Help with troubleshooting

[JinxXx0085]

I am almost sure that this is the place to post this... As you can see what bike I have in my sigature...
With that said, I took my bike out for a ride on Monday to a town and back it was ~30 miles one way (60 mile total). After I got back home, I have had grabbed something to eat and so on. It was about 30 to 45 minutes before I was ready to head out. I went to start the bike, nothing happened at all. The lights and panel were lit up. Nothing else were turning over. Just dead. So this led me to believe it has to be something electrical.
I checked the battery it read 100% / 12.8 volts... So I tried starting it again... Still nothing. I decided to just pull the fuse to ignition for **** and giggles. I put it back after a few seconds. Tried to start it, it started up just fine. WTF? I really doubt it that my fiddling around with this fuse fixed the problem. So is there something loose or what?

This dude thought it was the alternator that isn't charging the battery but that was not the problem. Then he thought maybe something was loose where I pull in the clutch lever.

So, I want to hear from my beloved KR's take on this.

[DOCTORNITRO]

Could be a coincidence with the fuse, or not. Could also be a faulty clutch safety switch or kickstand switch(if trying to start in gear)

[scottynoface]

just to be clear, you did hit the kill switch right? Every once in a while my bike won't start and I realize that I'm an idiot

[razor]

...what you describe is very similar to what happen to a friend of mine... everything lit up in his bike but it did not start... he tried different things and nothing until he realized that he was not using the clutch when starting the bike. He's no newbi on bikes but for some reason he just forgot to do it. Maybe, just maybe this happened in your situation; if it doesn't happen again then maybe that was it. I thought I would share this with you as a possibility. Anyway, good luck!

[zcphoto]

when i first got my bike the clutch safety switch had come unplugged right at the clutch lever. it took me forever to figure it out. might want to just check your safety switches to make sure they're not loose.

[JinxXx0085]

just to be clear, you did hit the kill switch right? Every once in a while my bike won't start and I realize that I'm an idiot

LOL! I certainly did made sure of it as I had that happened to me before. I think I might have a faulty switch in clutch as I know for sure that my kickstand switch works beautifully. The switch to clutches have been checked by the other dude. So hopefully its ok now?
If not, its the switches that would have to be replaced?

[scottynoface]

If not, its the switches that would have to be replaced?

I bought a clutch switch from bikebandit and ended up just jumping the circuit. Still have the brand new one in the bag if you need one.

[beherenow71]

Could be your battery connection isn't tight. Had similar issues with my 97 kat. Turned out the negative cable screw was bottoming out and therefore not tight.

[md86]

Or maybe the fuse had a lil crap built up on it , so when you pulled it , it knocked it off . It could happen .

[JinxXx0085]

LOL md86. Who knows? I need to fire the bike up and see if it even starts. If it does, I will have to take it out for a spin but its too damned windy

Please let wind die!!!

I will be sure to post an update once I try to fire the bike up again.

[JinxXx0085]

Oh, here's an update... The bike is running just fine. I still don't know what caused thr trouble. It might be loose connection in the clutch switch or something.

[The CyberPoet]

Oh, here's an update... The bike is running just fine. I still don't know what caused thr trouble. It might be loose connection in the clutch switch or something.

Well, as a relatively new owner, you can help excise some of the electrical demons for good by doing some preventative maint on the various pig-tail connectors on the bike -- pull them apart, spray them out with electrical cleaner, allow to dry (90 seconds?), examine (clean further or repair if necessary), then pack them solid with dielectric grease and reassemble. Go on to the next connector, and work your way all the way around the bike.

This is really a case where an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure...

Meanwhile, I'm betting your clutch lever is bent just a hair at the pivot, and depending on what position your hand is in when you pull back on the clutch, it may or may not engage the clutch safety switch... But that's just a guess, based on it being quite common on previously-owned Kats.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

__________________________________________________ ________
CyberPoet's Katana Maintence and Upgrade Parts Offerings
The Best Metal Steel Aluminum Motorcycle Tire Valves in the World, plus lots of motorcycle & Katana (GSX600F / GSX750F) specific help files.

[JinxXx0085]

Cool Poet! Thanks for the tip. This is a perfect timing for that as most of the fairings are off for sanding/repaint
Now all I need to do is go out and buy that electrical cleaner and grease.

[The CyberPoet]

Cool Poet! Thanks for the tip. This is a perfect timing for that as most of the fairings are off for sanding/repaint
Now all I need to do is go out and buy that electrical cleaner and grease.

You can score the electrical cleaner at Home Depot, Lowes, most hardware stores in the electrical isle (big spray container, price varies from $5 to $12; although not good for the environment, my experience tells me ones based on tri-chloro-ethelene are particularly good -- I normally use CRC brand "Lectra Clean", available at Home Depot).

Dielectric grease (aka bulb grease) can be obtained at just about any auto parts store, and occasionally via the hardware store. Get the tube -- 3 oz tube should do the whole bike pretty much; avoid the pressurized container of the same stuff (puts out too much volume for the tiny connectors on the Kat, stuff goes everywhere but where it should). Don't skimp by using another type of grease -- although dielectric grease looks like nothing but vasoline, dielectric grease is specifically formulated to absorb excess electrons from dis-similar metals in contact with each other to prevent rusting/corrosion in the connectors.

Any electrical connection can benefit from this treatment, including bulb sockets, the contact points on switches (high-/low-beam switch, run-stop switch), battery terminals, etc.

Repeat every 5 to 10 years for a very long, robust bike life

Good Luck!
=-= The CyberPoet

__________________________________________________ ________
CyberPoet's Katana Maintence and Upgrade Parts Offerings
The Best Metal Steel Aluminum Motorcycle Tire Valves in the World, plus lots of motorcycle & Katana (GSX600F / GSX750F) specific help files.

[JinxXx0085]

Cool!! I am glad I posted an update cause I got some useful info from you. You rock Poet! That was a lot of help.
When you said not good for environment - care to elaborate on how its not good? I am kind of a freak when it comes to enviornment. I try to avoid those bad stuff if possible even if it means shelling out extra money for those products that are better. Thanks!