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Best Fuel Option - Bronze, Silver, Gold/Premium

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  • #16
    good information.. thank you.. will start using 87 and try to see the difference
    2001 GSX600F Katana Yellow

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    • #17
      If you use anything other than 87 id wager a guess the only difference would be paying more.

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      • #18
        i guess the 1100 is different this is what the service manual says

        "FUEL AND OIL RECOMMENDATION
        FUEL
        Use only unleaded or low-lead type gasoline of at least 85-95
        pump octane(\M) method or 89 octane or higher rated by the
        Research Method."
        1990 katana 1100

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Jeckel View Post
          Makes sense. I have seen some threads here about a "spark advancer" (or something) would that benefit from higher octane?
          my assumption is the timing Suzuki gave the Katana is conservative, even for 87 octane. Therefore a slight advance should be ok but running higher octane will reduce the chances of pre-detonation. Factory Pro doesn't say anything on there site about running higher octane with their advancer so i'd assume 87 is still just fine

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          • #20
            Originally posted by kdo58 View Post
            i guess the 1100 is different
            No, it's not. If spending more money on fuel for no reason helps you sleep better, knock yourself out.

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            • #21
              Not to beat a dead horse here, but is Ethanol bad for a carbureted engine such as our 600 and 750's? I have an 02 750. Only 91 and higher octane grades have no Ethanol added to the mix here in Canada. I am well aware that the higher the octane level doesn't mean better fuel. Throwing money away if you engine doesnt require it. But worried that the ethanol will play havick with our carbs. Thoughts???

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              • #22
                Only if not properly stored.
                "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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                • #23
                  This is definitely interesting and a lot of stuff I didn't know. I've always ran super cause it's what I've been told but I'm going to reconsider that for sure. Good info.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by 92xjunker View Post
                    Only if not properly stored.
                    Meaning what? Not adding in a fuel stabilizer before putting away for the winter? The PO filled the tank with 94 and added some stabilizer to the tank. I start the bike and let it run for 15 mins every couple of weeks. Not sure its good to do that as condensation could build up in the cylinders as its cooling back down to -15 celcius for another week or two.

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                    • #25
                      15 mins might be too long unless it's still -15. I'm assuming it is when you're doing so, more mentioning for other peeps. Generally running more than 10 minutes without moving is going to get the engine REALLY hot.
                      1998 Katana 750
                      1992 Katana 1100
                      2006 Ninja 250

                      2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by MotorBikeMike View Post
                        Meaning what? Not adding in a fuel stabilizer before putting away for the winter? The PO filled the tank with 94 and added some stabilizer to the tank. I start the bike and let it run for 15 mins every couple of weeks. Not sure its good to do that as condensation could build up in the cylinders as its cooling back down to -15 celcius for another week or two.
                        Condensation forms when things warm up. That's why steam comes out of the tailpipe when you first start a vehicle, and why soda or beer cans get condensation when you pull them out of a fridge. Cooling down doesn't cause condensation. That said, if you're going to run an engine in winter just to keep it going, make sure you warm it up to the point that steam stops coming out of the exhaust so you don't cause condensation to sit in the chamber or exhaust.

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by ygolohcysp View Post
                          Condensation forms when things warm up. That's why steam comes out of the tailpipe when you first start a vehicle, and why soda or beer cans get condensation when you pull them out of a fridge. Cooling down doesn't cause condensation. That said, if you're going to run an engine in winter just to keep it going, make sure you warm it up to the point that steam stops coming out of the exhaust so you don't cause condensation to sit in the chamber or exhaust.
                          Good to know.....Thanks. How do you tell if the engine is getting to hot? I don't think there is a temp gauge...is there? Havent spent too much time with the bike yet. Its locked up in the shed and only see it every couple of weeks. Owned it for a month so far.

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                          • #28
                            Well, you just have to get a feel for how it runs, and notice when it's different. You're right, there is no gauge, though I've seen posts before how people have added them. But keep in mind that it's an air cooled motor. There is an oil cooler on it, but still no fans on that. In winter, it's not as bad on them because it's so cold out, but in warmer months, starting it up and letting it idle will overheat it pretty quick (like, 5-10 minutes at a guess, you don't have to worry about traffic lights or the occasional traffic slow down). As long as you're moving, you're fine. For doing tuning like syncing the carbs, people usually put a box fan in front of the bike so there's air movement over the engine.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by ygolohcysp View Post
                              Well, you just have to get a feel for how it runs, and notice when it's different. You're right, there is no gauge, though I've seen posts before how people have added them. But keep in mind that it's an air cooled motor. There is an oil cooler on it, but still no fans on that. In winter, it's not as bad on them because it's so cold out, but in warmer months, starting it up and letting it idle will overheat it pretty quick (like, 5-10 minutes at a guess, you don't have to worry about traffic lights or the occasional traffic slow down). As long as you're moving, you're fine. For doing tuning like syncing the carbs, people usually put a box fan in front of the bike so there's air movement over the engine.
                              That being said (thank you btw for the edumacation ), Is it possible to install an oil temp gauge anywhere on this engine? That way it would be possible to keep an eye on the temp. Not sure where would be a good spot to tap into the oil system. Oil pan possibly or oil cooler inlet line?

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                              • #30
                                Generally, it's a waiste of time unless your riding in very hot temps, 100* or more. The engine is designed to take a lot of heat. Use better oil in the hotter months and you'll be fine.
                                "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
                                spammer police
                                USAF veteran
                                If your a veteran, join the KR veterans group

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