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Mechanics 101 Can't get it to run right? Find a trick to add HP?
From the first oil change to completely rebuilding the engine,
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Old 08-28-2009, 11:15 PM   #1
rockin6d
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If this kind of problem has been covered elsewhere just point me to the thread. I've been looking for similar but haven't found any.

a brief history,
Took the bike in for a starter replacement, valve adjust and tune up. Mechanic had it a looooong time, almost 2 months, they claimed waiting on new starter to get shipped in.. When i get it back it doesn't have the snapy revs like it used to, I've lost 9 mpg, and several mph off top end with a loss in all round engine performance. They even broke the glass covering the idiot lights & lost several chrome fairing bolts. I've been bringing it back into shape after the shop's damage but i still have one problem that is getting worse.

Problem,

Started the day after i brought it home from the shop with smoking and smelling fuel on startup. then went to being hard to start. Then got to where it acts like its locked up when i try to start it,(manually push through a couple of compression strokes and the batt will then turn it over ok). Has gotten to the point it starts like it's been majorly flooded. Yesterday i noticed fuel dripping (left a damp spot about 2 inch across after setting overnight) out the bottom of the fairing. today i put the bike on center stand while at work and noticed fuel dripping ( wet spot, almost a puddle about the size of a dinner plate in 6 hours) from the right side of the engine. also notice the oil that i changed 8 days ago was pure black in the sight glass. Changed oil! drained almost 5 quarts out of engine that was thin as water (was valvoline motorcycle 20w50) and smelled like fuel.

Ouch!!

Opinions, did the shop really screw up the carb sync? they wern't supposed to uncork any of the jets/screws/covers, just supposed to syncronize them. Is the fuel shut off not shuttin off? Or what else could let fuel get into the oil besides flooding through the carbs? What do i need to check when i open it up?

Bike = 2003 Kat 750, K&N air filter, no other engine mods, 35,000 miles.

Oh yeah,, Got aprox 2200 on it since i got it back from the shop. reason it went in was for the starter quitin, and while the shop has it might as well adjust valves and basic tune up
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Last edited by rockin6d; 08-28-2009 at 11:19 PM.. Reason: additional info.
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Old 08-28-2009, 11:37 PM   #2
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I don't know what they did to it but def. sounds to me like they screwed with the carbs other then sync. If they are setup like the pre's then they are vacuum and unless the petcock is bad when it's not running no fuel is passing through it. In other words there is no fuel shut of. If the diaphrams in the petcock are bad they will allow fuel to pass through when it's not running and then it can over flow past the bowls and into the cylinders.
As far as the way it's running and starting, it can be fuel related or it also sounds like they could have gotten the valves to tight.
I don't know if any of that helps you and I don't know that I am 100% right but thats what it sounds like to me.
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Old 08-29-2009, 12:23 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockin6d View Post
Is the fuel shut off not shuttin off? Or what else could let fuel get into the oil besides flooding through the carbs? What do i need to check when i open it up?
The flooding would be a result of the float needles sticking. I suspect from sitting for so long. It is flooding through the carbs.

What part of "open it up" are you talking about? The carbs?
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Old 08-29-2009, 01:13 AM   #4
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Its your fuel shut off not shutting off. I just went throught the EXACT same problem with my 2000 750. I pulled the tank to get the air box off. When I got the airbox off, it had about a quart of fuel in it. I drained a total of 7 quarts out of the oil pan/ airbox. I took the petcock off and pulled the diaphram apart. didn't see any tears in it, so I cleaned it all up and put it back together. Been running great ever since. Its worth a shot and make sure you run fresh oil through the motor and then change it before riding it. Fuel in the oil will wash down the cylinder walls and cause the rings to burn up.
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Old 08-29-2009, 02:18 AM   #5
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combination of leaking petcock (assuming it's not set on prime) AND bad/sticking/loose float assy in at least one carb. the crappy running could well be from the float height being wrong (too much fuel in the bowl). pull the carbs and check that each float assy is firmly seated, and the 2 o-rings are snug. set the float height to 14.5mm. DRAIN AND CHANGE THE OIL IMMEDIATELY. if it's polluted with gas you're gonna do some major engine damage. drain the oil cooler too. do both of these projects before running it any more. also, replace the crush washer on the oil drain plug eery oil change. only costs ya a buck, and avoids an annoying little oil drip
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Old 08-29-2009, 09:22 AM   #6
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I've already changed the oil, did that at work before i brought it home. Didn't think about the oil cooler though, thanks for the reminder.

I'll open it up as far as i need to to get it fixed, i just don't want to have to do it twice!

Thanks everyone. Please keep the ideas/reminders coming in. I want to make sure i cover all possibilities when i go into it. I ride too hard and too often to take a chance on my old feeble mind forgetting or missing anything.
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Old 08-29-2009, 12:05 PM   #7
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Missing bolts..... cracked dash....... bike not running right after the work was done...... they are out!.

Sounds like a possible muff up of the valve adjustment. Where did the K&N come from. During or before the service? Causes a lean condition. So many questions to ask.

How did the bike run before the work? Excluding the starter problem.
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Old 08-29-2009, 12:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kfreak View Post
Missing bolts..... cracked dash....... bike not running right after the work was done...... they are out!.

Sounds like a possible muff up of the valve adjustment. Where did the K&N come from. During or before the service? Causes a lean condition. So many questions to ask.

How did the bike run before the work? Excluding the starter problem.
K & N the day i bought it, Put on 30,000+ miles - bike ran strong. It'ld take a good rider and a litter bike to stay ahead of me strong.

Valves were starting to get noisy when the starter quit. After push starting this monster a couple times it went to the shop. Shop came highly reccomended & i trusted the reccomends. MY MISTAKE!! Never again will I let someone else do the work because i don't have the tools at hand. but I'm still p***ed and I digress,,back to topic.

I'm expecting to have to purchase the tools needed and to re-adjust both valves and carbs, myself. I just want to cover any and all possible problems when I go into it. especially the fuel gettin into the oil part. Questions..ask them, thats how we learn.

PS - The shop was Metric Cycles in Tulsa OK. The only recommendation I'll give them is for the biggest crooks and worst mechanics I've ever seen.
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Old 08-29-2009, 02:12 PM   #9
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there really isnt anything too special you'll need for either job than the valve adjustor tool (TheCyberPoet has um cheap) and a good set of metric feeler gauges. you might want a 8mm box end wrench you can put a bend in to work the lock valve stem lock nuts easier. torque wrench for the valve cover fasteners perhaps, they are VERY easy to strip out, which you really do NOT want to do.

carb cleaning could be a good excuse for buying a compressor, as you want lots and lots of air to go along with the carb cleaner
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Old 08-29-2009, 02:24 PM   #10
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Address the gas in oil first. It could be time for a petcock re-build. The "O" rings go bad. That should solve that problem. Unless you put it on prime and left it on prime. If you did leave it on prime and it overflowed, you have sticky needle vales for the floats in the carb's. Do your valve adjustment on a COLD engine only. If you have a sync tool, check the carb's for balance after the valve adjustment. The shop did solve one of your problems.... bad starter.

Last edited by Kfreak; 08-29-2009 at 02:28 PM..
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