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93 gsx 600

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  • #61
    I thought id try the bolt trick as when i grab the stud it move like a 3rd of a turn when i heat it right up.. but i cant grib it tight enough to turn it anymore.

    Can only hope otherwise like you say its a drill job

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    • #62
      If everything is stock including the carbs, I would start at the factory specs and work my way from there including fuel floats. I think the spec is 2.25 turns out or fatten it up a .25 turn and go from there...would need to read the manual again.

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      • #63
        Originally posted by maughanorama View Post
        I thought id try the bolt trick as when i grab the stud it move like a 3rd of a turn when i heat it right up.. but i cant grib it tight enough to turn it anymore.

        Can only hope otherwise like you say its a drill job
        It may just work for you then, the welder heated the stud pretty good too, mine never budged. Soak it in aerokroil for a few days first.
        We may not always win the game, but we never lose the party.

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        • #64
          Originally posted by rperry03 View Post
          If everything is stock including the carbs, I would start at the factory specs and work my way from there including fuel floats. I think the spec is 2.25 turns out or fatten it up a .25 turn and go from there...would need to read the manual again.
          Yer my haynes manual says 1.5 im in uk but whats the difference between the us and uk models ? I have all stock carbs.main jet is 110 in all 4.

          Once i get the header pipes welded to the collector.. (they are just pushed in at mo. Prev owner lett it like this )ill get onto tuning it up. Im gunna make my own manometer. I have the tubing and t pieces.. i have to say that this is my first mechanical play with a bike.. all seems pretty straight forward so far except the difference between the us and uk models
          Last edited by maughanorama; 09-04-2017, 01:55 AM.

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          • #65
            I always thought with any carb 2 turns is full open, your gonna need a vaccum tool to set them properly. 1.5 sounds about right and itll take some tweaking from there
            We may not always win the game, but we never lose the party.

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            • #66
              Im clearly no welder... welds in the nuts looked cold even though i had it set to max. Anyway welded a bolt to the stud and boom.. we in for .2 of a turn the snap! Doh extract time
              Last edited by maughanorama; 09-05-2017, 11:44 AM.

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              • #67
                Any one had experience with the grabit double sided extractors.. looking at youtube they look the best of the budgets.
                Last edited by maughanorama; 09-05-2017, 09:38 AM.

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                • #68
                  Ok update on project...
                  Still has a sheard bolt in the head from the headers.. i think i may have to helicoil it.
                  I thought i would change the front wheel bearing as i was in the mood. I undone the bolt on the pinch bolt and an inch of metal fell of the fork with the pinch bolt still init.. so i have bought new forks.

                  Is there an easy way to change the forks like onside at a time or should i just jack her up strip the front of and rebuild ?

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                  • #69
                    Jack it up, then one at a time. Safety first...
                    "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
                    spammer police
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                    If your a veteran, join the KR veterans group

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                    • #70
                      Originally posted by maughanorama View Post
                      Ok update on project...
                      Still has a sheard bolt in the head from the headers.. i think i may have to helicoil it.
                      I thought i would change the front wheel bearing as i was in the mood. I undone the bolt on the pinch bolt and an inch of metal fell of the fork with the pinch bolt still init.. so i have bought new forks.

                      Is there an easy way to change the forks like onside at a time or should i just jack her up strip the front of and rebuild ?
                      You would need to remove the wheel, calipers, cross brace + fender to get a fork off. At that point, you can just drop em both at the same time.

                      If they need a rebuild, I'd do that at that point.

                      Remember to loosen the top fork caps before loosening the triple clamps. Makes it a lot easier to get them off that way.

                      Krey
                      93 750 Kat



                      Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

                      "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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                      • #71
                        Happens from going too tight on the fork bolts, dont be an ape putting the new front together, its actually super easy to break the clamp parts on the forks. Sounds kinda like a money pit. If you bought original forks from ebay may as well get seals and oil and maybe even bushings and go back together right and good instead of leaking or maybe even out of oil.
                        We may not always win the game, but we never lose the party.

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                        • #72
                          yer previous owner ape'd the pinch bolt, evidence was the crappy filler and paint that was ontop of it when it fell out.

                          to be fair besides my time which is free (unless you talk to my mrs of course, she will say other wise) i have not spent too much money on this yet.
                          parts list=

                          trike 750 GBP
                          tank 50 GBP
                          new windscreen 5 GBP
                          new front bearings 5 GBP
                          numerous bolts and fairing bolts 30 GBP
                          shocks complete 50 GBP (oil seals are intacked)
                          exhaust is solid, just where the headers go into the collector needs welding or clamping as they are loose no rust.

                          so unless theres more suprises, almost positive there will be.
                          Last edited by maughanorama; 09-15-2017, 05:25 AM.

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