 600 HEaders off and cleaned out those weld seams and used calipers to evenly match them. I replaced the filter with a K&N and have the large taper ring in there. Home made ignition advancer with around 4-5 degrees advance if the 1mm method is correct. Dynojet Jet Kit with the 120 Mains, 3 turns out, and needles on #3 groove from the top as instructed by Dynojet techs. However now the bike is rich as can be. I can smell it when running slow and its hard to get it to idle exactly right. Does anyone else have a similar setup to this? What jets did you go with? Do you think I should drop back down to the 116's. I had the individual pod filters on there and got it really close to being right with some velocity stack adapters between the carbs and filters but it was still lean with the largest jets. Now with the K&N in the stock air box it is way rich. Is it just a matter of turning the idle screws underneath or maybe a combination of smaller jets and adjusting those. I know my gas mileage has gone from getting 170-180 miles per tank before reserve to barely 110 and dipping into the reserve some. I think just putting the smaller jets back in will help everything but please someone with some better insight that has done close to the same thing help me out. Thanks ~Heath

  • #2
    yeah put the 116's in the carbs dyno jet is famous for going over rich on their kits in my exp i guess they would rather go rich then lean and have people poping motors

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    • #3
      Re: 01 Katana Jet Kit problems

      Originally posted by 01Katman
      Well so far I have added a D&D Slip on system with a scorpion muffler
      i assume you mean a mid pipe & slip-on.

      the 120's are for a full aftermarket header - go back to the 116's.
      if you have a little hesitation going off idle cut the STOCK slide springs down 1" ( don't use the dyno slide springs ).

      idle - you have to describe what it's doing ( we'll assumme you re-sync'd the carbs after 'adjusting the stock header' )

      tim

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      • #4
        yes the carbs we're resynched after teh header fix, i wasn't going to use the dyno slide springs i had found another post and followed your install instruction on cybers web site, yes it is a full slip on midpipe and muffler, but its a D&D midpipe and a scorpion muffler. The idle just wants to hang if you rev it a little it hangs then slowly drops back down to where it is set. I guess thus the hesitation off idle take off. Thanks for the quick answers guys. But I will put the 116's back in and try that then if i have off idle probs still i will cut the springs 1" i have a dial caliper so they will all be accurate. Thanks guys ~Heath

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        • #5
          the 'hanging' of the idle is your fuel mixture screw - back it out another 1/2 turn. ( so 3.5 turns out ) if that isn't enough try 4 turns out.

          the off idle problem: when you ride around 2-3k rpms you can tell it takes a second to respond to a handfull of throttle.

          tim

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          • #6
            I have mine at 3.5 turns out and it idles great. Tim, how would you resolve a hesitatino at 2-3K rpms?

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            • #7
              Originally posted by kickitjp
              I have mine at 3.5 turns out and it idles great. Tim, how would you resolve a hesitatino at 2-3K rpms?
              cutting down the slide springs. that way it takes a little less vacuum to lift the needle.

              ivan @ http://www.ivansperformanceproducts.com
              suggested this for his kits, after going around & around with different
              pilot jets & setting i could never tune out that lean spot. i then cut the spring and it's amazing - perfect throttle response.

              tim

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              • #8
                Interesting...I'm gonna try that...other than that slight hes. my throttle response is really good

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                • #9
                  on a 4" spring he suggest cutting 1/3 but i just cut 1" off mine

                  tim

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by kickitjp
                    Interesting...I'm gonna try that...other than that slight hes. my throttle response is really good
                    If you're running the DynoJet springs, stick the OEM springs back in. The DynoJet springs are stiffer than OEM, and the OEM will let the slides raise faster as a result. The hestitation off idle relates directly to how fast the slides rise in response to the change in vacuum.
                    If, after making that change, you still want to cut them down, go for it

                    Cheers,
                    =-= The CyberPoet
                    Remember The CyberPoet

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                    • #11
                      thats what i am talking about on the stumbling, when cruising at around 3k rpm you give it full throttle and it blips then clears out. But this is with the 120's in i'll be putting in the 116's tonight and cutting down that spring tomorrow if it doesn't run right on my trips to school. Thanks ~Heath

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                      • #12
                        I just went through this lastnight with mine...
                        The DJ springs were binding (coiling up under the cap) never seen that before, put the stockers back in and viola, problem solved.

                        What do you guys think about this:

                        I have 32.5 pj's in mine now, af screws 3 turns out, reading above about another 1/2 turn out, why can't I just stick 35's in and tune for them?

                        From what I undertsand the `idle not settling back down` is from the pj's being too small.. why i have 35's on the bench.

                        Also (bike info) this is my wife's Katana 1100, K&N filter, Yoshimura R&D ss/ Carbon fiber exhaust system, & DJ Jet kit.

                        Peace,
                        Ron
                        "You're only Limited, by Your own mind..."
                        "FrankenTana" 1989 GSX1100F w/ 93 GSXR water cooled motor installed and causing smiles from ear to ear.
                        click video link to see the bike http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75Z-AY0g9Aw

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Busafied
                          I just went through this lastnight with mine...
                          The DJ springs were binding (coiling up under the cap) never seen that before, put the stockers back in and viola, problem solved.

                          What do you guys think about this:

                          I have 32.5 pj's in mine now, af screws 3 turns out, reading above about another 1/2 turn out, why can't I just stick 35's in and tune for them?

                          From what I undertsand the `idle not settling back down` is from the pj's being too small.. why i have 35's on the bench.

                          Also (bike info) this is my wife's Katana 1100, K&N filter, Yoshimura R&D ss/ Carbon fiber exhaust system, & DJ Jet kit.

                          Peace,
                          Ron

                          i think the rule of thumb is that for every step up in pilot jet = 1.5 turns of the air/fuel screw.

                          tim

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            alrighty kewl, will give her a go tomm.

                            Rode it to work today, and she was running like a raped ape might just leave it as is for now.

                            peace,
                            Ron
                            "You're only Limited, by Your own mind..."
                            "FrankenTana" 1989 GSX1100F w/ 93 GSXR water cooled motor installed and causing smiles from ear to ear.
                            click video link to see the bike http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=75Z-AY0g9Aw

                            Comment

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