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Turbo My Kat

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  • #31
    I say go for it. I played with a GPZ turbo a few years ago and had no idea what I was doing at first. There are two excellent books available that I highly recommend reading before you get started. The first is: Motorcycle turbocharging, supercharging, and Nitrous oxide by Joe Haile and the second is: Maximum Boost by Corky Bell. These books will tell you everything you need to know about turbocharging. A very good web site to visit is www.750turbo.com The guy's here have tried all kinds of turbo projects and will help you out. The best place I found for parts is Mr. Turbo in Texas. They sell several kits to turbo a bike and can custom build anything you want.
    I'd rather drag a knee then drag my pipes! I'm not afraid to go fast it's the crash and burn that sucks.
    2002 Katana 600
    1983 GL1100 Goldwing
    1970 BSA Rocket 3

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    • #32
      im in the middle of boosting my 750 right now....the draw through setup is by far the easiest, using one carb instead of 4. the mr. turbo kits all come draw through, but i prefer to make stuff then buy it

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      • #33
        Im curious to see how this works out. Most things I've read say to not do a draw thru setup on turbos because when you let off the throttle the entire compressor side of the turbo is subjected to vacuum. Apparently the turbo seals dont like that very much. Heres something you should check out: http://www.genericse.com/projects_gsx600.php
        The fuel injected Katana project

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        • #34
          Um, the compressor side will always be subject to vacuum when you let off. The air filter is the main restriction and it goes before the turbo no matter what. The biggest problems with draw through are pooling and less than ideal fuel atomization.
          sigpic
          »Ross Wendell
          »1992 Katana 600, 1987 MR2 turbo, 2005 Corolla

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          • #35
            The air filter doesnt provide anywhere near the resistance of a carb with a closed throttle in front of a turbo. Unless you've got a carb that has the throttle butterflies somewhere else, the second you let off the throttle everything behind the throttle plates are subjected to vacuum, including the turbo if its a draw thru setup.

            Edit: And the compressor side never sees vacuum in a normal setup. Theres a slight restriction from the filter, but if it went into vacuum when you let off why would you need a blow off valve? And fuel atomization would actually be better in that the fuel has more distance to properly mix into the air. The only drawback like you mentioned is pooling at low throttle when the air isnt moving fast.

            Um, you sure you know how turbos work?
            Last edited by TheSteve; 08-26-2009, 03:26 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
            The fuel injected Katana project

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            • #36
              Having owned many turbo cars I can tell you for a fact that there will be vacuum between the air filter and the turbo even if the throttle bodies are after the turbo (particularly at idle). The BOV is primarily to vent a pressure spike, as soon as the turbo spins down you'll be at vacuum again. Fuel atomization will not be as good because the longer path will cause the fuel droplets to combine, this is one reason direct injection is better than port injection.
              sigpic
              »Ross Wendell
              »1992 Katana 600, 1987 MR2 turbo, 2005 Corolla

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              • #37
                Trust me, ive owned turbo cars too. The vacuum at idle is minimal, as the engine isnt drawing much air. Theres air flow, sure, but the actual vacuum is minimal unless your filter is completely clogged in which case vacuum will be present at all RPM, increasing as engine speed does. There is never any significant vacuum in any of the charge pipes, vacuum only exists behind the throttle body. Air flow is present everywhere.

                Fuel droplets wont combine, they evaporate in the airstream. Direct injection is there for an entirely different reason. With DI you can run leaner and advance the timing a ton because the fuel doesnt exist to support preignition up until its ready to fire. Normally if too high of a compression ratio is used the fuel can preignite but this isnt possible on a DI system. In fact poor atomization is one of the drawbacks of a DFI system. If you look at the engines used in F1 racing cars the injectors are actually mounted as far back from the intake valves as possible. This causes a terrible idle but in a race car full atomization at full throttle is more important than idle quality. Look at the Dual Stage Fuel Injection on the Honda CBR series bikes. These have 8 injectors. The 4 closest to the valves are the low speed low power injectors. The 4 in the airbox are the high speed injectors. If closer was better as you say then all of the injectors would be in the throttle bodies as close to the valves as possible and they would only need 4 of them.

