1st Tire Change Checklist?

[Syndacate]

Hey,

I just got my new tires, apparently I'm in deep need of some as they're OEM tires, so they're 13 years old, even though the bike only has 4k on it.

So I got the tires, they're Metzeler Z6 Roadtec Interacts, and I'd like to put them on in the near future. Shops are *** raping me over this. With one, they're a week backed up before I can even get my bike in there (and I actually saw the book, he wasn't ****ting me), and then it's 135 on the bike, 90 off the bike, then the other shop said 70 off the bike, 200 on the bike.

All prices are insane to me, so as inept as I feel in my mechanical abilities, I'm going to do it myself, dammit.

So I'm on MCSS trying to get everything I need, so I got on the list or have:
- Tires
- 2 x 16" tire irons
- Generic Motion Pro valve core remover
- K&L Quickstick Wheel Weights, 36 x 1/4oz (I think that says 1/4)

So, what else do I need? I probably need a replacement valve stem after 13 years, but I can't find any except some curved metal one..Also, will the above work? Are there any parts that should be replaced along with this? What am I missing?

How I plan on doing this:
- Put bike on center stand
- Put 2x4's under engine towards front lower than center stand to keep front off ground...I'd like to do one at a time so it's not completely unstable.
- Mark current wheel adjustment (chain tension) and push the wheel in using the adjusters
- Remove axle nut and chain (btw what size is axle nut, it's not deep wall, is it?)
- Slide axle out, remove wheel.
- Change rear tire using the above tools, with a new valve stem...haven't quite figured out how I'm going to put air in it yet...I think the Hess station up the road has a compressor, I can just drive it up there in my car.
- Balance rear wheel
- Put rear tire back on, slide axle through, put axle nut on to tq. spec (I'm sure that's in the owner's manual, I have a torque wrench here, although it's a standard tq. wrench, not one of those inch pound ones or whatever)
- Back wheel out to mark on adjusters..check chain tension I guess at this point..
- Tilt it back on center stand so front is lifted
- Remove axle nut, axle
- Possibly remove one of the discs to prevent damage to it, I can use 2x4's on each side of the rim for the "down" side
- change tire using above tools, replace valve stem
- Balance front wheel
- Put wheel on, put axle through
- tighten front axle nut to spec

Am I missing anything in there? Anything at all that might break, need replacing, become an issue, etc.? Any steps I'm missing in the process? Anything to watch out for?

Note: As for balancing, I plan on putting the axle on 2 jack stands and using that method..

Note: You'll notice I didn't mention breaking the tire bead...I know I didn't, exclude that aspect from any responses..

As you can tell I'm 100% new to this, have only changed tires using a machine in a garage, never removed a MC wheel, never changed an MC tire, so ANY information that I'm missing would be greatly appreciated.

Also, how "exact" is the requirements for the torque spec on the axle nut? Is it like a lug nut where it barely matters? I intend to use a tq. wrench to it, but somewhere I read to use an inch/lb tq. wrench, I don't feel like buying a new tq. wrench, they're expensive as hell. If you haven't noticed I'm cutting costs to a minimum. I'm also kind of pressed on time to get the tires on.

Any and all feedback is appreciated, thanks for taking the time to read all this, help me get this **** done the right way ! .

[Syndacate]

Bump, anybody? Plz?

[KAT TOY]

search the wiki for repair manuals for more info

[scottynoface]

Take the wheels off, remove tires, replace tires, balance, reinstall making sure rear wheel is straight.

[Philskat]

for what i read it sounds good i have mounted all of my bike tires over the years and most of them have had a mark on the tire either a paint dot or the letters "twi" and i line those up with the valve stem and and there is no need to balance i have never even checked them but the bikes are smooth with no vibes

[yngveny]

Sounds like you have it under control.
Just remember you have to loosen the rear caliper torque arm and unbolt atleast one of the front calipers to get the wheels off.

