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Bleeding Brakes??

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  • Bleeding Brakes??

    When i change my back brakes do i need to bleed those like i would in a car?? thanks
    Hi my nickname is JC, I have a 2004 600 Katanna with a Hindle exuast sytem on it. I like riding and playing NCAA Football 2007 & Madden 2007 on playstation II.

  • #2
    Yep. Changing the front ones too right?
    Florida, the only place where you need your windshield wipers and sunglasses. At the same time.

    05/02 1216 Kabandit
    18v Rigid Drill
    Craftsman Rubber Mallet with duct tape mod
    New Balance 765 running shoes from 10th Grade, with duct tape and super glue mod

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    • #3
      Brakes

      The front seem to be fine??? Should i replace both at the same time??
      Hi my nickname is JC, I have a 2004 600 Katanna with a Hindle exuast sytem on it. I like riding and playing NCAA Football 2007 & Madden 2007 on playstation II.

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      • #4
        Oh Ya

        What the difference between stint brakes and org or organic brakes? Thanks
        Hi my nickname is JC, I have a 2004 600 Katanna with a Hindle exuast sytem on it. I like riding and playing NCAA Football 2007 & Madden 2007 on playstation II.

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        • #5
          Have you ever changed the front? Most everyone uses the front brakes WAY more than the rear, so if the rear is toast then the fronts are definitely toast....
          Florida, the only place where you need your windshield wipers and sunglasses. At the same time.

          05/02 1216 Kabandit
          18v Rigid Drill
          Craftsman Rubber Mallet with duct tape mod
          New Balance 765 running shoes from 10th Grade, with duct tape and super glue mod

          Comment


          • #6
            If you are just replacing pads you don't need to bleed the brakes.

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            • #7
              You should bleed the brakes. You should also completely flush the old fluid out annually.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by athlon161
                What the difference between stint brakes and org or organic brakes? Thanks
                (A) your bike takes sintered brakes. It is not designed to operate correctly with organics. The differences have to do with the formulation (sintered have bits of soft metals in them) and the way the calipers are designed -- sintered stay in contact with the rotor with no pressure when you release the brakes, while organics are supposed to physically draw back away from the rotor, PLUS the type of rotors (sintered go with steel rotors, organics with cast iron rotors). Thus, the caliber design has to encompass that difference, and yours are designed for sintered. Ditto for your rotors.
                The advantages of sintered is that they constantly sweep the rotor to clear off rain and other debris, and they come up to temp fast, so your brakes work ideally in virtually all conditions. Organics run the entire brake system cooler, which is good for a touring bike going long distances, but not good for city traffic (where you are on your brakes a lot and they need to be up to snuff at any instant).

                (B) When you replace the rear pads, you need to thoroughly clean the rear caliper pistons and either replace the piston seals, or at least make sure they are in good shape and seated correctly. If you are using Suzuki OEM pads, everything goes together like it came apart; if you are using EBC pads, the L-shaped shim behind the pads needs to come out before you reassemble them.

                (C) I carry the seals here, as well as a full piston-cup and seal kit (in case you don't like the idea of cleaning your pistons OR in case your pistons are pitted or damaged). I also carry SpeedBleeders for your bike to help make the bleeding process painless.

                Cheers,
                =-= The CyberPoet
                Remember The CyberPoet

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