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Rebuilt Carbs, Bike Won't Start

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  • Rebuilt Carbs, Bike Won't Start

    Hey Katrider friends, thank you in advance.

    My bike is a '93 600. I recently finished cleaning & rebuilding (including full disassembly and dipping) my carbs; they have all new O-rings, brand new stock size pilot jets, some new float needles and bowl gaskets as needed. They do not leak anymore, thank goodness.

    Today, I installed them and the airbox, with a new air filter, onto my bike to see if it would run for the first time in 2 years. Brand new spark plugs, oil and oil filter. I fed the carbs several inches of fuel in their lines and attempted to start the bike (jumper cable'd to a running car's battery, as my bike battery is dead).

    The starter cranked happily, trying to start the bike, but it did not "fire" at all. Nothing but cranking. I tried maybe 6-8 times, with no different result. Lights were bright and the starter sounded strong; I believe it was getting good juice from the battery (tried to start with just the bike battery and the starter wouldn't even crank). This is all a bit disheartening. But some days are victories, and some are not.

    So.... based on my limited knowledge of Fuel/Air/Spark/Compression, everything the body needs, here we go troubleshooting.


    FUEL:
    I think I trust my work on the carbs; the entire process was documented in this thread, guided by members here. I set the float heights to the 14.6mm spec, and the pilot jets are brand new. Per Krey, I set the A/F screws to 2.5 turns out, for the Dynojet kit it has. Choke operates as it should. I don't see any reason why they should not be functioning as intended to start the bike. They have sat for a week outside with fuel in them (leak testing), but the fuel had Marine Sta-bil in it; I wouldn't think this sitting time is enough to throw anything off.

    AIR:
    Airbox was connected, and new air filter installed. One thing I thought of later was if the idle adjustment screw was not "in" enough; per Carbs101 I installed it so it was barely touching the butterfly-opener-tab. However, giving the bike throttle while starting did not help at all. So.... probably not the issue?

    SPARK:
    Here's where I don't know much at all. Spark plugs are brand new DR8ES. I pulled each plug and wire - noticed they were not covered in fuel... not sure if this was to be expected. I tested spark while grounding them against a bolt on the valve cover (checked this bolt with a voltmeter and the bolt is indeed grounded). All of the plugs made a small blue spark when tested in this way. I really don't know if this is adequate - but here's a video of testing Plug #1 (other plugs looked similar). Does this look normal?

    Spark Video Here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxdRiTrxHyA


    COMPRESSION:
    I have not compression tested the bike. I didn't expect this to be an issue, based on the info below and the bike's history:


    Additional Info:
    The bike ran mediocrely when I got it (2 years ago). Well enough to make the ~90 mile ride home. It was running with no airbox at the time, a decision made by the PO, until I stopped midway at a family member's house, and we put the airbox on. It then ran the additional 50 miles home, but liked to die at a stop.

    During this time the carbs were not synced and were leaking severely, the tank was rusty, and one of the carb diaphragms did not operate smoothly; I attributed the bad running to these factors. Now the carbs are healthy, it has new plugs and filter, no rust - I expected it to run with some carb tuning.


    Based on all the above, some Questions:
    1. When I pulled the spark plugs today, they were not soaked in gas like I figured they might be (based on some thread I probably read 5 years ago on some site). Is it expected that they would be wet?
    2. Does my spark seem normal, or wimpy? In person, it looks like a small blue spark. I was expecting to be nearly blinded by a colossal jolt of light - but perhaps my expectations are too high.
    3. If not the plugs or fuel - what else, compression? I don't mind buying a compression tester. But why would it have run before (with poor carb health) and not start now if the compression was bad?
    4. (Any obvious things I am missing?)


    Thank you folks for the help. I figured the first time I try to start it in 2 years it wouldn't work... because that would be too easy, right? I just hope I can get it running. Done too much on the bike to have it not run.
    Last edited by Heeltoeclutch; 09-19-2017, 02:02 AM.

  • #2
    How much fuel did you use? Most people use a funnel or a bottle with a hose to feed fuel while test running the engine. It's obviously a fuel issue.
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    • #3
      Originally posted by 92xjunker View Post
      How much fuel did you use? Most people use a funnel or a bottle with a hose to feed fuel while test running the engine. It's obviously a fuel issue.
      I filled the fuel lines with a funnel until they settled with 6-8 inches of fuel in them. This was enough to fill the bowls, then stop filling the bowls once the float needles stopped the flow, as the level in the fuel lines dropped, then stopped dropping. That's all that is needed, right? For the bowls to be full?

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      • #4
        It would run for a very short time. Do you get any popping through the exhaust? You may need a little blast of starting fluid. Sometime it needs a little help after a carb rebuild.
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        • #5
          Originally posted by 92xjunker View Post
          It would run for a very short time. Do you get any popping through the exhaust? You may need a little blast of starting fluid. Sometime it needs a little help after a carb rebuild.
          Didn't get any popping I don't think - heard what sounded like just air moving through the exhaust (expected) but not firing/popping. I've heard mixed things about starting fluid, but I will pick some up and give it a try. I suppose I can't do much harm with it if I only use small amounts.

