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Old 07-11-2008, 11:44 PM   #1
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Default Repack Yoshimura RS3 Exhaust & install button head screws

I didn't title this as a "How-To" because there are some specifics that I didn't take pictures of or forgot what those specific were. But there's enough info for you if you want to do this on your own.

Yoshi recomends repacking their exhaust at the maximum of 10,000 miles. Since mine had somewhere around 30,000-40,000 i figured it was time to do some exhaust maintenance.

On Yoshimura's web site there is a video on how to repack one of their mufflers. most of that info is good but it does not deal specificaly with the RS-3 series. Watch it and you'll get some good info.

Patience is a must when doing this job.

The first step after removing the can off the bike is to put it on a soft cloth to work on, so you don't get it all scratched up. I used an old bath towel.

Drill out the rivet heads that hold the two bands, like it shows on the video with a 15/64" drill bit. Yoshi say to use a #9 bit. The closest to a #9 drill bit is a 13/64" shown on this page. However, for me, the 13/64" did not work. So I went up to the 15/64" size. I would recomend starting with the smaller 13/64" FIRST, then if neccessary going up in size.

All you need to do is drill off the heads to the rivets.

Following the video, next step is to use a punch, I used my center punch, to pop out the body of the rivets by hammering them inwards. The end cap was easy to puch out the rivets but the inlet, where the mid-pipe enters the exhaust, was more difficult. The end cap has simple holes for the rivets to slide out.

However, the inlet has more metal and on the sides it does not empty into the exhaust can.

So what I did was to use a drill bit (here's where I forgot the size) to continue drilling out the rivets instead of trying to push them out with the punch on the inlet end (or is that front).

After the two bands are off I used my rubber mallet, just like in the video, to tap off the outlet end.

Once you've taped it off, it will look like this.

Next step is to use the rubber mallet and hammer on the center pipe to push out the pipe itself.

For me, the fiberglass packing did not come out along with the center pipe.

So, I just made a fist, with my gloves on, and just pushed it out enough so that I could grap a hold of it to yank it out.

Next step, unwrap the steel wool from the pipe and discard.

Here's the innards of a Yoshi can. Pretty simple.

And the condition of the fiberglass packing.

Wrap on the new steel wool to the pipe. Yoshi sent enough steel whool to do two exhaust, so I'll have enough the next time around if I deside to replace the steel wool on the next time around.

Ok, here's where i differed from Yoshi. Instead of assembling the end caps and bands with new rivets, I used button head screws. I had done some research here prior to doing this job and button head screws were mentioned as being better, solely for the reason of easy disasembly of the can in the future.

I went to the local hardware store and bought 16 1/4"-20 button head screws (here's where I forgot the length, maybe 1/2" long) and a 1/4"-20 tap. The 1/4"-20 tap requires a _____ drill bit. (yep, I forgot. Someone help me out.) Drill out holes using the ______ drill bit and GOING SLOWLY tap the holes. For those that do not know how to use a tap, Goggle "tap threading", or the like, and gets some information first before you do this.

After making new threads, I was ready to assemble the pipe with the new steel wool and fiberglass packing.

On my first attempt I only used 3 straps on paper tape (it will burn off on its own) to wrap the packing material.

However, once the outer sleave (the shinny stainless steel part) was near the inlet cap, the packing material slid back and there was an exposed void at the outlet end.

Soooo, the next attempt was to tightly wrap the packing material in the blue tape and position the packing material further back over the outlet end so that when the friction of sliding the outer sleeve causes the packing material to shift, it will shift into place. See the void at the right side, the packing material will slide backwards (or is that forwards) into place.

Now you can use the rubber mallet like in the video to hammer the inlet end in place. Just watch what you hammer.

Next step is to use the mallet to tap on the outlet end.

One thing i noticed at this point is that the exhaust tip/end was NOT completely centered when I tried to tap on the end cap.

What I believe is that the packing material when wraped around the pipe only went 1-1/4 ways. So that the area that had the double wrap caused the center pipe to shift off center.

With patience I was able to get the end cap on.

Now line up the metal bands and screw in the button head screws and your done. Actually I did have to enlarge the holes in the stainless steel sleeve to accept the larger diameter button head screw. I used my Dremel with a small stone grinder head. Worked great. the bands themselves did not need to be enlarged.

The Yoshimura packing material I bought at my local cycle dealer, they had to order it from them. It was somewhere around $25, but I think any 'ol universal 4-stroke packing will work.

I will emphasize again: patience is a must when doing this, especially for the first time. It probably took about 3 hours to do it all.

One thing I wish I had done was do a before and after sound bite of the exhaust note. Because I really can't tell the difference between the two. If anything, there is a small lower sound up high in the revs. I would have thought that after this amount a miles there would have been a greater amount of sound difference.

Last edited by squiggy; 07-12-2008 at 10:24 AM..
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Old 07-12-2008, 12:03 AM   #2
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Nice tutorial and good thinking on replacing those rivets with machine screws. If I could suggest one thing is place a dab of antisieze on the threads of those screws as sometimes they are a real pita to remove later. V&H uses screws on it's end cap and after a year of riding they tend to be a little hard to remove.

Thanks for sharing!!


Last edited by Tmod; 07-12-2008 at 12:24 AM..
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Old 07-12-2008, 12:17 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Tmod View Post
If I could suggest one thing is place a dab of anti-size on the threads of those screws as sometimes they are a real pita to remove later.
Please add to it.

I didn't even think of doing that. I can imagine the heat cycles and the metal differences between the aluminum and the stainless steel screws could cause issues.
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Old 08-12-2008, 10:14 AM   #4
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yes use antiseize and for a 1/4-20 tap use a #7 drillbit if you don't have a #7 A 13/64 will work

good work
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Old 08-13-2008, 02:53 AM   #5
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nice work, will be digging this back up after I do my across Australia (to Perth) and back tour in October, only 12000km of riding.
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Old 12-23-2008, 09:42 PM   #6
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this is why i got a scorpion... NEVER have to do this.
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Old 12-23-2008, 09:58 PM   #7
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Cool, but I would have tried all steel wool and lose the FG.
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Old 12-23-2008, 11:45 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Edbean View Post
this is why i got a scorpion... NEVER have to do this.
I have a Yosh RS3 and I will never repack it, It's not that loud to begin with so if it gets a little louder over time I'm fine with that. Nice walk through though Squiggy, Thanks.
R.I.P. Marc (CyberPoet)

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Old 01-01-2009, 08:57 AM   #9
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nice write up..thanks for the info.
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Old 01-05-2009, 12:19 PM   #10
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nice write up.

I remember doing this on one of my dirtbikes, and i actually had to poke out each individual tiny hole in the center pipe.

The bike was a 96 and i bet i was the 1st one to repack it

It was a pain, and took forever to poke each hole out...
1989 katana 750
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