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Got my HIDs installed

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  • Got my HIDs installed

    Got and installed my HID kit today. Couldn't really see the difference during the day, so I waited till night to take pics. Kit is a 4300k on a pre.

    HID Low beam, no flash:


    HID Low beam, with camera flash:


    View of the headlight, HID:


    Halogen high beam:


    Note that the high beam is NOT that bright. The camera didnt want to focus on it and gave it a reallllly long exposure time.

    This is the kit I bought: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/hid-k...mZ170263863465 in a H4 package with 4300k bulbs. There isn't really much of a glare problem with this kit (despite what my crappy camera shows) because on the bulb assembly there is actually a glare shield, preventing the HID from shining upwards. If you closely examine a halogen bulb, you'll see it has the same setup: the low filament has a shield, the high does not. This gives it an alright cutoff even without a projector lens in front. A projector still gives a vastly superior cutoff though; I'm merely stating that this particular kit won't blind the hell out of everyone.

    While riding home I noticed it was brighter, but the light needs to be brought up a good bit. A majority of the light is going only a few feet in front of the tire. The high beam I didn't actually try while riding tonight. One of my favorite things about it is the headlight doesn't dim when voltage drops at idle. It stays at a constant brightness regardless of electrical load. I like it, but it needs re aiming to be great. I'd also like to make a delayed turn on circuit so I don't have to worry about frying the bulb while cranking.
    The fuel injected Katana project

  • #2
    Is the bulb the HID with the halogen component with it? Does the HID bulb shut down when you turn on the high beams and only the halogen lights up? If so, could you just turn on the High beams while cranking to start it up, and save the yourself from frying the bulb? Just curious.
    Semper Fi
    1 Mar Div 3rd LAR BN (01-05)

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    • #3
      Yeah the halogen bulb is right next to the hid lamp. That's exactly what I do though, switch the high beam on before turning the ignition on so the hid won't fire until the bike is running and switched back to the low beam. On the kat the high and low are wired separately so the hid is completely off when the high beam is on.
      The fuel injected Katana project

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      • #4
        Could you post images of how that is wired up?

        I am curious to see how the two are wired separately.

        Tmod
        Last edited by Tmod; 09-30-2008, 10:24 PM.

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        • #5
          Its actually pretty neat how they do it. The base of the light has both bulbs and a reflector built onto it. The high beam goes directly to the H4 plug where a normal bulb would connect. The low beam goes from the H4 plug to the ballast and then back to the light itself. So at the plug for the headlight it branches off with one set of wires going to the light and the other going to the ballast. The ballast then connects to the hid. I'm at work right now but ill post a picture when I get home. I took one before installing the hid just showing the bulb itself with the included wiring.
          The fuel injected Katana project

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          • #6
            Ok I would appreciate that. I am interested in the base of the bulb.

            Thanks!!

            Tmod

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            • #7
              Well before I left work I readjusted the headlight's aim. The difference was amazing, I can see much better now with just the low beam and even on a dark 2 lane road opposing traffic didn't flash at me. Following behind other cars the cutoff is a few inches below the top of their trunk lid. I pulled the bulb out so I could take some pictures and fix the weatherboot on the back of the headlight.

              First heres a picture of a stock halogen bulb so you can see the reflector that prevents the low beam from blinding people:



              You see its not actually the wattage of the high beam thats blinding; its the lack of the reflector. That reflector over the low beam keeps all the light output below the headlamp.

              Heres the HID bulb:



              The tall skinny bulb is the HID. You can see the large reflector behind it. It's still not as good as having a true projector lens in front, but I'd say the glare is no worse than a standard halogen with that shield there.

              A view from behind the reflector:



              Note that again the high beam is completely uncovered by the reflector, so it gives you more light up high, allowing you to illuminate elevated signs and peoples rear view mirrors.

              Heres the base of the bulb:



              The only thing I don't like about it is its made of plastic. I think theyre all this way though, not just the ebay ones. It's pretty thick so I don't see it breaking or melting, but metal gives you a little extra reassurance. I think the halogen high is probably a good bit hotter than the HID anyway, and the halogen is sitting on a ceramic insulator so its probably a nonissue. The base has three tabs in an upside down Y configuration, same as a standard H4.

