Oil Change - How To

[Alley_Kat]

I am thinking about doing my next oil change myself. I have no idea how to do this. I am not really mechanically gifted, but want to give it a shot.
Is there a 'how to do an oil change' post somewhere? I searched but could not find one.
preferably with pics.
Thanks

[Jax]

Search the "How To" and "Mechanics Section"...also see the mods you can do while you change your oil...Fumoto valve...Oh yeah don't forget to get a torque wrench if you don't have one...absolutely necessary unless you want to either strip the plug or lose it due to vibration...

[hellcamp]

Oil change how to

[Evil_Betty]

That's a good how-to to follow. I'd recommend that oil filter wrench cap, it will save you a lot of time as they aren't easy to remove without it.

-Justin

[The CyberPoet]

It's a very good write-up, although I don't pre-fill the replacement oil filter (just a bit of oil on the seal), and on a Kat that still has a drain bolt instead of a Fumoto Valve, I do remove the belly pan (to make sure there's enough space for the torque wrench when I reinstall the drain bolt).

I sell OEM oil filters (best you can get), OEM oil filter cap wrench adaptor (to use a 3/8" drive on the oil filter), and a host of other maintenance supplies dirt cheap. You can find details here: CyberpPoet's KR Maintenance & Upgrade Specials for Katana Owners.

What to know:
(A) The fumoto valve upgrade is an once-in-a-lifetime upgrade, and worth every penny at around $25 delivered. www.fumotovalve.com (although someone else posted up a site that gets $3 less previously). You will need to cut away the ridge next to the oil drain bolt on the 98+ Kats to install the fumoto.


(B) If you reuse the drain bolt, torque is 16.5 lb-ft. Go low and the drain bolt will vibrate out; go a lb or two high and you'll strip the oil pan's threads. I recommend using a beam-style torque wrench ($20-$25, sears) rather than a clicker-type, because of the low torque value.

(C) Make sure you pick a suitable oil:


Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[FloridaKat]

The only thing I would add is wrapping the exhaust headers just below the filter with aluminum foil. It will help cut down on smoking once completed.

Neat trick with filling the filter with oil...makes sense.

[Tiny1877]

Just did my oil change today, hadn't seen that how-to.

Cyberpoet, rest assured I will be contacting you for an OEM filter wrench. I could not find one today after realizing that the service tech that did my 600mi service apparently torqued my oil filter to about 400ft-lbs.

[The CyberPoet]

Cyberpoet, rest assured I will be contacting you for an OEM filter wrench. I could not find one today after realizing that the service tech that did my 600mi service apparently torqued my oil filter to about 400ft-lbs.

It seems like 400 ft-lbs. The OEM filter is supposed to be spun on until the rubber seal barely touches, then get TWO FULL turns after that (another 720 degrees). That does make it particularly tight.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

[notec]

Excellent post guys. Very good description.

[Tiny1877]

My brother put cold 20W50 oil in his 07 Kawasaki ZZR600 and we had some weird issues. The motor "vapor-locked" the oil and it wasn't circulating, The oil light didn't go out and it wasn't disappearing from the sight glass. Quick search on the ZZR forums and found the solution: Loosen the oil filter and start the motor. It forced the air out (as well as a little oil) but starting oiling the top end. Had a bit of ticking in the top end for a few seconds, but went away shortly thereafter. Tightened the filter back up and did a quick shakedown run to grab lunch and all was well.

Then I had to ride 25mi back home in a torrential downpour.

I'm also very glad I don't have a cartridge filter. Too many parts and such a mess.

[Tiny1877]

Cyberpoet, rest assured I will be contacting you for an OEM filter wrench. I could not find one today after realizing that the service tech that did my 600mi service apparently torqued my oil filter to about 400ft-lbs.

It seems like 400 ft-lbs. The OEM filter is supposed to be spun on until the rubber seal barely touches, then get TWO FULL turns after that (another 720 degrees). That does make it particularly tight.

Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet

I ended up using an adjustable tuner wrench that opened and closed as you turn the ratchet. Had to put some rubber in there for grip before it broke loose, then it seemed like I was twisting that filter off for an hour. Threads are long!!

[md86]

Hammer and screwdriver . That's why I like the K&N filters . They got a 14mm nut on them to make changing cake .

[ZukiFred]

Hammer and screwdriver . That's why I like the K&N filters . They got a 14mm nut on them to make changing cake .

Ummm I think you mean a 17mm md..

[notec]

I just noticed that the Haynes manual calls for 20-25nm or 18-25ftlbs for the drain plug...........sounds to me like they need to do some research before they put out their books.

Nothing like bad info.......unless they sell oilpans too

[WildKat]

The only thing I would add is wrapping the exhaust headers just below the filter with aluminum foil. It will help cut down on smoking once completed.

Neat trick with filling the filter with oil...makes sense.

Indeed, that's something I always do as well because that oil from the filter just drips everywhere when you remove it.

I also remove the belly pan fairing just so it's a bit easier to get to the drain bolt and filter. Only take a minute to undo all the bolts plus it gives you a chance to clean it up afterward since you tend to get a lot of dirt and debris on the inside of that fairing.