Originally posted by FJCharlie
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Reading the title of this thread, I thought you were suffering from some sort of medievel ailment. Glad your ok . Can't help with the bike probs though sorryI have embarked on the road of modding. Even if you BOLT ON new parts to a bike, there will be someone somewhere that has the same combination. With the Kat, you have a unique platform. Sure, some parts might be from other bikes, but no one will have the same combination. It will be truly yours and unique.
-Unholy m-Current project: Un-Katchable
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Originally posted by arsenic View PostThat's a good call. Considering the "mechanic" probably has about the same idea as you do about them.
anyways we gonna clean them with wd40 as best wwe can, reasemble and give it a try. ill post pics, and synch carbs later.
btw yesterday i measured consumption it was 6.3L on open road, and 7.6L on highway, tested speed with case and my girl 180kmh short time (highway) my crusing speed was 120-130kmh on highway around 6-7k rpm..
ok, thanks guys, talk to you soonsigpic
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ok, carbs done.
bowls were filthy with surface rust, wd40 did great job there
all jets were clean but we cleaned them just to be sure, i repositioned jet needles to position #3, they have 5 positions my mistake. what does that mean? 5 positions is stock or ? acording to my friend its stock (in a lack of words).
1st and 4th are 115
2nd and 3rd are 112.5Attached Files- resized_DSCF5629.JPG (65.4 KB, 28 views)
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WD40 will not clean out pilot jets, or other passages that may have gelled or varnished fuel in them. To clean those, you need to remove all parts and dip the carbs. Sure, it will clean the rust powder off the bottom of the bowls, but that's about it. You need carb cleaner to remove varnish deposits and other nasties.
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what i found is that one of the bowls was cracked on a fuel release screw on bottom.
this happened due to some idiot before me overtightening the screw.
i glued it with epoxy metal (glue resistant to fuel) and i hope for the best. this is for some time, ill try to find a new bowl but thats like finding a needle in the haystack.
my bike did smell a bit on gas but i thought it kinda normal, it wasnt to bad...
this could be my problem from the start because a tiny crack will expand in the heat an give it a nice droppy leak.
and what i didnt mention, air mix #1 and #4 were 2 3/4 turns, #2 and #3 were 2 4/6 turnt out. set them all as factory 2 1/4 turns out
damn :/sigpic
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You might find that your screws were factory for a Euro spec bike - they have different needles and jets between 1/4 and 2/3 so possiblydifferent idle screw settings too???
Well - on checking - if you fall into the category of "all other Euro models", then yes - 2 1/4 turns is correct. Looks like it was roughly set for Germany / Switzerland with a factory setting of 2 5/8 ... unless it is a restricted model which gets a flat 2! WTF!!?? (It's the 750F Euro models with different factory settings between 1/4 and 2/3. My bad!)Last edited by TRPUT; 12-07-2011, 05:38 AM.
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Originally posted by TRPUT View PostYou might find that your screws were factory for a Euro spec bike - they have different needles and jets between 1/4 and 2/3 so probably different idle screw settings too???Attached FilesLast edited by FJCharlie; 12-07-2011, 05:31 AM.sigpic
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Where's Arsenic?
Why would the Euro 750s be set to run leaner in the centre 2 cylinders - either with different needles/jets or idle screw variations? Since the centre 2 cylinders would be hotter, I could understand running them slightly richer to help cool them and they could handle more fuel without fouling. What am I missing this time???
Aussie bikes fail to get a mention. I wonder if we get Swiss, Other Euro, USA or Canadian spec bikes???
Originally posted by FJCharlie View Postaccording to manual all should be set 2 1/4 no matter of size of needles. my carbs have mark 19E0 and thats recomended setting for them..
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