problem after taking carbs apart

[delkampg]

the other thread died out so i gotta start a new one, here is a recap. the bike use to die on the highway after about half a day of riding, it would just bog down and die. got a new air filter and thought it fixed it. i rode all day and it was good up till the last stretch home. so i took the carbs apart (i had never did anything like this before) to find the most disgusting thing ive ever seen. when i drilled into the a/f screws i knicked 3 of the 4 moving them, but adjusted all 4 to what the good one was. realized the reason fuel was getting into my airbox was the floats were way off. but them back together and did my first carb synch.

now a new problem. when i took it out it seemed to ride fine in town with a little more pick up then before. it seemed fine. hit an interstate and opened it up a bit. it didnt feel like i was gaining speed anymore so i looked down and seen i was stuck at 6500 rpms. i think i was in 5th. it wouldnt go above 6500rpms with WOT. also in low gears when it hit higher rpms it sounded funny.

what i know about this problem
1. it will rev to the the red with clutch in
2. it seems to rev to red in both 1st and 2nd (it was actually under redline but still had plenty of pull.)
3. at high revs, maybe 5 or 6000 rpms it makes a weird sound. no longer a smooth vrooooomm.
4. in 5th or maybe 6th gear it wont go past 6500 rpms at 70 mph (i dont remember what gear i was in but that sounds like 5th, i think)

if anyone needs anymore info ill try to get it. i dont think ill have time to take the bike out til saterday though. i have done a search but only found one thread with a similar problem but didnt really seem like what im dealing with.

[The CyberPoet]

When you say you found the most disgusting thing, what was it?

If it was watery-slime, then there was probably more in your tank and it subsequently migrated to your float bowls again. The right answer is to drain the tank and clean it out, plus redrain the float-bowls.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[delkampg]

i think it was rust build up over time. i checked the tank and there is rust in there. im gonna fix it right after i get it running right. so the rust in the tank would make the bike do what its doing? the stuff i found in the carbs didnt seem slimy. could the sludge have developed in the 2 days it took me to do everything?

[The CyberPoet]

No, sludge doesn't form in two days. It means there's still crud in the bottom of the gas tank migrating.

Step 1: treat the rust (POR-15 or see this: CyberPoet's How to fix motorcycle fuel tank rust problems.).

Step 2: Clean out the floats again and then getting it running right.

As long as you keep that tank hooked to the engine as it's fuel supply, you're going to continue to suck contaminants into the carbs and foul them. If you want to get the engine working, use something else as your fuel source until you can treat the tank.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[delkampg]

i forgot to say that when i put it together the bracket behind that air box was a b@tch to put on i connected it to the air box first then put the larger bolts in but it didnt line up with the holes. i had to force it. i looked and it seemed the carbs and airbox were as far up as they should be so i didnt give it another thought. but no i wonder if i have an air leak.

why would it not max out a 6500 rpms before i cleaned the carbs? also i looked for Yamaha's Fuel Tank Rust Remover ($14.95, Part Number ACC-FUELT-CD-KT) but found it was discontinued. is there still a place where i can get it? or something else you recommend?

not to doubt what your saying cause these are definitely something ill address this weekend, but could it be that i have an air leak somewhere, or its running lean, or a bad carb sync?

when i drained the tank the fuel that came out was clear and looked like it did when i pumped it.

[arsenic]

por-15

[The CyberPoet]

I'm sure the Yamaha dealer can get you whatever their replacement for their rust-remover kit is, but I'd still recommend POR-15 as the preferred solution (the yamaha kit removes rust; the POR-15 kit removes the rust and then coats the tank with an epoxy so you can never run into the issue again). When you look at the POR-15 kit, they make two of them, a delux kit and a regular -- take the regular; the delux is to remove other (crap) coatings like Kreme or RedKoat which don't tend to hold up well.

Either way, you need to get all the rust out as step 1.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[loudnlow7484]

i forgot to say that when i put it together the bracket behind that air box was a b@tch to put on i connected it to the air box first then put the larger bolts in but it didnt line up with the holes. i had to force it. i looked and it seemed the carbs and airbox were as far up as they should be so i didnt give it another thought. but no i wonder if i have an air leak.

why would it not max out a 6500 rpms before i cleaned the carbs? also i looked for Yamaha's Fuel Tank Rust Remover ($14.95, Part Number ACC-FUELT-CD-KT) but found it was discontinued. is there still a place where i can get it? or something else you recommend?

not to doubt what your saying cause these are definitely something ill address this weekend, but could it be that i have an air leak somewhere, or its running lean, or a bad carb sync?

when i drained the tank the fuel that came out was clear and looked like it did when i pumped it.

If it felt like you really had to force the carbs/airbox to fit in their alloted space, then you should probably try that again. The carbs, when they are fitted correctly to the motor, give a very satisfying pop into place. The airbox can be a real ******* sometimes, but once again, you can tell by feel when it's on correctly, and nothing will need to be forced into place. I would still be checking for vacuum problems..... vacuum ports (and o-rings) especially. The rusty tank thing does sound suspicious, though. It doesn't take much to clog a pilot jet, or a main jet for that matter!