              Lastly, another pic of the bulb from a different angle:



              Hope these pics show what you're looking for, if not let me know before I reinstall the bulb tomorrow morning.

              Now I'm going to go against my better judgement and post up what I did to my wiring harness for a test run: Nothing*. Strictly as a test, I did NOT use any relays despite my numerous posts detailing how to make a wiring harness. I wanted to see exactly how many amps the bulbs ignition would draw and I wanted to see if the stock wiring would hold. Everything was carefully watched to ensure there would be no fires started or plugs melted. I half expected the fuse to blow upon the first ignition, but prepared to deal with the potential consequences I tried it anyway to crack the myth of the melted harnesses. The only reason I tried was because if anything went wrong I can fix it; if you can't fix it, dont try this.

              Anyway, looking at the wiring diagram the headlight is on its own circuit, with its own fuse. It's completely separate from the rest of the bike (despite what I said to jimwag in an earlier PM. My bad, thought the taillight was there too.) so if there was a problem it would be pretty much contained. The sticker on the ballast claims a max draw of 10amps. The stock fuse is 10 amps so I figured it would be safe to try. I hooked my ammeter up to the ballast but the rush of current at startup tapers down so quickly I wasn't able to get a good reading on it. No fuses blew, nothing got hot, never had any voltage drop issues. I have the relay and wire needed here already, but I'm going to hold off for a few days just as an experiment.

              *The only modifcation to my headlight harness is splicing in an additional ground from the headlight plug directly to the frame. I was having extreme ground saturation problems when the headlight (stock) was turned on and it was messing with the EFI sensors. To correct this I ran a 14 gauge wire from the headlight ground (black/white wire at bulb) to one of the oil cooler mounting bolts. I did not cut the original ground, I merely T'd off the ground and gave it another path.

              Heres a diagram of how the kit is wired. It all goes through a H4 plug, so it plugs directly into where your stock headlight would connect. I didn't bother taking a real picture, but I can if you need.

              Last edited by TheSteve; 10-01-2008, 01:17 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
              The fuel injected Katana project

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              • #8
                I've had my HIDs installed for about a year and a half. -Love 'em. Everytime I've done night-rides with other riders, they all want my bike up front so they can see better. Plus I'll be the one to hit the deer. -It's a lot like being the point man in Vietnam.
                =USAF= Retired




                "If you can be convinced of an absurdity, you can be made to commit an atrocity." -Voltaire

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                • #9
                  I want 'em, I want 'em, I want 'em, I want 'em.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks for those images is it possible or am I too late to get one of the connectors on the back side of the bulb?

                    Tmod

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                    • #11
                      I'll take a pic of it on the bike. It looks like a standard bulb (but plastic) though instead of a plug it just has the 4 wires coming right out of it.
                      The fuel injected Katana project

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                      • #12
                        I cant fit the camera in there to get you any sort of decent picture of it. Maybe jimwag can take one when his arrives, I shipped his kit off yesterday.
                        The fuel injected Katana project

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                        • #13
                          Ok no problem, thanks.

                          Tmod

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                          • #14
                            Figured I'd give you guys an update. It's been almost two weeks I've had the HID installed and I still haven't had any problems with fuses or hot/melted plugs. I'm thinking the relay kits aren't really needed after all. I'm not sure if its the upgraded ground or just the lower average amp draw of the HID but even on an extended 200+ mile trip I just took I had zero problems.

                            Keep in mind this is on a Pre, a post with dual lights might be a different story.
                            The fuel injected Katana project

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                            • #15
                              I got myself HID kit too. I payed a little extray for a slim ballast. I got a 6000K bulb with about the same shield set up. I know that there are to kinds of ballast. A 55W and a 35W. I know the 55W is brighter but wouldn't that harm the headligth or wiring on the bike. Or am I wrong all together?

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