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Frame sliders...

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  • Frame sliders...

    So I posted this in the for sale area in response to another thread I thought I would throw it out here and see what you guys think. I can produce sliders at a fraction of the cost of what you can get them for on Ebay (well the bracket anyway) which I think is $75 and up. Since I don't happen to have my Kat yet I need some drawings to figure this out. I have a mill and lathe that have just been sitting I think this would be a great excuse to pull them out. Also the issue of dissimilar metals causing corrosion was brough up, well the simple solution would be to anodize the part (anodized coating does not conduct electricity) yet another one of my abilities. I attached some of my anodizing work so you guys can see what I am able to do. Let me know what you think. All the parts shown below are anodized, not painted.
    Attached Files

  • #2
    What you need are measurements for the frame, clearance points for the fairings and engine...and that should be it. It's going to be hard to make these properly without a Kat to actually test fit them on.
    Pain is just weakness leaving the body.
    -Unknown Author

    The quarrels of lovers are the renewal of love.
    -Terence

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    • #3
      Im sure you can find a test guinea pig around here somewhere

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      • #4
        Well there are at least two riders up in Portland which is only about an hour away... I am sure they would be willing to make the trip for a free set of sliders

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        • #5
          I know alot of us would by them.
          1998 Katana green Wileyco pipe,K&N filter,Pilot powers.

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          • #6
            Yep, if they come out nice, I'd certainly buy. :P

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            • #7
              Of course this comes back to the Jax issue. I despise people with a mill and lathe. Makes me feel inadequate or something.
              Pain is just weakness leaving the body.
              -Unknown Author

              The quarrels of lovers are the renewal of love.
              -Terence

              Comment


              • #8
                I'd take a set!
                92 Katana 600, Full Jardine Exhaust.

                Welcome to Florida, 11 Curves in 318 Miles

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                • #9
                  frame sliders for a '91 Kat 600

                  Can you make them for my '91 Kat 600? I asked around in the past, and I was told that they don't make them for this bike because there aren't any good attachment points. If not, where can I get them?

                  Frank
                  [EDIT: email address deleted]
                  "Security is mostly a superstition. It does not exist in nature, nor do the children of men as a whole experience it. Avoiding danger is not safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure, or nothing."
                  ~ Helen Keller, The Open Door (1927)
                  '91 600 purchased in January 2000 with 7,707 miles

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by brooder
                    Of course this comes back to the Jax issue. I despise people with a mill and lathe. Makes me feel inadequate or something.
                    Then you are really going to hate me because I have a whole machine shop to my disposal... ...also my dad is a die/tool maker sheet metal mechanic , with over 40 years experience, so I have metal "expert" at my disposal...of course I do get tired of being called stupid with a slap to the back of the head by a 5'1" Italian father....but I guess that's the trade off ...
                    Good judgement comes from experience, and often experience comes from Bad Judgement :smt084
                    Help Support Katriders.com via Motorcyclegear.com
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                    nah nah nah nah nah nah JAX! (special thnx to sexwax)

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                    • #11
                      I will take a set when they are proven.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Jax
                        ...of course I do get tired of being called stupid with a slap to the back of the head by a 5'1" Italian father....but I guess that's the trade off ...
                        At least your father is only 5'1". My Italian father is 5'8", built like a brick shithouse and was an amateur boxer to boot. However, he only smacked me because he loved me. Boy, did he ever love me alot!

                        "The secret to life is to keep your mind full and your bowels empty. Unfortunately, the converse is true for most people."

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I'm not sure that anodizing would give you the benefit you seek in terms of corrosion resistance -- I'd think the real problem would be abrassion-related corrosion at the frame junction. A thick powdercoat or integration of some sort of rubber on the inside should correct that though...

                          Meanwhile, I'm kind of waiting to hear what Jason05 has to say about how his bike faired in the last wreck -- the last time he went down, he had sliders in place (but no fairings on) -- now his frame is bent up against the engine (the fairings were out getting painted). And thus we come back to the infamous Katana slider problem: at speed, sliders tend to compromise the frame (they work great in low-speed spills, but not in 25+ mph speed spills). I'm still looking for someone to come up with a solution that reinforces the frame across a longer section, or has a break-away bolt designed to shear away the slider flush with the surface of the fairing or slightly lower when impacted with significant lateral stress.

                          Cheers
                          =-= The CyberPoet
                          Remember The CyberPoet

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by The CyberPoet
                            I'm not sure that anodizing would give you the benefit you seek in terms of corrosion resistance -- I'd think the real problem would be abrassion-related corrosion at the frame junction. A thick powdercoat or integration of some sort of rubber on the inside should correct that though...

                            Meanwhile, I'm kind of waiting to hear what Jason05 has to say about how his bike faired in the last wreck -- the last time he went down, he had sliders in place (but no fairings on) -- now his frame is bent up against the engine (the fairings were out getting painted). And thus we come back to the infamous Katana slider problem: at speed, sliders tend to compromise the frame (they work great in low-speed spills, but not in 25+ mph speed spills). I'm still looking for someone to come up with a solution that reinforces the frame across a longer section, or has a break-away bolt designed to shear away the slider flush with the surface of the fairing or slightly lower when impacted with significant lateral stress.

                            Cheers
                            =-= The CyberPoet
                            Cyber:
                            You seem to know about this stuff more than anyone here. Why can't you design it, and then give the design to maxxheadroom to fabricate it?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by The CyberPoet
                              I'm not sure that anodizing would give you the benefit you seek in terms of corrosion resistance -- I'd think the real problem would be abrassion-related corrosion at the frame junction. A thick powdercoat or integration of some sort of rubber on the inside should correct that though...


                              Cheers
                              =-= The CyberPoet
                              We use a mix of aluminum, and steel all the time here at work (automotive checking fixtures). Anodizing the aluminum, with a black oxide finish on the steel provides very effective corosion resistance. I don't imply I know how or why this works, I just know it does. And it works very well against abrasion too (think disgruntled emplyees slaming stamped steel parts on and off our fixtures all day long).

                              The bracket idea is a good one. However, when it was posted the first thing I thought of was isolating the braket from the frame via 1/8" piece of rubber or neoprene. Kinda like a flex mount. Provides a little give, but backed up with a solid backbone. And it gets away from disimilar metals.

                              If I were to go the bracket route on my kat, I'd make the bracket steel, and use UHMW for the slider. But personally I don't even like the looks of sliders, so I wouldn't even put them on.

                              Wish I had a cad model of a kat frame. I'd play around with FEA. Havn't done it since college, doubt I'd even remember anything

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