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Touring 411 Stop into this area for all things touring related. Get all the info. you need
on how to prepare for long rides and tours. Whether you're a true iron butt
or a beginner to long rides, this is where you want to be.

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Old 06-12-2016, 08:45 PM   #1
B-Man
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Default So I Raised My Bars This Weekend...

Thought I would share some information and parts resources, just in case someone else wants to do the same project.

2005 Katana 750 - 2" Handlebar Raise

I bought a 12" long piece of 6061 aluminum round bar stock and cut four 2" spacers with a band saw. I used a drill press to drill a 3/8" hole down the center of each one.

I bought a clutch and dual throttle cable kit from VenhillUSA. I was absolutely stunned at how complete the kit was. Everything you need to make quality, custom length cables for your Kat.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Venhill-Univ...EczAvg&vxp=mtr

So I noticed that the factory cables have a rubber sleeve on them to protect them from abrading on the steering stem, frame rails, etc. I decided to simply cut the end off the factory cable and reuse all of the hardware I could, minus the longer housing and cable. I slid the factory sleeve over the new cable housing so it would be protected like the old one was and then went about routing them and measuring for length.

When I finished I ended up with proper length cables with no binding and routed like the originals were, save for the clutch cable which is now outside the carbs.

I bought new brake lines from Sixty61com. I called and had them add 2" in length. Knowing what I know now, the standard length lines would have worked just fine. The configuration I went with is what they call 2F, which is two lines at the master cylinder, each running directly to the calipers.

http://www.sixty61.com/product-p/cmblf021.htm

The lines are top quality and come with nice banjo bolts and copper crush washers for making everything seal up nice.

I bought the longer stem bolts from BoltDepot.com. With standard shipping, the 4 - 10mm x 1.5mm x 130mm Grade 12.9 socket head bolts and the 4 nylon insert Grade 10.9 nuts cost $16.

The choke cable was long enough as is, once I did a little re-routing.

Anyway, the whole project set me back about $200, but I needed to replace the brake lines so that really didn't count.

I took it for a test drive this afternoon and it is absolutely amazing how much of a difference it makes raising the bars just 2". I plan on doing a longer trip next weekend and I'll report back with the results, if anyone is curious.
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Last edited by B-Man; 06-12-2016 at 08:47 PM..
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Old 06-13-2016, 07:47 AM   #2
Kreylyn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B-Man View Post
Thought I would share some information and parts resources, just in case someone else wants to do the same project.

2005 Katana 750 - 2" Handlebar Raise

I bought a 12" long piece of 6061 aluminum round bar stock and cut four 2" spacers with a band saw. I used a drill press to drill a 3/8" hole down the center of each one.

I bought a clutch and dual throttle cable kit from VenhillUSA. I was absolutely stunned at how complete the kit was. Everything you need to make quality, custom length cables for your Kat.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Venhill-Univ...EczAvg&vxp=mtr

So I noticed that the factory cables have a rubber sleeve on them to protect them from abrading on the steering stem, frame rails, etc. I decided to simply cut the end off the factory cable and reuse all of the hardware I could, minus the longer housing and cable. I slid the factory sleeve over the new cable housing so it would be protected like the old one was and then went about routing them and measuring for length.

When I finished I ended up with proper length cables with no binding and routed like the originals were, save for the clutch cable which is now outside the carbs.

I bought new brake lines from Sixty61com. I called and had them add 2" in length. Knowing what I know now, the standard length lines would have worked just fine. The configuration I went with is what they call 2F, which is two lines at the master cylinder, each running directly to the calipers.

http://www.sixty61.com/product-p/cmblf021.htm

The lines are top quality and come with nice banjo bolts and copper crush washers for making everything seal up nice.

I bought the longer stem bolts from BoltDepot.com. With standard shipping, the 4 - 10mm x 1.5mm x 130mm Grade 12.9 socket head bolts and the 4 nylon insert Grade 10.9 nuts cost $16.

The choke cable was long enough as is, once I did a little re-routing.

Anyway, the whole project set me back about $200, but I needed to replace the brake lines so that really didn't count.

I took it for a test drive this afternoon and it is absolutely amazing how much of a difference it makes raising the bars just 2". I plan on doing a longer trip next weekend and I'll report back with the results, if anyone is curious.
No pictures???!!!

Killing us man!



Seriously though, lots of pics and slightly more details would go a long way towards a "how to" as this is asked about a lot.

Krey
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:44 AM   #3
loneraider
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You must like the new SS Brake Lines you installed! Any issues bleeding the brakes ? Which brake fluid dot 4?
Ya pics would be great too/
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:23 AM   #4
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Old 06-14-2016, 06:22 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loneraider View Post
You must like the new SS Brake Lines you installed! Any issues bleeding the brakes ? Which brake fluid dot 4?
Ya pics would be great too/
I DO like the brake lines. They certainly look and feel like top quality stuff. You get to choose all of the colors too. Lifetime warranty too.

Issues bleeding the brakes ? Hell yes !! It took FOREVER to get the air out of the lines. I used almost a complete 16 oz. bottle of DOT4 fluid, but I also wanted to flush the old fluid out of the master cylinder and calipers.

