I posted in the Intro thread I think...anyway...picked up a 1991 Katana 600. Nice bike....it will take over commuting duties from my trusty GS500E shortly..
Bike has 28k on it right now. Owner I purchased from had it a month or so...then he found out he was a bit too small for the bike, and a smaller cruiser would be much better for his commute. So that makes him the 3rd owner.
2nd owner purchased bike with 3.3k on it in early 1993. How do I know? I've got owner's manual, cards, and EVERY friggin' receipt from everything ever done to the bike...he let the dealership to everything. He was religous on oil changes, valve adjustments, plugs, air cleaner etc. That's nice to know.
Anyway...bike runs pretty good. Let me rephrase...it idles low. I wasn't going to tear into it until I got my Clymer's in, but since I downloaded the Haynes I Said why not.
I have to replaced the windscreen, mirrors, and the clutch lever...so I ordered all that from Bike Bandit today.
So it idles around 1000 or so. Tried adjusting the idle per specs, and while I can get it to idle way up....another 3-400 RPM is damn near impossible. It seems to just idle back down. But it runs GREAT from off idle to around redline. Pulls hard and smooth like nobody's business. So I know there isn't too much going on here.
Anyway one of the receipts from April of this year was a complete carb / clean / 'repair' and sync.
But the carbs looks pretty dirty on the OUTSIDE to me....
So tonight it escalated...before I knew it, all the plastic was off, the tank was off, and away I go.
BTW...is it standard practice for a dealership to use ZIP TIES to hold the fuel lines to the petcock? Just wondering.
I've also got what I thought was a possible valve rattle at idle. Only really noticeable at idle. But of course it is idling low..but after looking at the stock (oh yeah bike is BONE STOCK) header...I'm thinking I might have an exhaust leak..sounds like a header leak on any hundred project cars I've worked on, so I'm gonna hit Bike Bandit up for exhaust gaskets as well. Couldn't hurt.
So I'm wrapping up tonight, but tomorrow will be pulling the carbs and checking 'em out.
Also on the to get list - The vacuum line that goes in near where the fuel gauge / sender wires come out...it was split so bad it wouldn't stay on. So I'll replace that. I'm thinking it's just a vent hose, since it runs to the bottom of the frame..
Also the air box looks to have some 'gunk' in it..almost like oil..reminds me more of K&N Air filter oil...and I can see a red 'tinted' substance around the neck of the carbs when looking through the air box..????????
Another one to add to the list...the airbox drain line was either twisted or burnt? Almost in half....the cap was still there. Order that too I guess..
Plugs didn't look too bad....we'll see I guess.
So this is the plan.......
Take off and clean carbs. I know I ran across an article on that here....thought one with pics, but I can't find that thread right now...been searching too. I'm thinking since it runs so GOOD from off idle to redline, that it might be the idle circuit. Then again, it IS a 4 stroke 4cyl, so if I do have an exhaust leak that could cause that crap at low RPM too...are exhaust leaks common on these w/ age?
I'll take a gander at the carbs and check 'em out...from the airbox looking in they look VERY clean. But you never know.
So here's the checklist so far, if you got this far in this novel please let me know if I'm missing anything:
- Pull petcock and clean filter (there does appear to be a few VERY small spots of rust in the tank....but I mean SMALL....and no trash coming out of the petoock.
Should I rebuild the petcock WHILE I've got it apart?
Any seals / gaskets that are likely to need replacing once I go to put it back together? (would need to order them now)
I'm going to 'assume' that the 3rd line that ISN'T a fuel line coming off the petcock is the vacuum feed for this thing. So if I understand the operation clearly, in the ON position, the engine turning over would create VACUUM and let fuel travel to the carbs...correct? Not like PRIME which is a direct 'gravity' feed right?
-Replace ANY suspect vacuum / fuel lines.
Can I get just get bulk hose? Or is it easier to use OE Replacements?
Speaking of that I was going to go ahead and make a water driven (I add red food coloring to make it easier to see LOL) manometer, I figure it should do the job to sync the carbs. So ANOTHER question...
