[WildKat]

The filter cap is a very handy device to have..trying to get the filter off while reaching through the header pipes is a royal pain in the arse. Either using a K&N filter or using a cap is easiest way to do it. Without you can end up resorting to smashing a screw driver thru it just to get it off sometimes

[md86]

Leather wok gloves so you don't burn the hands .

[brooder]

Yeah...that's not the cap I have. The one I have is metal, but it's missing the hex part. I may have to order one as well as plugs. I'm sure those are do for a change as well.

[FloridaKat]

Just a quick chime in here. How tight is the filter cap supposed to be?

On 98+, the OEM filter is supposed to be tightened 2 revolutions from finger snug (per the service manual).

[WildKat]

And dont forget to run the engine for about a minute, after you put in the oil in, because it will settle and you may need to add another 1/4-1/2 quart to make sure there is enough. Be careful not to overfill with too much oil, use the site glass on the engine cover as your guide.

[tzortn]

This is still my weapon of choice for removing a filter on the Kat. It will work with any filter. I used it for both my Kat and my mower. I picked mine up at Pep Boys for $5.

[brooder]

Just a quick chime in here. How tight is the filter cap supposed to be?

On 98+, the OEM filter is supposed to be tightened 2 revolutions from finger snug (per the service manual).

Filter cap, not filter. I can't even get the filter off with the cap. Of course, after I had everything put back together I found both of my other filter wreches...it would figure...

[FloridaKat]

Just a quick chime in here. How tight is the filter cap supposed to be?

On 98+, the OEM filter is supposed to be tightened 2 revolutions from finger snug (per the service manual).

Filter cap, not filter. I can't even get the filter off with the cap. Of course, after I had everything put back together I found both of my other filter wreches...it would figure...

My OEM filter cap has neglible movement with an OEM filter. I'm not sure how to measure "tightness" from the cap to the filter itself.

There's always the screwdriver method. Joking...don't do that.

[brooder]

I've done the screwdriver method on a car...almost didn't get the filter off after finding out that the screwdriver didn't clear some parts.

I'm going to change the oil again here shortly anyway. I'd put 1000 miles on that oil since I bought it last July and I have no idea when the previous change was done before that. I figure it won't hurt to do it again.

[FloridaKat]

A great suggestion from CP is to drop the oil pan and inspect/clean the metal shavings. I neglected to do this for my first two oil changes, but I'm definitely going to do it on the next one.

Does anyone know if there is a magnetic pick-up inside the oil pan?

I see on the microfiche there is a strainer ($5.95) RonAyers part #16520-09301. Does this get cleaned/replaced?

Also, would it be advisable to get the pan gasket ($7.95) RonAyers part # 11489-27A21 (assuming there are no current leaks)?

Sorry to deviate from the original thread......

[The CyberPoet]

Just a quick chime in here. How tight is the filter cap supposed to be?

I'd expect it to be less than 1mm of slop, and definitely not enough to slip, if you have the right cap for that particular filter. Note that off-brand filters often have different sizes and cap shapes, so the OEM cap may not fit it. That's one of the perks of using either the OEM solution all the time (you know it will fit right) or going to the K&N that MD86 & WildKat love so much because of the square nut on the tip. Personally, I still have a cheap (under $2) 20-year-old JC Whitney chain-wrench tool that I use to remove stubborn filters that aren't OEM.

A great suggestion from CP is to drop the oil pan and inspect/clean the metal shavings. Does anyone know if there is a magnetic pick-up inside the oil pan?
I see on the microfiche there is a strainer ($5.95) RonAyers part #16520-09301. Does this get cleaned/replaced?

Also, would it be advisable to get the pan gasket ($7.95) RonAyers part # 11489-27A21 (assuming there are no current leaks)?

(A) The magnetic pick-up is in the OEM oil drain bolt's head. The one downside to going to the Fumoto valve is that you give that up.
(B) No, you don't need to replace that strainer. You can clean it if you find you need to (it's basically a metal mesh screen), but I've always found it to be generally clean in newer bikes.
(C) I haven't needed a new oil pan gasket yet for an oil pan I took off myself (not true for pans I've gotten off ebay when I was doing my testing for the oil temp sensors & best place to drill), but it's a wise thing to have handy if you need it. I'd order one and have it on the shelf if you need it -- if you don't need it, someone inevitably will in the future.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[WildKat]

I've done the screwdriver method on a car...almost didn't get the filter off after finding out that the screwdriver didn't clear some parts.

