[Kreylyn]

I'll simplify the answer for you.

The header is the primary concern and effect on flow.

You can Y pipe the stock headers just past the oil pan and run custom mid pipe to any can you want that has been used on a 600+ sized engine.

Now more details on doing that...

If your using a stock header, then you can get away with a shim of the needles instead of a jet kit for small adjustment. This doesn't replace the better shaped needles in a FP jet kit, but then peeps use the shitty shaped DJ kit needles and fan boy about them all the time. But it can work. Shim with #4 washers. Most hardware stores carry packs of them, so that's a cheap work around for the US stock needles not being adjustable.

I agree with the center stand being there for the formation of the exhaust, helps you make sure not a clearance issue later and also you can locate to place the bumper for the center stand stop point.

Krey

[y2ktj]

Thanks for more info krey I appreciate it. I was thinking of doing just that with the pipe. Few bucks for pipe and my time. I'll have to do some research on jetting as I only read through carbs 101 quickly. You mention us neddles. I'm guessing that even if my bike was bought in Canada it is the same as a us model. I researched the Vin when I got the bike but that was 5 years ago so I'll have to again. I've been looking for a center stand and my understanding is only a pre one will work. Now does it have to be for a 600? or will is a 750 stand the same? I ask because one I saw on Ebay said it was for both.
I've got lots more questions coming so maybe time for a build thread. So to all those that have answered thank you. Any and all advice is welcome.

[Kreylyn]

Thanks for more info krey I appreciate it. I was thinking of doing just that with the pipe. Few bucks for pipe and my time. I'll have to do some research on jetting as I only read through carbs 101 quickly. You mention us neddles. I'm guessing that even if my bike was bought in Canada it is the same as a us model. I researched the Vin when I got the bike but that was 5 years ago so I'll have to again. I've been looking for a center stand and my understanding is only a pre one will work. Now does it have to be for a 600? or will is a 750 stand the same? I ask because one I saw on Ebay said it was for both.
I've got lots more questions coming so maybe time for a build thread. So to all those that have answered thank you. Any and all advice is welcome.

US needles will have a single eclip location. If you have more than 1 eclip option then you have either non US needles or a Jet kit installed.

Same center stand for 600/750, there are no differences due to CC size for those two.

Pre and post are slightly different, but there is at least one thread of someone modifying to fit the other. If you can weld and do simple metal work, that's a rather easy modification option. The bolt mount points match up, it's the spring mounting that varies between the two pre/post.

Krey

[y2ktj]

That's good news. A lot more post stand out there. I'll see if I can find the thread. If it's just the spring mount I can do that easy. A lot dont come with the spring but probably should be replaced anyway. Besides that is there anything else to look for.

[y2ktj]

Found the thread. Easy job thanks.

[y2ktj]

I'll simplify the answer for you.

The header is the primary concern and effect on flow.

You can Y pipe the stock headers just past the oil pan and run custom mid pipe to any can you want that has been used on a 600+ sized engine.

Now more details on doing that...

If your using a stock header, then you can get away with a shim of the needles instead of a jet kit for small adjustment. This doesn't replace the better shaped needles in a FP jet kit, but then peeps use the shitty shaped DJ kit needles and fan boy about them all the time. But it can work. Shim with #4 washers. Most hardware stores carry packs of them, so that's a cheap work around for the US stock needles not being adjustable.

I agree with the center stand being there for the formation of the exhaust, helps you make sure not a clearance issue later and also you can locate to place the bumper for the center stand stop point.

Krey

Forgot I posted this here.
So the bike is mostly together and got it running so exhaust is next on the list. Performance is not the goal just needs exhaust. Been back and forth about what direction to go. If the local salvage has some stock mufflers for cheap I'll go that route. If not I'll use the zx6 can and give building a 4-1 a try. My time is free and pipe is cheap.

Heres a cheap jet kit on Ebay



I looked at the parts diagram for the carb. The #4 washer would go on the short one in the above pic correct?

[Kreylyn]

Forgot I posted this here.
So the bike is mostly together and got it running so exhaust is next on the list. Performance is not the goal just needs exhaust. Been back and forth about what direction to go. If the local salvage has some stock mufflers for cheap I'll go that route. If not I'll use the zx6 can and give building a 4-1 a try. My time is free and pipe is cheap.

Heres a cheap jet kit on Ebay



I looked at the parts diagram for the carb. The #4 washer would go on the short one in the above pic correct?

A proper jet kit primary setup is going to include adjustable needles. The kit isn't about the jets, it's about the needles primarily. The need to change jets would not be there for your setup.

Look up a kit from Factory Pro for your bike. That's the route to take, if your going to invest in a kit at all. Otherwise, go to lowes, buy a set of 4 #4 washers in the hardware section for $2 or less, and just shim the stock needles you have.

Krey

[katanarider]

This is where I'd give in and just buy stock exhaust. You can fiddle and fuck around all you want and risk over heating your cylinders without ever knowing that its really happening.
My bike has been tuned to near perfection with stock exhaust for some time now. It occasionally would idle high or burp on #4 carb , but I thought maybe it was a change in barometric elevation. I'd run higher octane to compensate and the problem would go away. Well as it turns out it was just the smallest vacuum leak which has caused my #4 cylinder to over heat, showing a white spark plug nut. Now my # 4 cylinder has lower compression than the rest. My point is, carb tuning its a tedious task that likely to disappoint making all that fabrication time pointless.

