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Oil Change - How To

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  • #16
    Well I just did my first oil change on the Kat as per all of the above posts. Went perfect.
    And I can see how someone could very easily strip the pan. 16.5 ftlbs felt not much more than finger tight.
    So if you dont have a torque wrench, I would suggest you get one.

    I used one of the plastic cap wrenches for the oil filter, worked like a charm. Also needed to get the full two turns of the new filter.


    One question though........I think on my next change I will use a new crush washer......what is the better to use? Copper or aluminum, or the metal/rubber ones?

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    • #17
      Copper would be the preferred washer material, IMHO. It's 14mm ID, and any place that does oil changes on Honda cars will carry them, since virtually every Honda built in the last 15 years uses a 14mm ID crush washer on their oil pans.

      But the Fumoto really is worth the upgrade.

      Cheers,
      =-= The CyberPoet
      Remember The CyberPoet

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      • #18
        Yeah, I think I am going to get the fumoto valve. One question though..........how do you torque the valve properly? It doesnt look like a standard socket will work.

        Also, do you sell them? Or do I have to get it from Fumoto?

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        • #19
          I don't sell them because Fumoto won't cut me any discount on pricing -- so I send people straight to them. Someone else posted up a vendor who had them for $3 less, but I know for a fact (from previous experience) if you order the wrong thing from FumotoValve.com, they will exchange it for free with no additional postage costs, etc.

          As for torquing the fumoto down, you use an adjustable wrench or a box-wrench, and go to snug plus a wee-bit. It has a blue crush washer built onto it that will get squeezed down and the threads of the valve are a bit wider to get a better bite into the oil pan. I haven't seen anyone strip one yet, but I suppose if you use a long enough lever arm or gorilla force, you could. My advice is to only use your pinkee finger at a distance of about 4" from the center of rotation -- that should keep you from stripping it unless you go overboard (or have super-Karate pinkee power).

          Cheers,
          =-= The CyberPoet
          Remember The CyberPoet

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          • #20
            You will need to cut away the ridge next to the oil drain bolt on the 98+ Kats to install the fumoto.
            Sorry guys, not mechanically inclined (yet), what should I use to cut the ridge?

            Thanks.
            The Armor of God - Never leave home without it!

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            • #21
              Dremel or the like. Note: a grinder would work as well.

              Be sure to wear eye protection!

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              • #22
                Originally posted by WildKat
                I also remove the belly pan fairing just so it's a bit easier to get to the drain bolt and filter. Only take a minute to undo all the bolts plus it gives you a chance to clean it up afterward since you tend to get a lot of dirt and debris on the inside of that fairing.
                For us Fumoto "valvees", it's literally a one finger job to drain the oil. I can't believe I waited as long as I did to do the upgrade.

                Your right WildKat; there's always crud inside the belly pan fairing.

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                • #23
                  Dremel or the like. Note: a grinder would work as well.

                  Be sure to wear eye protection!
                  Thanks FloridaKat!!!!
                  The Armor of God - Never leave home without it!

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