[Syndacate]

search the wiki for repair manuals for more info

I have the information I need, I do believe, I'm just looking for any "gotchas!" that this may throw at me, I'm edging it on what tools I have, in every respect, and don't have a shop/garage or anything to put this thing in.

- No real stands shall hold the bike up, just the center stand and some nicely placed 2x4's
- I only have the tools in my (large) hand-held tool-box...pretty standard tools, ratchets, screwdrivers, and such, nothing special besides my torque wrench, which is separate..so I may not have a specialty tool if I need one..but there's a harbor freight down the road. I just want to make sure I order everything I need to as far as "specialty tools" go so I'm not stuck waiting on something...I love riding this thing and hate to have downtime - I commute with it.
- I have never removed a motorcycle wheel before

So using the above, my worry is probably warranted.

Take the wheels off, remove tires, replace tires, balance, reinstall making sure rear wheel is straight.

Yeah, that's pretty much what I listed, as far as making sure the rear wheel is straight, if I mark the location of each of the adjusters on the adjuster bolts themselves, it should remain straight when I put it back on, correct?

The only way it can come out of straightness is if the adjustment bolts are tightened differently, correct?

for what i read it sounds good i have mounted all of my bike tires over the years and most of them have had a mark on the tire either a paint dot or the letters "twi" and i line those up with the valve stem and and there is no need to balance i have never even checked them but the bikes are smooth with no vibes

The letters TWI is written, you mean? I heard about the paint dot, the lightest part of the tire, start off using it to balance against the valve stem.

Sounds like you have it under control.
Just remember you have to loosen the rear caliper torque arm and unbolt atleast one of the front calipers to get the wheels off.

LoL - "Just remember", I didn't know either of those.

- Why does only one front caliper need to be removed? By removed you just mean one of the slider bolts unbolted and the caliper flipped up, right?
- Loosen the torque arm from the swing arm side or the caliper side, or does it not matter, as long as I can move the caliper off of the disk to make putting it back on not abnormally hard?


SOME THINGS THAT HAVE BEEN WORRYING ME:
-------------------
- Does my specialty tool list sound complete? I'd like to order these Monday night when I get back (going to Canada for the weekend).
- These are all normal size bolts and the like, right? I'm not going to run into any deep wall **** or anything, am I?
- I can't tell if they have a paint dot, but if they do, that signifies light end, correct?
- While balancing, will there ever be a time when 1 1/4oz weight is too heavy, and I should cut it in half? (god I hope not)
- What kind of PSI should I put these things to? Just whatever it says the max is on the tire, or should I run them a little lighter, harder? I'm assuming too far either way affects traction, but I'm not sure if there's any rules while inflating them.
- All valve core removers are created equal, right? No special sizes on OEM valve stems or any weird crap like that, right?

**** - MAJOR THINGS
- For the front wheel, I know I use 2x4's on either side of the disk to not damage the disk, but since the front wheel has a disk on each side, what do I do about the disk facing up? Will I be able to get the spoons in there with it up? Do I just be careful? Do I remove the disk? I'm quite afraid to remove the disk due to its tolerances :'( I guess as long as I do it in a star pattern and to equal torque it should be fine..I rather not remove it at all.

- The valve stems should probably be replaced, you always replace them on car tires and these tires/stems are 13 years old. Unfortunately I can't find valve stems on MCSS with the exception of one curved metal one - Anybody have any locations as to where I can get some?

---

I apologize for asking all this stuff, I realize it's a lot, and I realize to most of you it probably seems like super trivial ****. I just like to have all my bases covered 6 ways from Sunday so there's A) No surprises (or as little surprise as possible), and B) There's some **** you just don't find in the how-to's...little tips and **** people tell you to watch out for which really help that you can only get by asking people who have been there.

Thanks a lot you guys - you guys are a great help. Also, I realize that this might seem incredibly pathetic, as all I'm doing is changing tires. I'm just trying to keep telling myself that a tire is a tire and I've changed tons of tires on a standard tire machine with no issues, and removed countless tires from countless car hubs with no (or little) issues.

