So I Raised My Bars This Weekend...

[B-Man]

Thought I would share some information and parts resources, just in case someone else wants to do the same project.

2005 Katana 750 - 2" Handlebar Raise

I bought a 12" long piece of 6061 aluminum round bar stock and cut four 2" spacers with a band saw. I used a drill press to drill a 3/8" hole down the center of each one.

I bought a clutch and dual throttle cable kit from VenhillUSA. I was absolutely stunned at how complete the kit was. Everything you need to make quality, custom length cables for your Kat.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Venhill-Univ...EczAvg&vxp=mtr

So I noticed that the factory cables have a rubber sleeve on them to protect them from abrading on the steering stem, frame rails, etc. I decided to simply cut the end off the factory cable and reuse all of the hardware I could, minus the longer housing and cable. I slid the factory sleeve over the new cable housing so it would be protected like the old one was and then went about routing them and measuring for length.

When I finished I ended up with proper length cables with no binding and routed like the originals were, save for the clutch cable which is now outside the carbs.

I bought new brake lines from Sixty61com. I called and had them add 2" in length. Knowing what I know now, the standard length lines would have worked just fine. The configuration I went with is what they call 2F, which is two lines at the master cylinder, each running directly to the calipers.

http://www.sixty61.com/product-p/cmblf021.htm

The lines are top quality and come with nice banjo bolts and copper crush washers for making everything seal up nice.

I bought the longer stem bolts from BoltDepot.com. With standard shipping, the 4 - 10mm x 1.5mm x 130mm Grade 12.9 socket head bolts and the 4 nylon insert Grade 10.9 nuts cost $16.

The choke cable was long enough as is, once I did a little re-routing.

Anyway, the whole project set me back about $200, but I needed to replace the brake lines so that really didn't count.

I took it for a test drive this afternoon and it is absolutely amazing how much of a difference it makes raising the bars just 2". I plan on doing a longer trip next weekend and I'll report back with the results, if anyone is curious.

[Kreylyn]

Thought I would share some information and parts resources, just in case someone else wants to do the same project.

2005 Katana 750 - 2" Handlebar Raise

I bought a 12" long piece of 6061 aluminum round bar stock and cut four 2" spacers with a band saw. I used a drill press to drill a 3/8" hole down the center of each one.

I bought a clutch and dual throttle cable kit from VenhillUSA. I was absolutely stunned at how complete the kit was. Everything you need to make quality, custom length cables for your Kat.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Venhill-Univ...EczAvg&vxp=mtr

So I noticed that the factory cables have a rubber sleeve on them to protect them from abrading on the steering stem, frame rails, etc. I decided to simply cut the end off the factory cable and reuse all of the hardware I could, minus the longer housing and cable. I slid the factory sleeve over the new cable housing so it would be protected like the old one was and then went about routing them and measuring for length.

When I finished I ended up with proper length cables with no binding and routed like the originals were, save for the clutch cable which is now outside the carbs.

I bought new brake lines from Sixty61com. I called and had them add 2" in length. Knowing what I know now, the standard length lines would have worked just fine. The configuration I went with is what they call 2F, which is two lines at the master cylinder, each running directly to the calipers.

http://www.sixty61.com/product-p/cmblf021.htm

The lines are top quality and come with nice banjo bolts and copper crush washers for making everything seal up nice.

I bought the longer stem bolts from BoltDepot.com. With standard shipping, the 4 - 10mm x 1.5mm x 130mm Grade 12.9 socket head bolts and the 4 nylon insert Grade 10.9 nuts cost $16.

The choke cable was long enough as is, once I did a little re-routing.

Anyway, the whole project set me back about $200, but I needed to replace the brake lines so that really didn't count.

I took it for a test drive this afternoon and it is absolutely amazing how much of a difference it makes raising the bars just 2". I plan on doing a longer trip next weekend and I'll report back with the results, if anyone is curious.

No pictures???!!!

Killing us man!



Seriously though, lots of pics and slightly more details would go a long way towards a "how to" as this is asked about a lot.

Krey

[loneraider]

You must like the new SS Brake Lines you installed! Any issues bleeding the brakes ? Which brake fluid dot 4?
Ya pics would be great too/

[ZukiFred]

[B-Man]

You must like the new SS Brake Lines you installed! Any issues bleeding the brakes ? Which brake fluid dot 4?
Ya pics would be great too/

I DO like the brake lines. They certainly look and feel like top quality stuff. You get to choose all of the colors too. Lifetime warranty too.

Issues bleeding the brakes ? Hell yes !! It took FOREVER to get the air out of the lines. I used almost a complete 16 oz. bottle of DOT4 fluid, but I also wanted to flush the old fluid out of the master cylinder and calipers.

I used a turkey baster to pull the old fluid out of the master cylinder and then wiped all of the components out with a clean rag. Flipped it over and gave it a quick spray with Brake-Kleen, blew it out with air and then filled it with DOT4. Worked the lever and pumped the entire reservoir empty into my waste container. Then I mounted it back on the Kat and filled it up again.

I have a vacuum bleeder kit so it was basically an exercise in filling the master cylinder, pumping the bleeder, opening the bleeder screw on each caliper and repeating - over and over again.