                The point I'm trying to make is the miniscule vacuum between the air filter and turbo inlet won't do much, but having full engine vacuum applied to the oil seals may cause problems. I don't know if its just specific turbos that have an issue with this or not but its definitely something to look into before doing it.
                Last edited by TheSteve; 08-26-2009, 04:50 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
                The fuel injected Katana project

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                • #38
                  I say go for it. The only thing you should be concerned with IMO is the reliability of the motor once completed and the over all package of the bike being able to handle the extra power.
                  The other thing is why? I know you want to do something different and I get that but why a turbo? If your after horsepower then buy a bigger bike, one that was designed to go fast in the first place.
                  I don't know because I haven't looked for availability but another thing you would be wise to look for if you are going to go through with this would be an extended swingarm. I don't know how much you plan to boost or what you think you may have for hp but I can tell you right now (and yes I know it's a different animal) I can name 3-4 guys that are boosting busa's and throwing down numbers like anyplace between 260 and 286hp at the rear wheel using no more then 7lbs of boost. I don't much care what you guys say about the weight of the bike I have one, and a busa and I am telling you now the kat is not as heavy. So figure you are gonna throw down a number like 150hp on the dyno that brings you close to the wheel horespower of a stock busa, she is gonna wheelie and wheelie in a big way if you don't stretch it out.
                  sigpic
                  2004 hayabusa LE-my ride
                  2006 ninja 250-the wifes ride

                  Riding is not just something you do, its a way of life.

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                  • #39
                    My kat dyno'd at 130hp with a stock pre 600 swingarm and 160/60 tire on a post98 wheel and I really haven't had any problems with accidental wheelies for the most part. I would say if anything if ur getting anywhere near 130-150rwhp on a kat, u should get at the very min. a wider wheel like the post98 which is 1 inch wider then a pre wheel. But I would recommend getting a swingarm made by Kreylyn, its 3/4 of an inch longer then a stock pre 600 swingarm I think and you can run a 180 or 190 tire on either a Gixer 5.5 inch or Busa 6 inch wheel.
                    Last edited by mreedohio; 08-26-2009, 11:43 PM.
                    Chrome Project Part 1
                    http://www.freewebs.com/mreedohio/

                    Chrome Project Part 2

                    http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=91192

                    Chrome Project Part 3
                    http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=91192&page=30

                    Chrome Project Finished
                    http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=107586

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                    • #40
                      you can run a draw thru setup when you carbon seal the turbo , the standard seal wont hold and will be forced to leak which will fill your intake with oil and cause all sorts of problems. draw thru can be done and is alot on vw's which is where i have done it. garrett turbo should all be able to be carbon sealed. but really you would need to have the turbo up close to the intake which wold just be hard to do . you would be better off creating a sealed box around the carbies to create equal pressure on the outside and inside so you dont need to change the seals. and run blowthru. lots of little tricks , like filling you floats so they dont crush under pressure etc. read up and give it a try. just run low boost unless u want to intercool which u cant do with drawthru.
                      cheers brenton
                      1988 "redheaded step child" 600

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by mreedohio View Post
                        My kat dyno'd at 130hp with a stock pre 600 swingarm and 160/60 tire on a post98 wheel and I really haven't had any problems with accidental wheelies for the most part. I would say if anything if ur getting anywhere near 130-150rwhp on a kat, u should get at the very min. a wider wheel like the post98 which is 1 inch wider then a pre wheel. But I would recommend getting a swingarm made by Kreylyn, its 3/4 of an inch longer then a stock pre 600 swingarm I think and you can run a 180 or 190 tire on either a Gixer 5.5 inch or Busa 6 inch wheel.
                        Wow, how'd you get that kinda power? Sounds pretty cool.

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by snoozy View Post
                          Wow, how'd you get that kinda power? Sounds pretty cool.
                          I got it pretty easy, I just swapped a 1127 engine in.
                          Chrome Project Part 1
                          http://www.freewebs.com/mreedohio/

                          Chrome Project Part 2

                          http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=91192

                          Chrome Project Part 3
                          http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=91192&page=30

                          Chrome Project Finished
                          http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=107586

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                          • #43
                            Did you have any problems with the install? Sounds like a bad azz.

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by snoozy View Post
                              Did you have any problems with the install? Sounds like a bad azz.
                              None at all, basically bolt in and go.
                              Chrome Project Part 1
                              http://www.freewebs.com/mreedohio/

                              Chrome Project Part 2

                              http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=91192

                              Chrome Project Part 3
                              http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=91192&page=30

                              Chrome Project Finished
                              http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=107586

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                Can you still use the pre 600 cdi? Whats the difference in RPM? Would it run right?

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