I'd like to make my MCSS order Monday night when I get back from CA, to hopefully get the stuff by Thursday or Friday, as the post office isn't open Saturday/Sunday and I'm boned then .

Right now I just have the two spoons, the weights, and the valve core remover in my cart.

EDIT:
PS @ KAT TOY:
I have the manuals from the Wiki - the manuals suck.

[yngveny]

For the torque arm just need too loosen the bolts so you have some movement.
For the front calipers, they sit "inside" the rim and must be removed to allow you to drop the wheel out.
You might get away with removing one and then kind of wiggle the wheel out.

Removal and replacing the wheels are quite easy, no special tools should be needed.
As for replacing the tires I never did it myself. Always bought the tires from a shop and they replaces the wheels for free.

[Wild-Bill]

OK, coupla things.
1. Harbor Freight has tire irons and a bead breaker that'll do the job. About $25 for the bead breaker (a must-have for the job) and about $6 each for 2 tire irons. They also carry 1/4 oz stick-on wheel weights. for about $2. One pack should last you about the rest of your life.
2. Before you ever bring a tire iron close to the rim you need to wedge some sort of rim protector between the (steel) tire iron and the edge of the (aluminum) rim. I used sections cut from the lid of a coffee can. Not using a rim protector WILL result in a scarred up rim.
3. Valve stems and core removal tools are available from Autozone. Rubber ones need a special tool (on the same aisle for about $5) to pull them through the rim.
4. Once you break the bead all the way around both sides (Have some 2x4s on hand to keep the rotors clear of the floor.) soapy water is your friend. This is true for both prying the old tire off and prying the new one on as well as seating the bead.
5. To set the bead you're going to have to remove the valve stem (to allow the compressor to drive air in fast enough to seat the bead). Your convenience store compressor probably won't have enough oomph for this. I'd look for a friendly auto repair shop or the place where you buy your car tires. They'll probably be willing to set the bead for you for about nothing. (Literally. The last time I needed help with a tire the local Tires 4 Less guy refused to charge me anything. It probably helped that I'd just paid them to replace all three tires on my trailer.)
6. Rims' heaviest points aren't always exactly at the (installed) valve stem. You'll spend less time balancing if you look for the heavy spot before mounting the tire.
7. I just put Z6s on my bike. They had a red dot marking the light spot.

[Novelldude]

Balance your wheel before you put it back on. Quick google for "balance motorcycle wheel" it will give you the process. Yes, it's important!

As far as making the wheel straight, a simple ruler measuring the distance between the wheel and the swingarm should give you equal measurements. If they are the same on both sides when measured from the same point on the wheel, then you're wheel is parallel which is what you're looking for. If they don't line up, you work the adjusters until it is.

Your local bike shop should have valve stems for about 3 bucks a pop. They'll generally sell them at the parts or the shop counter in a bucket.

Go slow, use some muscle, but don't force stuff. You force it, you start breaking things.

ND

[Syndacate]

For the torque arm just need too loosen the bolts so you have some movement.
For the front calipers, they sit "inside" the rim and must be removed to allow you to drop the wheel out.
You might get away with removing one and then kind of wiggle the wheel out.

Removal and replacing the wheels are quite easy, no special tools should be needed.
As for replacing the tires I never did it myself. Always bought the tires from a shop and they replaces the wheels for free.

Yeah, I'm just worried about damaging something or doing something the improper way and having bad effects because of it. So basically you just loosen both bolts of the torque arm to move the rear caliper off to make the wheel removal easy, as for the front, the way you make it sound, I'd be better off just removing both calipers, then removing the wheel, and vice versa when I put the wheel back on.

I'm assuming everything there is just "reasonably" tight (ie. "decently" tight) as far as the caliper mount and torque bolts go, but I'm assuming the axle nuts have have a specific torque to them, therefore need to be tightened with a torque wrench, no?