I've always thought the brake lever has too much travel but I finally gave up trying to make it any better and called it complete. They work just like they used to so I guess it is just a "feature" of that master cylinder / caliper combo ?

[B-Man]

OK, so I get it that everyone wants pictures. I didn't take any during the install because, in no particular order :

1. It was HOT and I was dripping with sweat.

2. Brake fluid wreaks havoc with many materials and I wasn't going to risk my camera / phone.

3. My hands were filthy for a lot of the work.

4. I didn't think it important because it seems like all of the threads I have read about bar raising don't have pics either ??

Anyway, I went out and took a few just now. When I get back into the bike later I will edit and add a few more of the clutch and carb throttle cable connections.






Rear brake line :

[B-Man]

OK, so I disassembled the bike this evening to make some adjustments to the throttle and clutch cables. Here's a picture of how they ended up at the carbs. The rubber boots on there came with the Venhill kit.



Here's the routing layout.



Here's the business end of the clutch cable.



Here's a shot of the clutch handle end. I reused the factory metal elbow by removing the old cable from the end and then forcing the new cable ferrule into the factory metal elbow, making a nice, clean fit. The rubber piece came with the Venhill kit and is perfect for covering the junction between the new cable and the old factory elbow.



Finally, here's a shot of the cockpit. I am experimenting with filling the large holes in the bar mount by using a rubber freeze plug (1 3/4" - 1 7/8"). I am going to paint the top you can see so it blends better. I think it helps make the raised bars look less ghetto.



I decided against painting the washers and used a pair of big stainless fender washers instead. I think it looks OK and cleans up the overall look of the lift.

[shpielers]

Damn, I don't think my bike has ever looked that clean.

[B-Man]

It wasn't clean when I bought it. PO was an @$$hole when it came to caring for it. Scratches, scrapes, etc. all over the bodywork. He trailered it and had something leaning on it which scratched it up and he dropped it in the driveway.

When I bought it the carbs were plugged up - it would idle but that's all. The PO would try to rev it up and it would die. After 200000 attempts to do the same, I finally convinced him to stop because maybe something was wrong. In retrospect I'm glad it happened that way because I ended up getting the bike for $400 less than what he advertised on CL.

I got it home, pulled the bodywork off, cleaned the carbs and all was good. I spent the better part of my evenings for a week going over the entire bike with rags and cleaning stuff. I pulled all of the electrical connections apart and cleaned with Electra-Clean and then followed up with dielectric grease. Replaced the chain, sprockets and grips. Bought replacement rubber pieces that are attached to the seat underneath (don't know why those were missing ??), replaced all of the lighting with LED bulbs - a steady work in progress.

My next mod is going to be taking the steering stem nut off and making a RAM mount base connect to it for my GPS. I think I can drill it, weld a nut to the back side and then thread a RAM 1" ball mount into it. Should make for a reliable, clean install that keeps it low and out of the way of the cluster.

[pikachukat]

Interesting approach. I just swapped out my clip ons for touring bars.


After I did this (WAY more comfortable) I now just use a handlebar mount for my GPS.

[B-Man]

If my bars were like yours I would have tried to go the same route. For whatever reason mine is different - it is all cast as a single piece. I can't unbolt the bars like you did.

[KAT TOY]

I raised my 750 bars 1" with no other mods needed. some improvement over stock. I got my spacers from Soupys Sales. it was a lowering kit for a 'Busa. Spacers and longer bolts for $28 shipped.

[B-Man]

UPDATE

Well, I did a nice ride yesterday with the raised bars - home, to the Cherohala Skyway (via twisty back roads), to the Tail of the Dragon and back home again, via twisty back roads.

158 miles total in 4 hours, which included stopping for a great lunch in Tellico Plains (west end of the Skyway); stopping for gas in Robbinsville, NC (east end of the Skyway); stopping for a water and social time at Deals Gap and driving SLOOOOOW behind a TN State Trooper on the last half of the Dragon.

Without a doubt the best comfort mod I have made to date. I ordered a Corbin seat Friday so I hope the combo will prove to be what I need for comfort on a long distance trip I am planning for the future.

[shpielers]

The Corbin will feel weird for a bit. It's great for long distance, but it will take some getting used to.
Sounds like a great ride.

[B-Man]

Well I completed another LONG ride yesterday, with some good news to share :

The Corbin seat has proven to be AWESOME for comfort, after taking about 200 miles or so to break-in to my butt. The wife reports it is much more comfortable for her too !! While a bit pricey, it now makes all-day riding a very real possibility, coupled with the raised handlebars. My only complaint would be that I lost a small amount of under seat storage. It sat so low I had a very hard time getting it to latch and unlatch. I made a spacer out of 1/8" thick aluminum flat bar, put it under the latching seat post and that did the trick. Clicks in place like the factory seat does. The mounting studs on the seat were plenty long enough to install the flat bar so it was very easy overall.

I also bought a Shoei RF-1200 in Anthracite. I was pretty surprised on how much quieter it is than my Shoei Qwest helmet. I added the Transitions visor and can say it is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED !!! It turned plenty dark for bright sun comfort and it is perfectly clear at night. I got the visor from Revzilla for $152 and free shipping.

FYI - North Carolina is repaving their side of the Cherohala Skyway. I rode on a fairly long section of brand new, ultra smooth asphalt and was very happy with the Michelins on the Kat.