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flush mount turn signals as running lights

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  • flush mount turn signals as running lights

    Hey all, this seems like a topic that has to have been covered but I've been searching for a while and have not found a definitive, complete answer...

    I want to fiberglass/bondo the front turn signal holes and install some flush mount turn signals, then just use those as running lights. In my pre, there is a 3-wire (I think--I'm at work and so can't check now) unused light harness, right up by the turn signals, which has an always-on connection(with key in, anyway).

    My main worry is that I've seen a couple eBay items with warnings that 2 wire lights cannot be used as running lights, but don't understand why.. Also, I read on here that turn-signals-turned-running-lights can get too hot, but that would not apply to LEDs, correct?

  • #2
    Originally posted by hinsy View Post

    I want to fiberglass/bondo the front turn signal holes and install some flush mount turn signals,
    This isn't pertaining to your electrical question but hopefully will help with the fairing work.
    The simplest thing I found to do is sand the paint a small amount around the hole on the front and back. Then put some type of tape over the back side...I used a stiff foil tape like used in a/c duct work because it was something I had on hand and wouldn't stick to ABS. Next step is to use ABS glue to fill the hole. You will likely have to apply several layers allowing them to dry until you reach the desired thickness. Once it's cured completely you can sand and prep for paint. One thing I discovered is once you add another layer it softens what you have already done up somewhat but as it cures it will get hard again. This is just where the acetone in the ABS glue sorta reactivates the glue. It may also help to put some on the back after you remove the tape.

    I'm sure someone else will chime in on the electrical issues you have. I've got LED integrated turn signals I'm having problems with as well.
    Good luck

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    • #3
      Cool, thanks for the tip!

      Comment


      • #4
        That will work, thin layers is best... slightly sand the shiny surface off each layer (light sanding) to make it overall harder and hold up better.

        Or...

        Use some scrap ABS as a fill and the ABS cement to put it in place and filler for an even better and quicker hole fill.

        Krey
        93 750 Kat



        Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

        "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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        • #5
          haha, while we're slightly off topic anyway, does anyone have an opinion on what would hold up & look better?

          I have a serious crack that neither plastic cement nor epoxy have been able to fix, and I am about to do a full paint job, so I'll be fiberglass-reinforcing that anyway. Unless anybody thinks it's actually an inferior option, as far as strength & appearance are concerned, I'll probably go with fiberglass & see how that turns out...

          Thanks for the recommendations, though, guys! Much appreciated!

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          • #6
            Originally posted by hinsy View Post
            haha, while we're slightly off topic anyway, does anyone have an opinion on what would hold up & look better?

            I have a serious crack that neither plastic cement nor epoxy have been able to fix, and I am about to do a full paint job, so I'll be fiberglass-reinforcing that anyway. Unless anybody thinks it's actually an inferior option, as far as strength & appearance are concerned, I'll probably go with fiberglass & see how that turns out...

            Thanks for the recommendations, though, guys! Much appreciated!
            Fiberglass will seperate from the ABS and it will eventually fail. ABS is a better option. If you need to re-enfoce due to a high stress area, use a flat piece of ABS and lay it across the back over the crack to additional support. Then use the ABS to fill the crack and sand smooth.

            krey
            93 750 Kat



            Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

            "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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            • #7
              Know those black boxes that Craftsman tools come in? Thats what I used. I cut out a square and used abs cement to glue it to the back of the fairing and filled in the hole with Duraglass. Three years and 8k miles later and no issues.
              Originally posted by arsenic
              93 octane fuel and K&N pod filters rock.

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              • #8
                I never thought of ABS cement to fill a hole that large, cool.
                http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=110816

                1994 GSX750F Katana with:

                Michelin Pilot Road 2's, 120/70, 150/70,
                Race Tech 1.0kg springs with 25mm preload,
                R6 rear shock w/14.3kg Eibach spring,
                1" Soupys bar risers, Zero Gravity windshield,
                RK GXW Gold Chain, My own fender eliminator,
                3BBB turn signal mirrors,
                Black painted seat and rear trim,
                Nelson-Rigg CL-135, CL-150, CL-950.

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                • #9
                  I cannot find the site again, but there was a a "modulator-regulator-gizmo" or some thing, that you just wired in, to make the fronts run/signal.

                  I wish I could find the link.

                  It was like $ 20 bucks, and I am wanting to find it again for myself.

                  But it basically turned your front signals to run by leaving them "on" all the time, then when you use them as blinkers, it turns them off-on-off-on-off until you turn of the blinker, then it stays "on" again.

                  I will keep searching.

                  edited: YES! Thats is Hensey!
                  Last edited by JEDI; 06-26-2010, 04:11 AM. Reason: typos
                  Do or do not, there is no Try...
                  -Master Yoda

                  Current Bike; 2005 Katana 750

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by JEDI View Post
                    I cannot find the site again, but there was a a "modulator" or some thing, that you just wired in, to make the fronts run/signal.

                    I wish I could find the link.

                    It was like $ 20 bucks, and I am wanting to find it again fr myself.

                    But it basically turned your front signals to run by leaving them "on" all the time, then when you use them as blinkers, it turns them off-on-off-on-off until you turn of the blinker, then it styas "on" again.

                    I will keep searching.

                    You might be referring to this thread?

                    Hope that helps you! It's not quite what I was thinking, though--I want the integrated mirrors I just ordered to be my new turn signals, and some LED flush mounts to be running lights. I think I'll just need a couple of these to step down the power to LED levels. What I'm wondering is whether that free 3-wire harness I found is actually for running lights, and if it's ok to just use a 2 wire turn LED turn signal as running lights.

                    & Thanks, HemiKat--great call!

                    I've also been contemplating something a little different, with air-flow increasing qualities... I don't like the idea of just screening the holes, but maybe coming up with some sort of vent/scoop-like modification w/ a few scrap pieces of plastic...

                    Anyone have any pics or links to something like that to help me make a decision?

                    ...maybe I should've put this thread in bodywork, since it's been taking a turn in that direction from the start, haha
                    Last edited by hinsy; 06-25-2010, 11:12 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Kreylyn View Post

                      Or...

                      Use some scrap ABS as a fill and the ABS cement to put it in place and filler for an even better and quicker hole fill.

                      Krey
                      Wish I had thought of that before. LOL. Theres always next time.

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                      • #12
                        Am I wrong or would a plastic welder not be the best option? Thats what Im gonna use.
                        Judge us not the scavengers that persecute humanity..

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