OK, coupla things.
1. Harbor Freight has tire irons and a bead breaker that'll do the job. About $25 for the bead breaker (a must-have for the job) and about $6 each for 2 tire irons. They also carry 1/4 oz stick-on wheel weights. for about $2. One pack should last you about the rest of your life.
2. Before you ever bring a tire iron close to the rim you need to wedge some sort of rim protector between the (steel) tire iron and the edge of the (aluminum) rim. I used sections cut from the lid of a coffee can. Not using a rim protector WILL result in a scarred up rim.
3. Valve stems and core removal tools are available from Autozone. Rubber ones need a special tool (on the same aisle for about $5) to pull them through the rim.
4. Once you break the bead all the way around both sides (Have some 2x4s on hand to keep the rotors clear of the floor.) soapy water is your friend. This is true for both prying the old tire off and prying the new one on as well as seating the bead.
5. To set the bead you're going to have to remove the valve stem (to allow the compressor to drive air in fast enough to seat the bead). Your convenience store compressor probably won't have enough oomph for this. I'd look for a friendly auto repair shop or the place where you buy your car tires. They'll probably be willing to set the bead for you for about nothing. (Literally. The last time I needed help with a tire the local Tires 4 Less guy refused to charge me anything. It probably helped that I'd just paid them to replace all three tires on my trailer.)
6. Rims' heaviest points aren't always exactly at the (installed) valve stem. You'll spend less time balancing if you look for the heavy spot before mounting the tire.
7. I just put Z6s on my bike. They had a red dot marking the light spot.

1. I think I have an idea that I think will cover breaking the bead. I'll have to get the part numbers and have them order it this week (the tire irons and the weights) - Does weight make matter? Or a wheel weight is a wheel weight? They all seem to be 1/4oz.

2. So you just used a piece of plastic, basically, for yours? You're saying just put something there to keep it from scratching the **** out of the rim, right? Or can I actually knock the rim's lip out of round or something?

3. But I can use the regular valve core remover I linked to on MCSS's website, right? Then I can use another special tool to pull the valve stem through the rim..still begs the question as to where I can get additional rubber valve stems...

4. Yup, that's what I hear, soapy water or windex.

5. Are you sure there's no way a convenience store compressor would set the bead? How would I know if the bead was set, and what happens if it's not set (hopefully just air leak, right?). The problem is that everybody's greedy as **** in this town, no shop would even want to do it at all none-the-less for free. They'd all give me the jerk-me-off of "well you didn't buy it here" kind of crap...there's no "mom and pop" garages around here that would just be willing to set the bead if I throw him a 10 spot or something...it ****ing sucks - the whole town is run by chain stores...

6. So you're saying look at the rim and see where the heavy side is - with the valve in and everything, and then put the dot or written lettering of the tire (the light spot) there, and that should give me the best starting point when doing the balance?

7. Awesome.

---

A lot of useful stuff in there I had no idea about, especially 5, 1, 3...I heard 2 before, but was hoping I could just ignore it and just get away with a few scratches on the rim, the bike shows its wear...but apparently I need them...also heard of #4, 6 is some common sense which I didn't think about - and thx for the tip in #7.

Balance your wheel before you put it back on. Quick google for "balance motorcycle wheel" it will give you the process. Yes, it's important!

Yeah, I've seen videos on the process already, thanks.

As far as making the wheel straight, a simple ruler measuring the distance between the wheel and the swingarm should give you equal measurements. If they are the same on both sides when measured from the same point on the wheel, then you're wheel is parallel which is what you're looking for. If they don't line up, you work the adjusters until it is.

So an imbalance in the adjusters will actually show a difference in the measurements from the swing arm to the front or rear of the wheel? I thought the difference would be too small to notice that way...or am I understanding you wrong..?

Your local bike shop should have valve stems for about 3 bucks a pop. They'll generally sell them at the parts or the shop counter in a bucket.

