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This "How To" goes along with my Hyper Lites install I did late last year, in the sense that I wanted to make the Kat more visible.
Always being envious of those bikes that had turn signal running lights, I've been wanting to convert the Kat's signals to running lights to make the front end more visible to oncoming traffic, especially during the winter season. Up to this point the only way to do so, besides wiring another small bulb into the signal housing, was to spend around $100 to get a turn signal/running light conversion gadget.
Recently I found a much less expense way of doing the conversion. Custom Dynamics has a device that will convert any single filament turn signal bulb into a turn signal and running light with 100% illumination, meaning the bulb is not dimmed for the running light function. The cost for the gizmo is $32 plus shipping.
This pic shows the gizmo itself and the five (5) wires needed to hook up. Notice that the blue wire is not used for this application. I just snipped it off where it exits out of the gizmo. The blue wire is an active wire so you must do something to prevent it for grounding or shorting out.
First step is to find a switched 12V power source to power the running lights. I have a Blue Sea power pannel, so finding a switched hot wire was easy. This is a borrowed pic when I did my Hawe Oiler install, this way you can see what it looks like mounted. The switched 12V power source will be connected to the RED wire on the "Turn Signal Input Side".
Here's the instructions for wiring the "Magic Blinkers". Make note of the "optional load equalizer", because the instruction don't say it is needed. More to come on this subject. The rest of the four (4) wires will be wired to the existing turn signal wires. Cut off the stock connector with enough wire to be able to solder in the wires from the gizmo this way:
Right Side Wires
The GREEN turn signal wire is connected to the WHITE wire on the "Turn Signal Input Side" of the gizmo. The BLACK wire from the turn signal will be wired to the BLACK wire on the "Turn Signal Input Side" of the gizmo.
On the "Turn Signal Output Side", the GREEN wire from the stock connector is connected to the YELLOW wire comming from the "Turn Signal Output Side" of the gizmo. Lastly, the BLACK wire from the stock connector is wired to the BLACK wire from the "Turn Signal Output Side" of the gizmo.
Left Side Wires
The BLACK wire with WHITE dots will be connected to the WHITE wire from the "Turn Signal Input Side" of the gizmo. The BLACK wire with WHITE strip will be connected to the BLACK wire from the "Turn Signal Input Side" of the gizmo.
On the "Turn Signal Output Side", the YELLOW wire is connected to the BLACK wire with WHITE dots. And lastly, BLACK wire from the gizmo is connected to the BLACK wire with WHITE strip from the stock turn signal wire.
Now you just need to find a mounting spot for these two devices. This pic shows where I mounted it to the right side.
I uesd a hot melt glue gun and I had to use my Dremmel tool to sand away the paint for the glue to stick. When I tried to glue it to the painted surface, it was loose the next day. This is pic for the the mounting location for the left side. You will notice an arrow pointing to where I first tried to mount the gadget to the plastic headlight mount, but it too became loose after testing it's adhesion.
Now you''ll also notice in these pics of another black box with wires. I found out the with the gizmo hooked up, that the stock turn signal flasher would think that a bulb was burnt out and flash at a double rate, because the gizmo draws very low power from the stock flasher. I suspect that the gizmo dosen't even use power from the flasher, it just needs the signal from it, so it knows when the flasher has been turned on. As a result I had to buy a Universal Turn Signal Load Equalizer to put back a load on the turn signals. I bought the 4 Amp one, but maybe I should have gotton the 2 Amp, because even with the turn signal plug disconnected, it still flashes at a regular rate. It's cost is $15.25.
The way to wire this device is that one PURPLE wire is connected to the WHITE wire on the "Turn Signal Input Side", and the other PURPLE wire is connected to the other WHITE wire. Then the BLACK wire goes to a common ground. Here's a illustration of a typical install of the equalizer.
Well that's it. They work as advertised, and I didn't have to spend a least a $100 to get exactly what I wanted. On to my next farkle, an oil cooler guard.
