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93 Katana ignition issues

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  • 93 Katana ignition issues

    Hey, does anyone have any suggestions on what to do next? I have a '93 Katana that I bought used and it'd been sitting there for who knows how long. But it ran okay and seemed like it could be restored to a decent level of condition. But then the other day while parking, my clutch cable snapped. Bummer. I bought a new one and worked on getting that in yesterday. Everything was routed fine and the new cable felt much better than the last one (kinked, frayed, and ultimately snapped). So I got on the bike, turned everything on and hit the ignition.

    Absolutely nothing.

    I've checked all the parts that I messed with when putting in the new cable, the clutch works and so does the neutral indicator, my battery's fine and all the rest of the electrics work, fuses aren't blown and I tried to check my spark plugs but my 5/8" socket doesn't seem to fit. What size are they?

    I'm going to check those when I can and as soon as I can get my hands on a multimeter, I'll start checking the rest of the wires, though I'm not totally sure where to start. I hate those electrical diagrams. Where's the starter relay, anyways?

    Still, I won't be able to get testing equipment for a few days, and there's work being done on the sidewalk where it's parked (towing=bad). So I have to go walk all the way across town and push it somewhere. Unfortunately, I live in Berkeley, so every direction is uphill. Should be iteresting. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I don't have a camera here, but I can roughly describe what I'm seeing. Thanks to anyone who helps.

  • #2
    Re: 93 Katana ignition issues

    Originally posted by Jiox
    New clutch cable. So I got on the bike, turned everything on and hit the ignition.

    Absolutely nothing.
    Probably knocked the clutch lever sensor wires loose from their perch when you were threadding in the cable, based on the symptoms. At the base of the clutch lever is a contact switch that gets activated when you squeeze the clutch lever -- and it completes a circuit. The contact switch has a pigtail that runs up to it with a few wires -- wires come unseated, the bike can't see the clutch is in, and refuses to engage the starter.

    Cheers,
    =-= The CyberPoet
    Remember The CyberPoet

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    • #3
      I thought it might be something like that too, but according to the wiring diagram, putting it in neutral should bypass the "clutch in" circuit, right? I tried that to no avail. I *think* the neutral switch is fine, since it still registers on my instrument panel. But I'll go take a look for that tomorrow.

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      • #4
        I don't know about the pre-98's, but the 98+ needs to have the clutch in to run the starter, whether you are in neutral or not. It may be the same in your case.

        Are you getting lights on the dash & headlights on when you turn it on?

        The other possibility would be the run switch or the starter switch.

        Cheers,
        =-= The CyberPoet
        Remember The CyberPoet

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        • #5
          The pre-98's are the same about the clutch. The clutch lever HAS to be pulled in for the starter to engage. Neutral, sidestand down... doesn't matter... clutch HAS to be in to start.

          Greg

          COURAGE -

          Freedom is the sure possession of those alone
          who have the courage to defend it.

          First Sergeant(Ret) - US Army - 21 years

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          • #6
            I'm going to check the clutch again tomorrow - I'm not sure if it's engaging fully or not. Enough so that shifting can be done, but there's a little bit of friction when pushing it around. Or maybe that was just the hills.

            I'm getting lights on my instrument cluster and headlights and everything. Not sure about the starter switch, since I haven't gone near that. Hope it's not that. I found the little switch for the clutch, but I don't think I touched that. I'm not totally sure how it's activated (is there a button somewhere?) but I'll check for continuity as soon as I get a multimeter.

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            • #7
              You can also jumper the clutch lever sensor switch for testing purposes if need be.

              I've seen lots of variations on that switch over the years, from bikes where they require a bit of manual jostling (such as the pigtail connector losing it's latch that holds it tight), to having to pull the clutch in and up at the same time to hit the switch properly, etc.

              Where the clutch's friction point is has zero to do with this, since the switch only relates to the lever -- not to what happens with the clutch cable after it leaves the handlebars (i.e. - no cable in place? you'd still have to squeeze the clutch lever in).

              Cheers,
              =-= The CyberPoet
              Remember The CyberPoet

              Comment

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