No, they don't, I don't know what's with the places you guys go to, all the places around my area are chain stores or greedy *******s because they're the only ones around - Last time I went into the ONLY cycle store around here they said they didn't have any. I'll check another one further away and maybe I'll get lucky. Outside of those two there's absolutely 0 in any reasonable distance..

Go slow, use some muscle, but don't force stuff. You force it, you start breaking things.

ND

Thanks for the tip(s)!

[yngveny]

Unbolting both front calipers is quite fast and easy so might be easiest yes.
Make sure you rig something to hold them out of the way (just some string or whatever) to avoid having them hang by the brake lines.
Calipers should be torqued, check the manual for specs
http://katriders.com/wiki/index.php5...Service_Manual

[Wild-Bill]

...

1. I think I have an idea that I think will cover breaking the bead. I'll have to get the part numbers and have them order it this week (the tire irons and the weights) - Does weight make matter? Or a wheel weight is a wheel weight? They all seem to be 1/4oz.

2. So you just used a piece of plastic, basically, for yours? You're saying just put something there to keep it from scratching the **** out of the rim, right? Or can I actually knock the rim's lip out of round or something?

3. But I can use the regular valve core remover I linked to on MCSS's website, right? Then I can use another special tool to pull the valve stem through the rim..still begs the question as to where I can get additional rubber valve stems...

4. Yup, that's what I hear, soapy water or windex.

5. Are you sure there's no way a convenience store compressor would set the bead? How would I know if the bead was set, and what happens if it's not set (hopefully just air leak, right?). The problem is that everybody's greedy as **** in this town, no shop would even want to do it at all none-the-less for free. They'd all give me the jerk-me-off of "well you didn't buy it here" kind of crap...there's no "mom and pop" garages around here that would just be willing to set the bead if I throw him a 10 spot or something...it ****ing sucks - the whole town is run by chain stores...

6. So you're saying look at the rim and see where the heavy side is - with the valve in and everything, and then put the dot or written lettering of the tire (the light spot) there, and that should give me the best starting point when doing the balance?

7. Awesome.

---

A lot of useful stuff in there I had no idea about, especially 5, 1, 3...I heard 2 before, but was hoping I could just ignore it and just get away with a few scratches on the rim, the bike shows its wear...but apparently I need them...also heard of #4, 6 is some common sense which I didn't think about - and thx for the tip in #7.



Yeah, I've seen videos on the process already, thanks.



So an imbalance in the adjusters will actually show a difference in the measurements from the swing arm to the front or rear of the wheel? I thought the difference would be too small to notice that way...or am I understanding you wrong..?



No, they don't, I don't know what's with the places you guys go to, all the places around my area are chain stores or greedy *******s because they're the only ones around - Last time I went into the ONLY cycle store around here they said they didn't have any. I'll check another one further away and maybe I'll get lucky. Outside of those two there's absolutely 0 in any reasonable distance..



Thanks for the tip(s)!

1. HF doesn't have the tire irons in stock?! Weights are weights. Get the stick-on type.
2. Yup. Thick plastic to pad the rim from the tire iron. Nothing cosmic.
3. Good valve core remover=razor knife. Once the old tire is off the rim you just cut the valve stem inside the rim (cut parallel to the rim surface) and pull it out from the end normally outside the tire. Learned that trick from the dude at Tires-4-Less.
5. Most convenience stores have a tank-less demand compressor. You need a tank to flood air in there really quickly. It's the speed that seats the bead, not high pressure.
6. Exactly.

[Syndacate]

Unbolting both front calipers is quite fast and easy so might be easiest yes.
Make sure you rig something to hold them out of the way (just some string or whatever) to avoid having them hang by the brake lines.
Calipers should be torqued, check the manual for specs
http://katriders.com/wiki/index.php5...Service_Manual

I'll mount them, somewhere on the forks for the time being...as for the torque specs - blahhhh - I have that manual, but I hate that manual, I can't figure out its organization for the life of me, it's not like a standard helms manual for cars that I'm used to . Never-the-less, I'll try to find the specs in there.