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          • #6
            First start up always takes a bit of cranking to pull fuel through. I'd keep crankng some more, just make sure to let the starter sit and cool in between.
            1998 Katana 750
            1992 Katana 1100
            2006 Ninja 250

            2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

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            • #7
              Originally posted by shpielers View Post
              First start up always takes a bit of cranking to pull fuel through. I'd keep crankng some more, just make sure to let the starter sit and cool in between.
              Originally posted by 92xjunker View Post
              It would run for a very short time. Do you get any popping through the exhaust? You may need a little blast of starting fluid. Sometime it needs a little help after a carb rebuild.
              Thanks for the responses guys; I bought some starting fluid and more carb cleaner today (read that can work as well) and I'll be giving those a try tomorrow, along with some more, careful cranking.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Heeltoeclutch View Post
                Thanks for the responses guys; I bought some starting fluid and more carb cleaner today (read that can work as well) and I'll be giving those a try tomorrow, along with some more, careful cranking.
                For what it's worth I had to use carb cleaner (possibly brake cleaner) to kick start my carbs after a full clean and rebuild. With the air box off I just sprayed a little directly into each carb body while cranking the engine, easier if you have someone to help. Then just let it run for a while with a fan on the down pipes and radiator. Worked a treat you really don't need to spray much at all.

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                • #9
                  Make sure the idle screw is not opening the butterfly too much as well. These bikes require vacuum to pull fuel, or if it does start will will rev to 9000 rpm.
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                  "There's a green blur and a Gray blur. I try to stay on the gray one" Joey Dunlop RIP

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by SilverKat1000 View Post
                    Make sure the idle screw is not opening the butterfly too much as well. These bikes require vacuum to pull fuel, or if it does start will will rev to 9000 rpm.
                    Good point
                    Did you bench sync them?
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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Seft View Post
                      For what it's worth I had to use carb cleaner (possibly brake cleaner) to kick start my carbs after a full clean and rebuild. With the air box off I just sprayed a little directly into each carb body while cranking the engine, easier if you have someone to help. Then just let it run for a while with a fan on the down pipes and radiator. Worked a treat you really don't need to spray much at all.
                      Originally posted by SilverKat1000 View Post
                      Make sure the idle screw is not opening the butterfly too much as well. These bikes require vacuum to pull fuel, or if it does start will will rev to 9000 rpm.
                      Originally posted by 92xjunker View Post
                      Good point
                      Did you bench sync them?

                      Thanks for the responses and help so far guys - funny that you mention that SilverKat... Yes, they are bench-sync'd, 92x.

                      Some progress today!

                      Tried starting again today, all times with choke fully on.
                      1. First time no starter fluid; no dice.
                      2. Second time, with starter fluid. Bike started right up, and then IMMEDIATELY revved up and bounced off the redline, scaring the bejeesus out of me! Shut it off immediately. I thought it might be something to do with starter fluid; it seemed my throttle was operating as expected... So I let it dissipate for a minute or so.
                      3. After a while, third time, no additional starter fluid. Bike started right up and revved right up again, and I shut it off. Took the airbox off, examined the carbs - the butterflies were open halfway. Turns out I had partially reassembled my right-hand grip, and it was stuck about halfway open, caught on the button housing. Whoops.
                      4. Fourth time, no additional fluid, throttle cable removed from grip. Bike started, and idled! Little rough, but it lived for the first time in 2 years! Thanks for the starter fluid tip, 92x and Seft.


                      However, new problem. Bike dies if ANY throttle is applied. Searching on here, looks like the bike is lean. I might try the hand-over-the-intake thing tomorrow. Carbs should be very clean; they were dipped and the pilot jets are brand new. Tomorrow I will try turning the A/F scews out another quarter turn; I believe they are at 2.5 turns out right now. The fact that they revved right up (with half throttle) with starter fluid seems to confirm that they are lean, since it will run with half throttle if the mix is "richened" with starter fluid... if I understand this all correctly.

                      I would hope this gets the bike running well enough to manometer-sync the carbs.
                      Last edited by Heeltoeclutch; 09-21-2017, 01:29 AM.

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                      • #12
                        Sync them with a sync tool...
                        "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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                        • #13
                          Probably going to have to sync them multiple times. Get idle as close to1800 rpm as possible, sync. You now are no longer at 1800, readjust so you are and sync again. Rinse, repeat until you're at 1800 after syncing. Adjust idle back to 1200, button up, add gear, ride.
                          Just did that for the 750 I picked up recently, it was waaaay off. Had to sync/adjust idle 4 times.
                          1998 Katana 750
                          1992 Katana 1100
                          2006 Ninja 250

                          2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

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                          • #14
                            If you're near stock jetting, the bike wont like not having an airbox or filter.
                            When adjusting lowspeed fuel screw back out screw until the engine doesn't idle higher and go back in about a 1/2 turn, then do the next.
                            You may be way lean if bike just dies if you open throttle.

                            If it gets worse backing out, turn it back in. If your highest idle is with screw all the way in, your float level is too high.
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                            "There's a green blur and a Gray blur. I try to stay on the gray one" Joey Dunlop RIP

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                            • #15
                              I'd sync before anything. Use the idle screw to up the rpm, sync them.. adjust the idle screw, probably have to do that a few times as the process... Then once sycned check the throttle response. If there is a problem, then we look at other issues.

                              Sync will definitely cause throttle issues off idle.

                              Krey
                              93 750 Kat



                              Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

                              "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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