I only have two hands...is it practical / safe to get some extra long pieces of fuel line and prop the tank on my workbench next to the bike, and run the long fuel lines from the tank (off the bike) to the carbs? Can this work well enough when I'm adjusting the carbs and sync'ng them? Anyone done it? Seems simple enough.
If the 'EPA' carb plugs have NOT been drilled, is there another A/F adjustment I should be looking at?
- Check 'intake boots' from carbs to airbox as well as intake side.
- Replace plugs, they didn't look that bad, but hell I'm in here now.
- Replace air filter...I need to see what a new OE one looks like, cause this one doesn't look that bad...but again, I'm elbow deep "mine as well"
- As far as trash in carbs.....
- Any spots to really look for? Especially those that would effect the low RPM idle I get.....as it runs SO GOOD further up the RPM range? Idle circuit I'm guessing?
Anything else I'm missing? I'd rather get this thing idling and running RIGHT, so I can drive it.......
Cause although the plastics are in great shape (some were replaced with NEW factory parts a few years ago........."never laid down" my azz...LOL ) the paint on side looks great...the other looks great..but with the factory graphics, lacking on the factory replacement piece + the tank paint is faded....so good excuse for a Winter project. Luckily I have a buddy who does auto body...I figure bringing him the pieces and some beer + paint / clear / reducer should get it done.
Then of course,since I'm anal like that..
Braided front brakes lines, new rear, flush fluid etc etc...I figure when I'm done it should be good for another 25k with only oil changes, plugs, and valve adjustments............yeah right......
Thanks for any and all suggestion and pointers here.
BTW here's the breakdown on the receipt date 4/21/07
4 NGK DR8ES plugs $14.00 (ouch)
Clean carbs 6 hours labor $474.00
Flush fuel sys/fix fuel leak? (zip ties? LOL) $79.00
R/R spark plugs $79.00
Valve adjustment $237.00
Supplies $20.00 (pricey zip ties)
$904.00 and this was 4 months ago. I didn't pay THAT much more for the bike last week.......LOL
Chris
91 Kat 600 -Under the knife
90 GS500E - 52 mpg and chugging along, let's hope it doesn't get jealous :P
Bike has 28k on it right now. Owner I purchased from had it a month or so...then he found out he was a bit too small for the bike, and a smaller cruiser would be much better for his commute. So that makes him the 3rd owner.
2nd owner purchased bike with 3.3k on it in early 1993. How do I know? I've got owner's manual, cards, and EVERY friggin' receipt from everything ever done to the bike...he let the dealership to everything. He was religous on oil changes, valve adjustments, plugs, air cleaner etc. That's nice to know.
Anyway...bike runs pretty good. Let me rephrase...it idles low. I wasn't going to tear into it until I got my Clymer's in, but since I downloaded the Haynes I Said why not.
I have to replaced the windscreen, mirrors, and the clutch lever...so I ordered all that from Bike Bandit today.
So it idles around 1000 or so. Tried adjusting the idle per specs, and while I can get it to idle way up....another 3-400 RPM is damn near impossible. It seems to just idle back down. But it runs GREAT from off idle to around redline. Pulls hard and smooth like nobody's business. So I know there isn't too much going on here.
Anyway one of the receipts from April of this year was a complete carb / clean / 'repair' and sync.
But the carbs looks pretty dirty on the OUTSIDE to me....
So tonight it escalated...before I knew it, all the plastic was off, the tank was off, and away I go.
BTW...is it standard practice for a dealership to use ZIP TIES to hold the fuel lines to the petcock? Just wondering.
I've also got what I thought was a possible valve rattle at idle. Only really noticeable at idle. But of course it is idling low..but after looking at the stock (oh yeah bike is BONE STOCK) header...I'm thinking I might have an exhaust leak..sounds like a header leak on any hundred project cars I've worked on, so I'm gonna hit Bike Bandit up for exhaust gaskets as well. Couldn't hurt.
So I'm wrapping up tonight, but tomorrow will be pulling the carbs and checking 'em out.
Also on the to get list - The vacuum line that goes in near where the fuel gauge / sender wires come out...it was split so bad it wouldn't stay on. So I'll replace that. I'm thinking it's just a vent hose, since it runs to the bottom of the frame..
