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Lowering my kat

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  • Lowering my kat

    Hey guys what would you guys reccomend on lowering my 2006 750 kat?i dont feel comfy riding when both my feet don't touch ground
    If I aint riding my kat im pulling magic trix out of my hat!
    «on the soccer field of course»

  • #2
    Are you looking to do it cheap or do it right?
    If it aint broke fix it till it is

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    • #3
      Both or what are my options? Thx bro
      If I aint riding my kat im pulling magic trix out of my hat!
      «on the soccer field of course»

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      • #4
        Cheap and right aren't the same. Pick one.

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        • #5
          lowering links are the "cheap" way mine is lowered about a inch no complants got them off ebay for less than 50 bucks

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          • #6
            Lowering links are the incorrect way to do it.
            90% of motorcycle forum members do not have a service manual for their bike.

            Originally posted by Badfaerie
            I love how the most ignorant people I have met are the ones that fling the word "ignorant" around like it's an insult, or poo. Maybe they think it means poo
            Originally posted by soulless kaos
            but personaly I dont see a point in a 1000 you can get the same power from a properly tuned 600 with less weight and better handeling.

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            • #7
              The "cheap" way...

              Lowering links on the rear, slide the forks up in the front. What ever drop the rear also drop the front end at least that much.

              Pro - it's cheap (total costs max would be like $130)

              Con - Your suspension is out of whack for this type of lowering. You have moved the range of travel for the wheels into the hard parts of the bike (front fender may hit on hard compressions, rear wheel may rub the under fender). The belly pan and header are much more likely to grind and scrape/hit on heavy compression situations.

              The "right" way -

              Have the shock or purchase a shock that can be... modified by having shims inserted inside to reduce the travel range. Use a spacer in the lower of the front works. Adjust the spring rates, dampening, and fluids to match these changes and the rider/passenger weights.

              Pro - The bike will handle significantly better than stock even due to the suspension adjustments. The wheels won't hit hard parts as you never changed the max range of the suspension travel. You also won't bottom out the bottom of the bike and be hitting things with your belly cowl or exhaust header.

              Con- It takes a little time to get the work done. It's a bit more expensive to have all the work done right putting it in the $400-600 rough estimate range.

              Tmod can do the work and does it VERY well btw.

              Krey
              93 750 Kat



              Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

              "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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