Tweet
Install and Review of T-Rex Racing 98+ frame sliders
Install Procedure Difficulty: easy to medium
(can you pull a wheel? you can do this!)
Item Website:
Price: $79.95 +Ship
Tools Needed:
to remove fairings:
4/5/6mm hex/allen bits and ratchet with extension to remove fairings
Stubby Phillips
Plastic pop rivet removal tool
to install sliders:
5/6/8mm hex/allen bits with ratchet and extension
12mm socket and extension
Torque wrench
rubber hammer
Dremel with grinding bit (MAYBE)
I was looking up parts on Ebay, and found last week that T-Rex racing had
started making frame sliders for the 98+ GSXF600/750.
Since my current Braunstein sliders were...defunct, to say it nicely, I decided
to order a set from T-rex. They arrived in 4 days, and I found that they were
amazingly stout, and well made(and cheaper than other makers)
the plastic sliders themselves have a molded in aluminum insert, and are pretty
good looking in appearance, with a grooved finish.
this is the rear of the slider showing the aluminum insert.
All hardware included is hex socket head and is gold colored cadmium plated
for corrosion resistance.
The slider brackets themselves are welded steel, heavy duty, black powder
coated and bolt on via an aluminum rear frame clamp, AND to the engine
cradle bolts.
The Brackets are shaped and machined to fit the frame pretty closely.. we'll find
out later that this can be a problem with sloppy weld variance from Suzuki
(or not enough machining from T-rex:d)
Below is what comes with the kit:
Left/right frame clamp and brackets
1 pair 4" sliders
Hardware necessary for install
Very clear instructions, with pics.
1 Trex racing sticker(for you sticker = HP gain folks
)
Now, if you look at the link above, and the pic above, you'll notice that the
kit I got does not have any white plastic spacers... I think those were just
for display, i see no place where they would go on the installed item.
on to the install:
The installation pics are demonstrated on the right side of the bike, same
procedure either side
this pic shows the left and right brackets, and the rear aluminum frame clamp,
with hardware. note how the brackets are machined to fit the frame closely:
Step 1 : take off Fairings. if yer not sure how to do this, there is a sticky
in the FAQ section: http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=67087
Step 2 : remove my old Braunstein slider bracket. This required a propane
torch to heat the loctite. You can obviously see the the massive difference in the
two kits, from above, and this pic.
Step 3 : Locate and remove the right side engine cradle bolts. Circled in
red, using the 12mm socket and ratchet.
Step 4 : Put bracket on, check fit, and for cradle bolt and bracket alignment,
this is where the rubber hammer comes in, to help align the bracket without
marking it.
NOTE: this is where I found a problem. Suzuki welds were sloppy on the frame
area, and I had to relieve the inner portion of the bracket to clear the weld, using a
Dremel with a grinding wheel.
First use a rubber hammer to find where it interferes (the frame will mark the powder
coat), and then relieve that portion of the bracket with the Dremel.
This is easy, and took approximately 3 minutes or so.(I had to repeat the procedure
on the left side as well, but only lightly.
below shows the area I had to relieve to clear the sloppy frame weld.
Step 5 : install replacement 8mm engine cradle bolts and the aluminum rear
frame bracket clamp.
tighten 6mm frame clamp bolts to 16ftlbs, and 8mm engine cradle bolts to 20ftlbs
obviously in the pic below, everything isn't tightened yet.
Step 6 : install the slider using the 10mm hex socket bolt, tighten to 20Ft/lbs
step 7 : reinstall fairings
left side:
right side:
Approximate time to install, 1hr 15mins (most of that is fairing removal/install)
Hope this helps anyone looking into buying these.
The hardware appears sturdy enough to actually stand on, there's not a hint of
wiggle or flex on the mounts or the plastic itself.
I have no idea how they'll hold up in a crash of course, I'm not going to test that, and frankly, I hope I never have to.
Install Procedure Difficulty: easy to medium
(can you pull a wheel? you can do this!)
Item Website:
Price: $79.95 +Ship
Tools Needed:
to remove fairings:
4/5/6mm hex/allen bits and ratchet with extension to remove fairings
Stubby Phillips
Plastic pop rivet removal tool
to install sliders:
5/6/8mm hex/allen bits with ratchet and extension
12mm socket and extension
Torque wrench
rubber hammer
Dremel with grinding bit (MAYBE)
I was looking up parts on Ebay, and found last week that T-Rex racing had
started making frame sliders for the 98+ GSXF600/750.
Since my current Braunstein sliders were...defunct, to say it nicely, I decided
to order a set from T-rex. They arrived in 4 days, and I found that they were
amazingly stout, and well made(and cheaper than other makers)
the plastic sliders themselves have a molded in aluminum insert, and are pretty
good looking in appearance, with a grooved finish.
this is the rear of the slider showing the aluminum insert.
All hardware included is hex socket head and is gold colored cadmium plated
for corrosion resistance.
The slider brackets themselves are welded steel, heavy duty, black powder
coated and bolt on via an aluminum rear frame clamp, AND to the engine
cradle bolts.
The Brackets are shaped and machined to fit the frame pretty closely.. we'll find
out later that this can be a problem with sloppy weld variance from Suzuki
(or not enough machining from T-rex:d)
Below is what comes with the kit:
Left/right frame clamp and brackets
1 pair 4" sliders
Hardware necessary for install
Very clear instructions, with pics.
1 Trex racing sticker(for you sticker = HP gain folks
)Now, if you look at the link above, and the pic above, you'll notice that the
kit I got does not have any white plastic spacers... I think those were just
for display, i see no place where they would go on the installed item.
on to the install:
The installation pics are demonstrated on the right side of the bike, same
procedure either side
this pic shows the left and right brackets, and the rear aluminum frame clamp,
with hardware. note how the brackets are machined to fit the frame closely:
Step 1 : take off Fairings. if yer not sure how to do this, there is a sticky
in the FAQ section: http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=67087
Step 2 : remove my old Braunstein slider bracket. This required a propane
torch to heat the loctite. You can obviously see the the massive difference in the
two kits, from above, and this pic.
Step 3 : Locate and remove the right side engine cradle bolts. Circled in
red, using the 12mm socket and ratchet.
Step 4 : Put bracket on, check fit, and for cradle bolt and bracket alignment,
this is where the rubber hammer comes in, to help align the bracket without
marking it.
NOTE: this is where I found a problem. Suzuki welds were sloppy on the frame
area, and I had to relieve the inner portion of the bracket to clear the weld, using a
Dremel with a grinding wheel.
First use a rubber hammer to find where it interferes (the frame will mark the powder
coat), and then relieve that portion of the bracket with the Dremel.
This is easy, and took approximately 3 minutes or so.(I had to repeat the procedure
on the left side as well, but only lightly.
below shows the area I had to relieve to clear the sloppy frame weld.
Step 5 : install replacement 8mm engine cradle bolts and the aluminum rear
frame bracket clamp.
tighten 6mm frame clamp bolts to 16ftlbs, and 8mm engine cradle bolts to 20ftlbs
obviously in the pic below, everything isn't tightened yet.
Step 6 : install the slider using the 10mm hex socket bolt, tighten to 20Ft/lbs
step 7 : reinstall fairings
left side:
right side:
Approximate time to install, 1hr 15mins (most of that is fairing removal/install)
Hope this helps anyone looking into buying these.
The hardware appears sturdy enough to actually stand on, there's not a hint of
wiggle or flex on the mounts or the plastic itself.
I have no idea how they'll hold up in a crash of course, I'm not going to test that
, and frankly, I hope I never have to.
Comment