Also the air box looks to have some 'gunk' in it..almost like oil..reminds me more of K&N Air filter oil...and I can see a red 'tinted' substance around the neck of the carbs when looking through the air box..????????
Another one to add to the list...the airbox drain line was either twisted or burnt? Almost in half....the cap was still there. Order that too I guess..
Plugs didn't look too bad....we'll see I guess.
So this is the plan.......
Take off and clean carbs. I know I ran across an article on that here....thought one with pics, but I can't find that thread right now...been searching too. I'm thinking since it runs so GOOD from off idle to redline, that it might be the idle circuit. Then again, it IS a 4 stroke 4cyl, so if I do have an exhaust leak that could cause that crap at low RPM too...are exhaust leaks common on these w/ age?
I'll take a gander at the carbs and check 'em out...from the airbox looking in they look VERY clean. But you never know.
So here's the checklist so far, if you got this far in this novel please let me know if I'm missing anything:
- Pull petcock and clean filter (there does appear to be a few VERY small spots of rust in the tank....but I mean SMALL....and no trash coming out of the petoock.
Should I rebuild the petcock WHILE I've got it apart?
Any seals / gaskets that are likely to need replacing once I go to put it back together? (would need to order them now)
I'm going to 'assume' that the 3rd line that ISN'T a fuel line coming off the petcock is the vacuum feed for this thing. So if I understand the operation clearly, in the ON position, the engine turning over would create VACUUM and let fuel travel to the carbs...correct? Not like PRIME which is a direct 'gravity' feed right?
-Replace ANY suspect vacuum / fuel lines.
Can I get just get bulk hose? Or is it easier to use OE Replacements?
Speaking of that I was going to go ahead and make a water driven (I add red food coloring to make it easier to see LOL) manometer, I figure it should do the job to sync the carbs. So ANOTHER question...
I only have two hands...is it practical / safe to get some extra long pieces of fuel line and prop the tank on my workbench next to the bike, and run the long fuel lines from the tank (off the bike) to the carbs? Can this work well enough when I'm adjusting the carbs and sync'ng them? Anyone done it? Seems simple enough.
If the 'EPA' carb plugs have NOT been drilled, is there another A/F adjustment I should be looking at?
- Check 'intake boots' from carbs to airbox as well as intake side.
- Replace plugs, they didn't look that bad, but hell I'm in here now.
- Replace air filter...I need to see what a new OE one looks like, cause this one doesn't look that bad...but again, I'm elbow deep "mine as well"
- As far as trash in carbs.....
- Any spots to really look for? Especially those that would effect the low RPM idle I get.....as it runs SO GOOD further up the RPM range? Idle circuit I'm guessing?
Anything else I'm missing? I'd rather get this thing idling and running RIGHT, so I can drive it.......
Cause although the plastics are in great shape (some were replaced with NEW factory parts a few years ago........."never laid down" my azz...LOL ) the paint on side looks great...the other looks great..but with the factory graphics, lacking on the factory replacement piece + the tank paint is faded....so good excuse for a Winter project. Luckily I have a buddy who does auto body...I figure bringing him the pieces and some beer + paint / clear / reducer should get it done.
Then of course,since I'm anal like that..
Braided front brakes lines, new rear, flush fluid etc etc...I figure when I'm done it should be good for another 25k with only oil changes, plugs, and valve adjustments............yeah right......
Thanks for any and all suggestion and pointers here.
BTW here's the breakdown on the receipt date 4/21/07
4 NGK DR8ES plugs $14.00 (ouch)
Clean carbs 6 hours labor $474.00
Flush fuel sys/fix fuel leak? (zip ties? LOL) $79.00
R/R spark plugs $79.00
Valve adjustment $237.00
Supplies $20.00 (pricey zip ties)
$904.00 and this was 4 months ago. I didn't pay THAT much more for the bike last week.......LOL
Chris
91 Kat 600 -Under the knife
90 GS500E - 52 mpg and chugging along, let's hope it doesn't get jealous :P
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