Always being envious of those bikes that had turn signal running lights, I've been wanting to convert the Kat's signals to running lights to make the front end more visible to oncoming traffic, especially during the winter season. Up to this point the only way to do so, besides wiring another small bulb into the signal housing, was to spend around $100 to get a turn signal/running light conversion gadget.
Recently I found a much less expense way of doing the conversion. Custom Dynamics has a device that will convert any single filament turn signal bulb into a turn signal and running light with 100% illumination, meaning the bulb is not dimmed for the running light function. The cost for the gizmo is $32 plus shipping.
This pic shows the gizmo itself and the five (5) wires needed to hook up. Notice that the blue wire is not used for this application. I just snipped it off where it exits out of the gizmo. The blue wire is an active wire so you must do something to prevent it for grounding or shorting out.
First step is to find a switched 12V power source to power the running lights. I have a Blue Sea power pannel, so finding a switched hot wire was easy. This is a borrowed pic when I did my Hawe Oiler install, this way you can see what it looks like mounted. The switched 12V power source will be connected to the RED wire on the "Turn Signal Input Side".
Here's the instructions for wiring the "Magic Blinkers". Make note of the "optional load equalizer", because the instruction don't say it is needed. More to come on this subject. The rest of the four (4) wires will be wired to the existing turn signal wires. Cut off the stock connector with enough wire to be able to solder in the wires from the gizmo this way:
Right Side Wires
The GREEN turn signal wire is connected to the WHITE wire on the "Turn Signal Input Side" of the gizmo. The BLACK wire from the turn signal will be wired to the BLACK wire on the "Turn Signal Input Side" of the gizmo.
On the "Turn Signal Output Side", the GREEN wire from the stock connector is connected to the YELLOW wire comming from the "Turn Signal Output Side" of the gizmo. Lastly, the BLACK wire from the stock connector is wired to the BLACK wire from the "Turn Signal Output Side" of the gizmo.
Left Side Wires
The BLACK wire with WHITE dots will be connected to the WHITE wire from the "Turn Signal Input Side" of the gizmo. The BLACK wire with WHITE strip will be connected to the BLACK wire from the "Turn Signal Input Side" of the gizmo.
On the "Turn Signal Output Side", the YELLOW wire is connected to the BLACK wire with WHITE dots. And lastly, BLACK wire from the gizmo is connected to the BLACK wire with WHITE strip from the stock turn signal wire.
Now you just need to find a mounting spot for these two devices. This pic shows where I mounted it to the right side.
I uesd a hot melt glue gun and I had to use my Dremmel tool to sand away the paint for the glue to stick. When I tried to glue it to the painted surface, it was loose the next day. This is pic for the the mounting location for the left side. You will notice an arrow pointing to where I first tried to mount the gadget to the plastic headlight mount, but it too became loose after testing it's adhesion.
Now you''ll also notice in these pics of another black box with wires. I found out the with the gizmo hooked up, that the stock turn signal flasher would think that a bulb was burnt out and flash at a double rate, because the gizmo draws very low power from the stock flasher. I suspect that the gizmo dosen't even use power from the flasher, it just needs the signal from it, so it knows when the flasher has been turned on. As a result I had to buy a Universal Turn Signal Load Equalizer to put back a load on the turn signals. I bought the 4 Amp one, but maybe I should have gotton the 2 Amp, because even with the turn signal plug disconnected, it still flashes at a regular rate. It's cost is $15.25.
The way to wire this device is that one PURPLE wire is connected to the WHITE wire on the "Turn Signal Input Side", and the other PURPLE wire is connected to the other WHITE wire. Then the BLACK wire goes to a common ground. Here's a illustration of a typical install of the equalizer.
Well that's it. They work as advertised, and I didn't have to spend a least a $100 to get exactly what I wanted. On to my next farkle, an oil cooler guard.
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