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Tire Talk, Chain & Sprockets If it has to do with tires & wheels, then you're in the right place.
Best tire for a Katana? What's the tread life on a particular brand ? Size of a stock rim?
Chains & Sprockets? These questions and so much more are addressed right here !

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Old 07-26-2008, 12:50 PM   #21
baddkat
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inside to inside, but if it is "that" close, ditch it and get a new one.
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Old 09-28-2008, 08:00 AM   #22
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Default Replaced sprocket and Chain now Speedo Wrong

I am hoping someone can tell me what to check on my speedo. I replaced the stock sprockets and chain on my 02 Kat 750 with an OEM kit from RK. The only difference I noted was the stock front sprocket was black and the new front sprocket is silver. any advice what to check?
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Old 11-11-2008, 03:27 PM   #23
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A bit off subject from lubes and sprockets, but I had my chain replaced about a month ago by a certified mechanic (gold series racing chain). The issue i am having it it has streched over 4 times now (and i know new chains will give a bit) and I can not move my tire back any further. Sugestions on taking a link (or a few) out at this point. Would this harm it?
Also, I have lubed the chain every week because i ride more then 45 miles back and forth to work every day, and it looks like it is rusting. could this be because of the warmer temp on the chain and way colder weather the Philadelphia area is getting right now?

Thanks!!
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Old 11-11-2008, 04:51 PM   #24
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Unless the mechanic is incompetent in matching your bike to a chain (& the right link count), it stretched because you kept adjusting it too tight each time you adjusted it, and by stretching it so far that you can't adjust further, you've totaled it. See the graphic I posted higher up about chain slack -- ideal slack on the centerstand should be right at 1.1" of play.

The rust is simply because of lack of lube at some time when it was exposed to water and/or debris; cleaning it properly should normally remove most or all of the rust.

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Old 11-11-2008, 05:11 PM   #25
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The chain has always been maintained by my mechanic (cause im to lazy) and i know when he does it right because I check it every time. It has always been just the right slack. The front and rear sprocket have been upgraded done (before i got it). and I was the one who picked the chain out at a local dealer. ( I miss Tricktape.com which my buddie owned) But, The rust thing, i dont get the most. I lube it once a week and I let it go 2 full rotations before I move to another area. I use the 75w 90 gear oil and a machine oiler can.
I spent over $125.00 for the chain a month and a 1/2 ago to be more exact. put over 400 miles on it since then. ( X and O ring)

Do you think that since the front and rear sprocket have been done he needed to take out more links then what he did? Or does it sound like a faulty chain??
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Old 11-11-2008, 05:48 PM   #26
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Since you didn't mention anything about the sprockets, I can't begin to guess about them -- need sprocket counts to make that call, and you ought to check the condition (and/or post pics) of the sprocket teeth themselves) while you're at it...


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Old 11-11-2008, 08:37 PM   #27
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I am trying to get the exact count from the guy who actually built the thing. He bought it brand new and did the work himself. he is also a family friend so it shouldn't be that hard. And again they were bought from Tricktape (which he worked at) so he is looking up the receipts.

Do you think removing a link or 2 would harm the chain at this point in the game?
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Old 11-11-2008, 10:08 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSXF 600 Guy View Post
Do you think removing a link or 2 would harm the chain at this point in the game?
Unless the chain was longer than it should have been for the particular tooth counts on the sprockets, removing links will just accelerate further wear (and potentially bind the suspension at a critical time).

I'm still going to guess:
(A) that the chain is shot, AND
(B) that the sprockets were shot as well (or at least one of them), AND
(C) that at least one of the sprockets is aluminum rather than steel (aluminum wears much faster, and because it's non-ferrous, doesn't polar-bond to group IV lubricants the way steel does -- meaning it needs to be lubed about 4 times as often to get the same consistent coverage).

IMHO: If you need a new chain and sprockets, given your riding distances and the lifespan of the existing chain, invest in an automated chain oiler, and a RK (WXSO Chain) + Vortex all-steel sprockets combo (the combo comes with a 20k mile warrantee).

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Old 11-14-2008, 10:51 AM   #29
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Thanks Cyber, I will def look into thr RKO combo.
The origonal owner did inform me that he did not put alum sprockets on it, but did say he did them when the bike had 2,500 miles on it (now has 22,000 miles on it). which now thinking and from what you posted sounds like I do have a bad sprocket or sprockets.
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Old 11-14-2008, 11:38 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GSXF 600 Guy View Post
say he did them when the bike had 2,500 miles on it (now has 22,000 miles on it). which now thinking and from what you posted sounds like I do have a bad sprocket or sprockets.
Could be.

Chains and sprockets should generally be replaced all at the same time, because these items wear together. If you place a brand new chain on a worn sprocket, the chain will very, very quickly wear to match the wear level of the sprockets -- and the same in reverses (old chain, new sprockets). Because the entire effective output of the bike is pushed through this combination, the parts will wear to whatever level the most worn component of the combination has (chain, front or rear sprocket).
Given that super-accelerated wear to match, I've seen cases where a brand new chain got shot literally in a matter of a thousand miles due to a badly worn sprocket in the set-up. A smaller-than-stock front sprocket will accelerate this wear even further (because the tighter the curve the chain has to turn around, the more wear it will encounter and the fewer teeth-to-roller interfaces share the power coming out of the engine).

Chain life as a whole (given all-new-everything) varies directly with the total power of the bike and the level of lubrication. On a Kat, with very good manual oiling habits, I typically get around 25k - 30k miles before my chain is stretched enough to be able to lift it off the rear sprocket at the back center by even 1 mm, which is when I tend to replace them (note the graphic is intentionally exaggerated for effect):


With a properly configured chain oiler, this lifespan for a Kat should theoretically reach 40k - 45k or so (but I never found out because the Kat with the oiler got stolen!).

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