[BarMatt80]

I'd almost rather have another inch of tire left when metal is scraping than have zero tire left. That way just a bit more tire there just incase, but i fully understand and support you on buying the correct tire for the correct rim.

[teddy]

It's nice to see the pictures of just exactly how much wider is NOT better for these bikes. Thanks fellas.

[loudnlow7484]

The easy answer, of course, is to just use a tire on the size wheel it is recommended for. For example- one manufacturer may say that their 160 is supposed to fit a 3.5" rim, while the rest recommend a 4.5" rim. One may say their 240 should go on a 2" bicycle wheel. Whatever the case, they designed the tire, so I'm willing to bet they can make a good call what wheel it should be put on. Generally speaking, I think you'll find that most (if not all) manufacturers will only recommend a 150 as the largest size rear on a 3.5" rim. A lot of R&D hours likely went into designing the precise profile of any of these tires.... it would be a shame to muck it all up by cramming it onto too small a wheel.

Guess its time to fab some new peg brackets and move those babies up! If I still have room to go on the rear, I need to use it! But I promise I did take it to the edge on the rear the other day. Thought I was gone, but she stuck through my relentless beating and hammering the throttle. I drug the pegs, but I did eat off the little rubber thingies on the edge of the rear tire. It'll go, the kat is just doesn't want to go hard in the corners. I had to push it with everything I had (mainly b/c there was an oncoming car!).

But I guess I have to agree at some point in this. The factory size is best for anything. You wouldn't buy magnum xl's for a 2 incher, right? Just wasn't made for it.

Just moving the pegs wouldn't do it. To get to the edge of that tire (based on your pictures, and personal experience as I used to ride a pre with a 160 Dunlop 208 on it), you would have to scrape your frame/bar ends.

[Kreylyn]

I have an 06 600, which I've put a 160/60 onto the rear. I've noticed that the strips left on the sides are about an inch, whereas the old 150 touring profile tire I'd gotten down to less than .5". I wonder if I'll eventually scrape the pegs before I get to the edge of the tire.

Lean the bike over to just touching a peg and see how much is left... Simple way to tell right there. Might want to get a friend to help with that...

But speaking of tires, I see people saying that putting a 160/60 even on the 4.5" post wheel 'deforms' the tire and decreases the contact patch. However, some tires naturally have a taller profile intentionally. The claim then is that when the bike is leaned over, the contact patch becomes larger, which seems to make sense. So I have to wonder, which is true? Putting a 160 tire on the rear might very well decrease the contact patch while going straight, but wouldn't that increase the contact patch for when leaned over?

Well, most of that is actually incorrect. The 4.5 rim will fit a 150-160 just fine without problems. A 170 is too much.

The deformation of the tire is highest towards the edges, or in your lean. The difference in the curvature in the center of the tire is minimal, but still there. I'm gonna post a pic from previous in this thread again for a quick visual.



This doesn't show the in between sizes, but you can see how the deformation changes in severity as you get closer to the edges of the rim.

• The tire is higher profile than nessasary because it's pushed up.
• The overall curvature is more severe.
• The curvature greatly increases as you near the edge
• The edges are curled over at an angle the bike would never be able to use.
• Tire "left over" at the edge your bike can't possible put on the ground ever, even sliding down the road on it's side does you no good!
• The more curvature, the less the tire contact patch = less traction in turning, braking, and acceleration.

Now lets look at a good lean angle, and the entire purpose of getting your but off the seat when riding... why does this help things...



At full lean your looking at your bike having approximately a 45-50 degree actual lean. Going over further is going to mean your scraping hard parts hard enough your lifting off the tire, and in part is the reason for many lowsides. It's also in part why many riders use the knee to "guage" their angle/lean as it will give a little, and they can adjust before it's too late.

Lets look back at the tire deformation picture with the 45 degree angle put on it...



Now we can see a few things...


Your not fully at the edge of the tire
The contact point is actually larger for better traction using the right size
There is a whole lot of wasted rubber in that blue section that could never ever possible see road.

Given the power of the 600, I'd opt for the larger patch while leaned over, cause I'm not very likely to accidentally do a burnout or spin the rear.

Again though, I'm honestly asking. I still have less than a year experience.

Then stick with not going over the recomeneded sizes... That is what your wanting.

I'd almost rather have another inch of tire left when metal is scraping than have zero tire left. That way just a bit more tire there just incase, but i fully understand and support you on buying the correct tire for the correct rim.

I can understand the thought process behind this... having "a little more to go" for those oops moments. The thing is, you DO have more to go on the stock sizes, and .... you will have a larger contact patch on the pavement to further ensure your gonna stick instead of loosing grip.

So yes, I agree with your comment... but as the pictures show above... its the stock size that is gonna fit best for this as well.

The easy answer, of course, is to just use a tire on the size wheel it is recommended for. For example- one manufacturer may say that their 160 is supposed to fit a 3.5" rim, while the rest recommend a 4.5" rim. One may say their 240 should go on a 2" bicycle wheel. Whatever the case, they designed the tire, so I'm willing to bet they can make a good call what wheel it should be put on. Generally speaking, I think you'll find that most (if not all) manufacturers will only recommend a 150 as the largest size rear on a 3.5" rim. A lot of R&D hours likely went into designing the precise profile of any of these tires.... it would be a shame to muck it all up by cramming it onto too small a wheel.



Just moving the pegs wouldn't do it. To get to the edge of that tire (based on your pictures, and personal experience as I used to ride a pre with a 160 Dunlop 208 on it), you would have to scrape your frame/bar ends.

I have to agree 100% with this. The tire makers design them to work, and focus on making them work the best. I think we can trust they have a good idea of what works well and what does not, and that they have done alot of actually testing on the track, and real world for these tires size fitments.

Krey