1. HF doesn't have the tire irons in stock?! Weights are weights. Get the stick-on type.
2. Yup. Thick plastic to pad the rim from the tire iron. Nothing cosmic.
3. Good valve core remover=razor knife. Once the old tire is off the rim you just cut the valve stem inside the rim (cut parallel to the rim surface) and pull it out from the end normally outside the tire. Learned that trick from the dude at Tires-4-Less.
5. Most convenience stores have a tank-less demand compressor. You need a tank to flood air in there really quickly. It's the speed that seats the bead, not high pressure.
6. Exactly.

1. I didn't check tire irons last time I went, was looking for the balancer and bead beaker, then.
2. Okay, sounds good.
3. So just cut off the base from the inside and pull it out from the outside normally? Why can't I just push it back through the rim like I put it in? I'm assuming you just use regular pliers to pull it through the rim from the outside (put it in from the inside, and pull it through through the outside)?
4. No 4 ?
5. Dammit. I wonder if I can rent a pump with a small tank and valve stem chuck from harbor freight - do they do that thing where you pay for it, then borrow it, then bring it back and they give you your money back? I was completely relying on a convenient store for air - I didn't know the bead was actually "set." This is a bump in the road or two...dammit.. Any ideas? There's no mom/pop garages around here who would do that, only chain stores. There's one a ways away, it's a hike, but I wonder if they'd do it if I tossed 'em a 10 spot - it takes them 5 minutes.. Is there any other alternatives to this?

Blah, I'm getting all nervous again, especially about the valve, now...even more-so as I haven't actually found a store that sells them..HF doesn't have them according to their website..why the hell are they so hard to find???

- So I can allegedly buy the valve core remover at autozone or advance auto (but I doubt either will have it for some reason).
- I can cut the old valve out from the back so I don't need a puller
- I have no way to get tanked air that I know of - if I just find a tank (which I doubt I will) with an air chock end on it, and I fill it up from a convenient store or what have you, there should be enough pressure (assume small, like a small hand-held 100psi tank) to set the bead, right? I have a 100psi tank at my house but that's 260 miles away.
- The only seem to have one type of tire iron on harborfreight.com, looks kind of cheesy, especially for $5.99 - thoughts?
- Harbor freight has generic weights - I thought, I can't find them now - I'm not sure if they will apply to MC rims, will they? Or do they need to be MC specific? The way I see it a 1/4oz is a 1/4oz, but I'm not sure if they come in diff sizes for MC rims or whatever. Though according to what I'm hearing here autozone or advance auto should have them, right?
- Does one size fit all for valve stem size?

Man, things are looking really ****ty in terms of getting this done this weekend, I hate living in an area like this when it comes to working on **** when nobody around has anything - opposed to back where I grew up where SOMEBODY near you has something you can use, and any mom/pop store would take care of setting the bead.

This **** is grim . Wish I had more resources..

[Wild-Bill]

I used two of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch...ron-93230.html for tire irons. They don't have to be expensive to work

For removing the valve stems, Yes, slash the inside and pull it out from the outside. I used plain, old flat jaw pliers.

Valve stems come in two diameters. You need the smaller of these, .453 inches. Like I mentioned before, you do need a special puller to install the rubber ones but the metal ones need a 14mm wrench. I think the metal ones were about $2 more--less than the price of a puller. Autozone and Advance both stock them (both the rubber and metal types) on the shelf.

The generic stick-on wheel weights work just fine.

Looks like your big sticking point is seating the bead. I'd be willing to bet that if you wandered up to the service bay at Wal-Mart or a big tire chain store and talked to one of the mechanics, they'd be more than happy to do that for you for the price of a 12-pack. Trick is to talk to the mechanic, not the manager.