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idle problem

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  • idle problem

    1. Ok heres the thing the carbs are cleaned and snyced. heres really what i dont understand if i get it to idle at 1100 the bike will die within 1minute??

    2. And another thing is when you snyc your carbs does it matter what numbers its reading of the gauges??? cause mine where at 6 and i was idling at 2k??

    3. And the bike is stock but i dunno about the mufflers..helps me plz i cant ride the bike longer then 10mins without it acting up

  • #2
    Ok, first of, the reading of the gauges don't matter. It could be 6, 8, 68 etc. just make sure they are all even.

    Second, and more importantly, when you reconnected everything, did you connect the vacuum line from carb #4 (furtherest to the right, throttle side) back to the fuel petcock?

    If not, then you need to do that or fuel will not flow from the tank if the switch is in the "ON" or "RES" position. My guess is you probably didn't connect that line back and you are just using fuel that was in the bowl, which is why it would die after a minute or so.

    And what do you mean by "acting up"??

    The more specific you are with your problems, the more useful help you are likely to get.
    Florida, the only place where you need your windshield wipers and sunglasses. At the same time.

    05/02 1216 Kabandit
    18v Rigid Drill
    Craftsman Rubber Mallet with duct tape mod
    New Balance 765 running shoes from 10th Grade, with duct tape and super glue mod

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    • #3
      The first thing I would suggest is run it on the prime position to see if it still acts up.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by reconstyle
        Second, and more importantly, when you reconnected everything, did you connect the vacuum line from carb #4 (furtherest to the right, throttle side) back to the fuel petcock?
        A common mistake.....

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        • #5
          yes everything is where its supposed to be. this sucks and i dont wanna pay some dealership $350

          Updated ok well now i got the airbox off and the bike idles perfect hasn't died out left it running from 10min, but if i put the airbox on bike runs like crap again! any ideas??

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          • #6
            Too rich maybe?
            What do the plugs look like?

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            • #7
              Way too rich in the pilot circuit if it idles well sans the airbox but runs like crap with it. Turn down the pilot screws.

              Cheers,
              =-= The CyberPoet
              Remember The CyberPoet

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              • #8
                Or the filter needs changed . Take it out and see what it looks/smells like , wipe out the inside of the box , pull the cap at the end of the hose , and report back .....
                I am a fluffy lil cuddly lovable bunny , dammit !



                Katrider's rally 2011 - md86

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                • #9
                  the plugs i replaced 2 weeks ago with stock ngk..Airfilter looks gheyish smells abit like oil...

                  Does anyone know if it matters what numbers the carbs are at when they are synced?

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                  • #10
                    Numbers aren't relevant; the important part is that each pulls the same amount.

                    Cheers,
                    =-= The CyberPoet
                    Remember The CyberPoet

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                    • #11
                      k thx, anyways i got the bike running alot better now, but i have one problem after riding the bike for like 20mins if i shutoff the bike and try to restart it to seems like the battery is dead wont start..If i wait like 5mins and try again the bike will startup anyone know what that problem is??

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                      • #12
                        Sounds like the battery is way too weak and borderline dead, or the charging system isn't working properly.

                        Battery draining while riding (too much draw for charge rate), and then it "chemically" regroups during the break. If this is the case, it'll be DOA for good shortly.

                        Testing the battery:

                        (1) Static test: bike off, check the voltage between the battery terminals. Needs to be 12.65 volts or higher. If below 12.6 volts, charge the battery fully via a battery charger (see item 3).

                        (2) Active charging tests:
                        (2A) With the engine running at idle, check the voltage between the battery terminals; needs to be at least 13.2 volts (& below 15 volts).
                        (2B) Repeat at 5k RPM; needs to still be above 13.2 volts and below 15 volts.

                        (3) Battery charge-hold test:
                        (3A) remove the battery from the bike, charge fully using a battery charger, then measure the voltage between the battery terminals (needs to be higher than 12.7 volts; 12.9 - 13.2 is optimal) and write down the voltage. If below 12.7 volts fully charged, battery is toast. Replace.
                        (3B) Leave battery out unattached to anything (no charger, no bike) and remeasure 12 hours later -- if the reading went down at all, battery is defective and needs to be replaced.

                        More info: CyberPoet's Motorcycle Battery and Charging System testing & diagnostics

                        Cheers,
                        =-= The CyberPoet
                        Remember The CyberPoet

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                        • #13
                          thanks for the reply, i'll check into it...btw cant i check it like a car by disconnecting the battery and if the bike dies then its the charging system??

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by HyperC
                            thanks for the reply, i'll check into it...btw cant i check it like a car by disconnecting the battery and if the bike dies then its the charging system??
                            You could, but just as on most cars with electronic controls of any sort, you shouldn't ever do that. Good way to ruin the charging system.

                            Cheers,
                            =-= The CyberPoet
                            Remember The CyberPoet

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                            • #15
                              well if the bike will eventually start after like five minutes sounds like it is flooded.... if the battery is too low you shouldnt be able to start it even if it is after waiting 5 minutes.

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