Yer i think i will is that the little magnet laser thing you put on the front sprocket?
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Ok im working the next 4 days so im unable to work on the beast however i have 12 days off after that and i have a list of jobs to sort out on the bike.
1. Change the locking bolts and pins on the frame that holds the rear axle back
2. Shorten the massive chain thats on there as i cant adjust any further
3. rear brakes are drums so they need attention as they currently dont work at all even the hand brake does not work
4.take front calipers off and test drive to see if the weird tank slapper wobble is cause by the front calipers.
5. Tune up the carb.
6 change the tank cap gasket the original is split and i can smell fuel from it.
7.Add anything else i find to this list.
8.Get insurance and mot tax
9. Legally ride it.
thanks all for your help ill post back my result/issues when i start playing with it next week.Last edited by maughanorama; 08-21-2017, 01:18 AM.
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You should look up a video on chains before messing with what you have. See how to check for the different types of wear and then see if what you have is just long or streched out. The tool i use is rear sprocket tool, just a clamp on bar, its 12 bucks. .
i know a thing or two about trikes and geometry. I streched the rear on this one 6".We may not always win the game, but we never lose the party.
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yer i will. i had a check of the rear sprocket and it looks ok, does not look worn.
ill find the master link and remove the chain and inspect it. i think the last owner stuck a new chain on but its really long. even with my frame set as far back as possible its just about tight enough.
but like i say i need to get some new hardend steel bolts that lock the frame in position before i do any of that. ill defo get the chain alignement tool, what i think is straight with my wonky eyes and whats true is totally differentLast edited by maughanorama; 08-21-2017, 01:20 AM.
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I have better than perfect eyes and i was still amazed at how off on alignment i was just using hash marks. On a three wheeler it shows times a million because you dont have just two contact patches. Your tention bolts are just adjusters, your rear end should lock down at the pivot point. Any chance you have some pics of the rear end. If it wont lock down at the pivot point its usually due to bad pivot bearings/ spacers. The adjusters shouldnt be carrying a load. If they are, you are risking your life on them.We may not always win the game, but we never lose the party.
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ill take some photos later...im at work
from memory the bolts that are sheard are the ones that hold the 2 parts of the frame together. the adjuster is just a threaded rod that goes through one side of the frame. the adjuster is ok these bolts are like you say the pivot point of the axle on either side of the bike
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Heres the right rear axle. chain adjuster and pivot locks/ slide locks..
Basically the 2 bolts on the right are stripped so i need to change those as the axle is kinder free at the moment
Once i get this thing road worthy. Im gunna tidy up the body paint and stone chip. But im concentrating on mechanicals first
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Holy shit man, get that outta there and put a stock rear swingarm in it, make a bike. Thats go kart grade.... i wouldnt trust my life on that iron.
[QUOTE=Mrontime;2380513]Holy shit man, get that outta there and put a stock rear swingarm in it, make a bike. Thats go kart grade.... i wouldnt trust my life on that iron. No offense meant by that.....We may not always win the game, but we never lose the party.
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I bet they used the stock swingarm mounting spot for the pivot point. That rear looks home made man and not in a beefy way. You could probably get an ebay swingarm and rear wheel and have the bike you originally wanted. Funny how a concern for safety caused you to buy a death trap lmfao.We may not always win the game, but we never lose the party.
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Wouldn't a better pic help. I can't judge from that pic but, I'll bet it was a kit."I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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yer its a bolt on kit.
i cant have a bike i dont have a licence. however i can ride this legally in the uk on a car licence
the iron is not thin it angle iron and box. the original suspension from the swing arm is still on there mounted to the frame somehow.
as far as i can tell the swing arm has been totally removed and the suspension mounted to the frame.
this has past dvla testing to be registered as a trike. (uk stuff) so it has been originally tested and has had MOTs (again uk stuff to proove the vehicle is road legal/safe)
ill take better photos tomorrow. in the day time.Last edited by maughanorama; 08-22-2017, 09:30 AM.
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swing arm and trike suspensions aren't in the same class as the load is carried differently between the two."I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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The only person who really has to trust it with your life is you. To me those welds dont look trust worthy and the frame in the pic i saw looked pretty thin to me. Flex in that rear will cause your handling problems. I dont have anything to gain from pissing on a parade. I would at the leas suggest possibly gusseting any frame intersections and getting a good check to make sure its strait. Also i always like to check the top welds, use a mirror or take the body off but the hard to reach welds should all be inspected....We may not always win the game, but we never lose the party.
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