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So, I posted earlier that I kept blowing the fuse, 2 times in 600 miles. Tore apart wire loom from both headlight and switch to look for bad wires, cleaned all the switch contacts, cleaned the battery contacts, put on dielectric, the whole deal. I put it all back together, buttoned it all up... The light works fine. Tested voltages just to be sure (at the light plug). It's around 12.6v on both low and high, and peaks at 12.8 when I turn on power/switch from high to low. 2 hours later I go back out to the bike, turn it on, high beam is dead, low beam works. Switch from high to low again, and the low beam goes dead. So, I checked the voltages again, everything is fine. After a complete moment of insanity (didn't realise they were H4's, thought I had to replace the whole lamp, don't ask, it's been a long weekend). I pull out the lamp, and it's a H4 12v 100/90W P43T. Now I read on the posts here, that it should be a 60/55w? So, am I missing something that's blowing the fuse/bulb, or is the 100/90W suspect? It's a 96 750 if that helps any. Thanks in advance
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wow, that may very well be the culprit. i can't remember if it's a 55/65 or 55/60. either way, go to a autoparts store and pick up a slyvania silverstar in either the h4 or the 9003. both will work just fine.
Long Live the D -
Thank you, I'll run to the store this morning. ZukiFred said 55/60. Hopefully this will clear up the rogue fuse blowing pita
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keep us updated...
Long Live the DComment
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I put in new headlight and have put about 100 miles on it. So far so good. Only problem is that I'm so darn paranoid about not having a headlight, I have to keep checking it I suppose that's not a bad habit to get into. Thanks all, If it fails again, I'll give yall a holler
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im not sure about blowing the fuses but i do know that when i uped the wattage in the headlights to my car the increased temperature started to melt the housing. so be careful when you chage the stock bulbs to higher watts.Comment
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It was the wattage draw. The stock system is designed to handle 55/60 (that means 55 watts low-beam, 60 watts high-beam), from the bulb holder all the way back to the fuses. Running significantly higher wattages can result in a lot of undesirable results, from melted bulb sockets to actual bike fires (one of our members lost an entire bike to this).
If you insist on running higher wattage bulbs, there are other solutions which will work, including running new wiring (heavier), and slaving in relays triggered off the old wires to control the power.
You can find a full write up I did some time ago about motorcycle lighting upgrades, lighting technologies, bulbs, etc. here (webpage) that explains all your options, etc.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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Thanks All, Although I didn't put the bulb, I sure appreciate you guys pointing me in that direction. It was definitly the higher bulb that was causing the problem. I put in a 55/60 and have put about 500 miles in since my last post. All is well. I'm glad you guys helped me on this, it would have been really bad if I blew up my bike, and have only owned it for 2 weeks. Thanks for your time and your knowledge... Happy riding...Comment
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Just a little FYI.. the H4 socket is now shot, and the wiring is all frayed from this (from the old bulb in 3 months ago). I was doing my checks this morning and the High beam didn't work.. .I jiggled the connector, and it flickers back on/off. No bike for me today
Napa has a replacement one I'm going to pick up. How far back do you think I need to replace the wiring, or should I go the whole way to the fuse box? That could become a pain in a hurry
Oh.. what guage wire should I get? It looks like 14 Guage-ish? I didn't look that closely when I was looking at it, I was more worried about having to drive the stupid cage.
Thanks allComment
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I just realized that I posted this in bodyshop... what a newbie I was :LOLComment
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In terms of replacing wiring:Originally posted by gytrdunkatNapa has a replacement one I'm going to pick up. How far back do you think I need to replace the wiring, or should I go the whole way to the fuse box? That could become a pain in a hurry
Oh.. what guage wire should I get? It looks like 14 Guage-ish? I didn't look that closely when I was looking at it, I was more worried about having to drive the stupid cage.
Wire Size: Use one size larger wire than what's already there (i.e. - if they are using 14 gauge, use 12 gauge; if they are using 12, use 10). The difference in cost is minimal, and the peace-of-mind is great.
Minimum replacement: Go as far back as you find brittle or damaged insulation on the wires.
Maximum: Or just do the whole wiring to the headlights end-to-end, soldering in all the replacements and covering with heat-shrink tubing (remember to slip the tubing over the wire before you solder the connection into place).
In terms of replacing the H4 socket:
Solder in the replacement. If you must use butt-splice connectors or similar, pack them chock-full of dielectric grease before inserting the wires and crimping.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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Thanks CP... saving me again... I really do appreciate it... have a good weekend...
Time to tear out the soldering gun
Does anyone know what the stock wiring Guage is? I was just guessing at 14, that's what it looked like at a glance.Comment
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I don't know the size off the top of my head... It may also change between locations (i.e. - might be 14 gauge from the H4 plug to the wiring loom connector [short run] and 12 gauge within the wiring loom [long run]).
Make sure the wire you use is fuel/oil/heat resistant automotive- or motorcycle-grade (UV exposure) multi-stranded.
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoetComment
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