I used a turkey baster to pull the old fluid out of the master cylinder and then wiped all of the components out with a clean rag. Flipped it over and gave it a quick spray with Brake-Kleen, blew it out with air and then filled it with DOT4. Worked the lever and pumped the entire reservoir empty into my waste container. Then I mounted it back on the Kat and filled it up again.

I have a vacuum bleeder kit so it was basically an exercise in filling the master cylinder, pumping the bleeder, opening the bleeder screw on each caliper and repeating - over and over again.

I've always thought the brake lever has too much travel but I finally gave up trying to make it any better and called it complete. They work just like they used to so I guess it is just a "feature" of that master cylinder / caliper combo ?
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:06 AM   #6
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OK, so I get it that everyone wants pictures. I didn't take any during the install because, in no particular order :

1. It was HOT and I was dripping with sweat.

2. Brake fluid wreaks havoc with many materials and I wasn't going to risk my camera / phone.

3. My hands were filthy for a lot of the work.

4. I didn't think it important because it seems like all of the threads I have read about bar raising don't have pics either ??

Anyway, I went out and took a few just now. When I get back into the bike later I will edit and add a few more of the clutch and carb throttle cable connections.






Rear brake line :










Attached Images
File Type: jpg Line Closeup.jpg (44.1 KB, 132 views)
File Type: jpg Line Closeup 2.jpg (83.6 KB, 130 views)
File Type: jpg Rear Line.jpg (71.2 KB, 130 views)
File Type: jpg Master Cylinder.jpg (53.8 KB, 131 views)
File Type: jpg Left Caliper.jpg (50.6 KB, 131 views)
File Type: jpg Right Caliper.jpg (62.8 KB, 130 views)
File Type: jpg Throttle Cables.jpg (48.6 KB, 130 views)
File Type: jpg Spacers 1.jpg (49.5 KB, 133 views)
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Old 06-15-2016, 09:22 PM   #7
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OK, so I disassembled the bike this evening to make some adjustments to the throttle and clutch cables. Here's a picture of how they ended up at the carbs. The rubber boots on there came with the Venhill kit.



Here's the routing layout.



Here's the business end of the clutch cable.



Here's a shot of the clutch handle end. I reused the factory metal elbow by removing the old cable from the end and then forcing the new cable ferrule into the factory metal elbow, making a nice, clean fit. The rubber piece came with the Venhill kit and is perfect for covering the junction between the new cable and the old factory elbow.



Finally, here's a shot of the cockpit. I am experimenting with filling the large holes in the bar mount by using a rubber freeze plug (1 3/4" - 1 7/8"). I am going to paint the top you can see so it blends better. I think it helps make the raised bars look less ghetto.



I decided against painting the washers and used a pair of big stainless fender washers instead. I think it looks OK and cleans up the overall look of the lift.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1 - Carb Cables.jpg (51.1 KB, 112 views)
File Type: jpg 2 - Cable Routing.jpg (58.0 KB, 112 views)
File Type: jpg 3 - Clutch Cable.jpg (49.5 KB, 112 views)
File Type: jpg 4 - Clutch Cable.jpg (55.9 KB, 115 views)
File Type: jpg 5 - Freeze Plug.jpg (73.0 KB, 112 views)
File Type: jpg 6 - Finished Raise.jpg (90.2 KB, 108 views)

Last edited by B-Man; 06-16-2016 at 02:32 PM..
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Old 06-15-2016, 11:05 PM   #8
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Damn, I don't think my bike has ever looked that clean.
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Old 06-16-2016, 06:15 AM   #9
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It wasn't clean when I bought it. PO was an @$$hole when it came to caring for it. Scratches, scrapes, etc. all over the bodywork. He trailered it and had something leaning on it which scratched it up and he dropped it in the driveway.

When I bought it the carbs were plugged up - it would idle but that's all. The PO would try to rev it up and it would die. After 200000 attempts to do the same, I finally convinced him to stop because maybe something was wrong. In retrospect I'm glad it happened that way because I ended up getting the bike for $400 less than what he advertised on CL.

I got it home, pulled the bodywork off, cleaned the carbs and all was good. I spent the better part of my evenings for a week going over the entire bike with rags and cleaning stuff. I pulled all of the electrical connections apart and cleaned with Electra-Clean and then followed up with dielectric grease. Replaced the chain, sprockets and grips. Bought replacement rubber pieces that are attached to the seat underneath (don't know why those were missing ??), replaced all of the lighting with LED bulbs - a steady work in progress.

My next mod is going to be taking the steering stem nut off and making a RAM mount base connect to it for my GPS. I think I can drill it, weld a nut to the back side and then thread a RAM 1" ball mount into it. Should make for a reliable, clean install that keeps it low and out of the way of the cluster.
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Old 06-16-2016, 07:24 AM   #10
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Interesting approach. I just swapped out my clip ons for touring bars.


After I did this (WAY more comfortable) I now just use a handlebar mount for my GPS.

Last edited by pikachukat; 06-16-2016 at 07:24 AM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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