I'm going to change the oil again here shortly anyway. I'd put 1000 miles on that oil since I bought it last July and I have no idea when the previous change was done before that. I figure it won't hurt to do it again.

Never hurts to do it again.. Good call. Especially since you dont know when it was done last. A couple extra changes to help get as much fresh clean oil into the engine can only help.

[Jax]

Talking about oil changes a friend sent me this:
Oil Change instructions for women:

1) Pull up to Jiffy Lube when the mileage reaches 3000 miles since the last oil change.
2) Drink a cup of coffee.
3) 15 minutes later, write a check and leave with a properly maintained vehicle.

Money spent:
Oil Change $20.00
Coffee $1.00
Total $21.00

Oil Change instructions for men:
1) Wait until Saturday, drive to Auto Zone parts store and buy a case of oil, filter, kitty litter, hand cleaner and a scented tree, write a check for $50.00.
2) Stop by 7 - 11 and buy a case of beer, write a check for $20, drive home.
3) Open a beer and drink it.
4) Jack car up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack stands.
5) Find jack stands under kid's pedal car.
6) In frustration, open another beer and drink it.
7) Place drain pan under engine.
8 ) Look for 9/16 box end wrench.
9) Give up and use crescent wrench.
10) Unscrew drain plug.
11) Drop drain plug in pan of hot oil: splash hot oil on you in process. Cuss.
12) Crawl out from under car to wipe hot oil off of face and arms. Throw kitty litter on spilled oil.
13) Have another beer while watching oil drain.
14) Spend 30 minutes looking for oil filter wrench.
15) Give up; crawl under car and hammer a screwdriver through oil filter and twist off.
16) Crawl out from under car with dripping oil filter splashing oil everywhere from holes. Cleverly hide old oil filter among trash in trash can to avoid environmental penalties. Drink a beer.
17) Buddy shows up; finish case of beer with him.
Decide to finish oil change tomorrow so you can go see his new garage door opener.
18 ) Sunday: Skip church because "I gotta finish the oil change." Drag pan full of old oil out from underneath car. Cleverly dump oil in hole in back yard instead of taking it back to service station to recycle.
19) Throw kitty litter on oil spilled during step 18.
20) Beer? No, drank it all yesterday.
21) Walk to 7-11; buy beer.
22) Install new oil filter making sure to apply a thin coat of oil to gasket surface, be sure filter is full of oil.
23) Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine.
24) Remember drain plug from step 11.
25) Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan.
26) Remember that the used oil is buried in a hole in the back yard, along with drain plug.
27) Drink beer.
28 ) Shovel out hole and sift oily mud for drain plug.
Re-shovel oily dirt into hole. Steal sand from kids sandbox to cleverly cover oily patch of ground and avoid environmental penalties. Wash drain plug in lawnmower gas.
29) Discover that first quart of fresh oil is now on the floor. Throw kitty litter on oil spill.
30) Drink beer.
31) Crawl under car getting kitty litter into eyes.
Wipe eyes with oily rag used to clean drain plug. Slip with stupid crescent wrench tightening drain plug and bang knuckles on frame.
32) Bang head on floorboards in reaction to step 31.
33) Begin cussing fit.
34) Throw stupid crescent wrench.
35) Cuss for additional 10 minutes because wrench hit bowling trophy.
36) Beer.
37) Clean up hands and forehead and bandage as required to stop blood flow.
38 ) Beer.
39) Beer.
40) Dump in five fresh quarts of oil.
41) Beer.
42) Lower car from jack stands.
43) Accidentally crush remaining case of new motor oil.
44) Move car back to apply more kitty litter to fresh oil spilled during steps 23 - 43.
45) Beer.
46) Test drive car.
47) Get pulled over: arrested for driving under the influence.
48 ) Car gets impounded.
49) Call loving wife, make bail
50) 12 hours later, get car from impound yard.

Money spent:
Parts $50.00
DUI $2500.00
Impound fee $75.00
Bail $1500.00
Beer $40.00
Total - - $4,165.00

But you know the job was done right!

[The CyberPoet]

Talking about oil changes a friend sent me this...

So true, too!

The fumoto drain valve has made a lot of that a thing of the past though (have it on the Audi and on the Kat... I can't remember if I put one on the Ninja yet -- the GF's bike).

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[WildKat]

A coworker sent me this not too long ago Im not sure what is more funny, the actual thought that somebody came up with this or the thought of how true it really is