[y2ktj]

I just posted that kit pic to ask where the #4 washers would go Krey. A buddy of the PO has been a great help and would probably help with any rejetting. Quick plug for Matt's carbon fiber business where he makes mostly stuff for the honda rc51 but does custom work.

https://duckhuntercomposites.ca/

No one has answered if the stock exhaust is a complete unit on each side. When you say you picked up new stock exhaust you ordered the whole thing? From headers to mufflers? I ment to snap a pic of where mine ends but got side tracked. Its cut a couple inches after the cross pipe. You can see where it ends in this pic.


Salvage was closed by the time I remembered to call them so I picked up a couple peices of exhaust tube today. I bought the wrong size of course ( didnt measure and took a guess) but for $30 I could easily replace the missing tube . Maybe not easy or quick but my time is free. $300 cdn for cheapest on Ebay and its damaged. Was hoping more like 100. Maybe I can find one locally.

I like working on the bike. I love to "tinker" in the shop on anything. Jeep, rc, chainsaw....Working on the bike on a stool is way nicer than crawling out from under the jeep every 5 min. So guess I'll be patient and do more research. Lots of other stuff to work on anyway. Just want to hear it run for more than a min.

[katanarider]

Stock exhaust is two pieces, a left and right. They are one piece from the headers back on each side. So, two header down pipes per muffler.
When I responded to your last post, I was under the impression you were thinking it would be best to make a set of headers and all that jazz. I'm just trying to save you some head ache.
If you have a friend thats going to take care of the carbs, oh well. Still, I like knowing what I"m getting into before I commit to that sort of thing. Maybe I"m just too picky, I don't know. When ever I see a Katana for sale, I always make sure the exhaust is stock before I even consider taking a closer look.
Anyway, are some complete exhaust systems for $100 on ebay. I'm guessing shipping would be more for you. Even so, $200 or $300 isn't too bad considering you paid $50 for the bike.
And, don't forget. You'r on Katriders.com where there are several parts bikes.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-suzuki-katana-600-mufflers-used-condition-came-off-running-bike/151340814156?hash=item233c9d8f4c:g:taQAAOSwDk5TrsEB:rk:4:pf:0&LH_ItemCondition=4

And another exhaust for $99 +

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SUZUKI-89-96-GSX600F-GSX600-KATANA-COMPLETE-EXHAUST-SYSTEM-MUFFLERS-PIPES-OEM/232997113501?fits=Model%3AKatana+600%7CMake%3ASuzuki&hash=item363fb5ce9d%3Ag%3Ac2sAAOSwgYdb4z9R%3Asc%3AUSPSPriority%2127522%21US%21-1&LH_ItemCondition=4

Another $100 free shipping

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1991-suzuki-gsx600-katana-exhaust-muffler-pipes/264101186916?hash=item3d7da84d64%3Ag%3AuDMAAOSwz35bB2J~&LH_ItemCondition=4

$179 free shipping

https://www.ebay.com/itm/88-97-KATANA-600-750-HEADER-EXHAUST-PIPE-MANIFOLD-W-MUFFLERS/253808870808?hash=item3b18300598%3Ag%3AdKIAAOSwOJpbbk7G&LH_ItemCondition=4

[y2ktj]

Funny, 2 of those don't show when I search on my app using several different searches. The second one looks in good shape but they don't use the global shipping program and want $160 in shipping plus 10 import fee

You're probably right. Stock would be easier and then I know it's right. Apparently there is another salvage place near by so I'll see what they have. Other guy is going to get back to me.

[katanarider]

If you just replace what exhaust it originally had, there is a chance that your carbs can just be cleaned without buying any new parts.
If you change the exhaust at this point, you'll for sure have to change the carb configuration.
I really think your going to be happiest just replacing the factory exhaust. With the factory exhaust, you could be riding as soon as next week, or next month.
Change the carbs, well ????? LOL

[92xjunker]

Katanarider your a little paranoid. You can mod in different cans and not have to change the carbs significantly to make that much of a deal about it. Like maybe a needle washer (if they are US model carbs) and adjustment of the metering screws. As stated, the headers are the major concerns on flow change. Easier would be stock, heavy and quiet cans. Fun it making it the way you ready want it.

[katanarider]

What ever you say.

[y2ktj]

Katanarider your a little paranoid. You can mod in different cans and not have to change the carbs significantly to make that much of a deal about it. Like maybe a needle washer (if they are US model carbs) and adjustment of the metering screws. As stated, the headers are the major concerns on flow change. Easier would be stock, heavy and quiet cans. Fun it making it the way you ready want it.

Been back and forth on this. Looking at $240 for damaged stock exhaust or 300 for some with minor scuffs. Did some googling on slip ons and there are some ugly ones out there. Hard to believe that there aren't more options for replacement mufflers. Something that looks like the stock mufflers( round and not the more square style) Square looks to euro for my liking. Thinking I'll take a trip to the salvage place and see what they have. The little bit of tube that needs replacing is so minor that if I can get a couple cans for cheap I'll give it a go. From what I've read and been posted here will only need minor carb adjustment and my buddy will help with that. He says just slap some on for now to get it going and replace it later if I'm not happy. For all I know I might hate riding and sell it in a year. I'm trying to not pass the sell it for less than you put into it point.