Swap coils, if it still doing the same thing then look at the carb again. If it moves with the coil. You need a new coil. Also, check your plug wires and plug boots. The coil, wire and boot spec are in the manual.

Are you 100% sure the coil wires are correctly lined up?

1-4 left coil, 2-3 right coil.

Krey

good call

yes, coil wires are correctly lined up with 1-4 left coil and 2-3 right coil. I trimmed back the coil wires at the boots and cleaned the screw connection in each boot. I measured all four boots at 11k ohm and the secondaries at 15K each and then measured my totals boot to boot at 37K for each coil. running it my number 1 is now firing but my number three is not firing. gonna swap and old plug back in and verify min 11v at each coil.. if that doesn't work, I guess I'll be swapping the coils (for sure the 2,3 coil will reach the 1,4 plugs?

looking at the coils in anticipation of checking the supply voltage and swapping them, I can see a mojo with hoses on it above each coil. the hoses connect below the exhaust ports and I think this is an exhaust gas recirculation system (read something calling it PAIR). I'm pretty sure this bike was originally bought in NY. can I or should I remove these solenoids? is there a best/easy way to plug the exhaust ports? It's cold in NJ right now to work outside so if I do remove the solenoids, I would rather plug them the easy way for now and get the bike running then revisit in the spring//

You can remove the entire second air (PAIR) CA model emissions system with no ill effects on the bike at all. Cap the bottom of the carb vents, swap to a single vacuum line for the petcock removing the T, and use some aluminum stock to make block off plates on the engine. The aluminum stock is easy to find at any hardware/home improvement store.

Krey

plugging PAIR

I doubt my bike is from CA. My carb jets and needle were not CA and I'm pretty sure it was originally bought in NY. To be clear, the PAIR solenoids are above the coils and each have two hoses? can I just disconnect and plug those four hoses and then the electrical connections and remove the solenoids?? (looks like there is a bigger hose on the back, and I'm guessing that makes it's way to airbox and is removed/plugged?


Oh, and how do I insert a picture here? when I click the attach image, it opens a windo asking me for an http path....

I would get around to installing blocking plates below the exhaust ports in the spring. Do thos bolts come out easy enough without removing the exhaust?

If you have the pair system, it is a Cali spec bike. They were sold all over the country.

You should have a y hose to the bottom of the carbs. Search for hose routing and plumb that way. Then remove the pairsystem. And cap the holes on the head.

If you pull the pair system, bike wont be able to operate normally without block off plates installed. I pulled my pair system off a couple years ago, bike is happier for it.

no PAIR here??

on the bottom of my carbs, I only have the two overflow tubes that go to the T split. But certainly there is one semi rigid hose connection beneath each exhaust port and then there are these two solenoid looking things above my coils. I took pics and will do a search on posting pics here.. seemed to only allow web links to pics like if one has a photobucket account.. or instagram?? I could post the pics there is that is a way,.

Imgur.com for hosting the pics. Sign up, load the pics... post them here with a link.

Krey

Pair pics

thanks Kreylyn,
here is a pic of the solenoids.. the four houses are routed to flanges directly beneath the exhaust pipe flanges on front of the head..

that pic didn't attach?

that pic didn't attach?

just gaining access to the plug wires, I found this un-used pigtail push on connector (yellow wire coming off black gang connector). is this supposed to be connected??

lastly, progress for the night (bang my head). Wondering if the coil might fire a plug in open air, but not under compression, I hooked up a spark tester and started the bike.. I could see the tester light up (cool pic attached) but again, looking at exhaust pipe temps, # 3 still wasn't getting hot. So I figured that #3 carb must not be getting fuel and pulled the carb rack half off to access the drain screw and guess what? no couldn't be easy, THE FRIGGING CARB BOWL HAD FUEL. So now I go back to the 2/3 coil and measure supply voltage to the coil orange/white wire.. with 12V at the battery (I have a car battery with jumper cables and I guess the car battery a tad low, but it starts the bike...), I had 10.8 V at the coil. Yes, under 11V but running, the bike would be charging the battery to around 13.5V.. so just to make sure, I connected a battery charger to the battery so now with the battery at 12.5V, the coil was at 11.3V (the same 1.2V drop. That's a little higher drop through the ignition switch (and whatever) than I'd like to see but the bike starts and the #2 was firing as well as the other coil firing the 1 & 4. So now I don't see the sense in swapping coils (tomorrow, I'll check supply voltage to the 1,4 coil) and I'm back looking at the carb pilot circuit..[IMG][/IMG]

sorry, just learning IMGUR

pics look ridiculously large in my monitor.

Yup, that is the Cali crap.

The plug problem has been know to happen under compression........on highly boosted motors. I'm going on an educated guess, it's a fuel issue. Are the plugs wet? What is the coil input voltage? 11v+?

The #3 plug was clean and dry (but today I pulled it cold from running last night). the first time I pulled plug three, it was not noticeably different (wet or sooty) than the other plugs so I imagine cylinder 3 was firing at one time. but running for a while on the new plugs, plug 3 was not blackened at all like there was no combustion in the cylinder. with 12V at the battery, I had 10.8V at the coil. when I raised the battery voltage with a charger, I had the same 1.2V drop. 1.2V seems a tad high but it started and the rest of the bike was running, And I had correct resistance plug boot to plug boot. and I saw spark with a grounded plug in the boot and with my tester in series with the installed plug under compression. was there compression? check tomorrow. I'm ruling out electrics and I did have fuel in the bowl. Maybe it's compression. I would think when I reved it up, even if the primary circuit was clogged, the intermediate would deliver fuel to fire but the exhaust pipe never got hot. when I hit the starter today with the PAIR hoses off, I could hear it huffing.., not popping, out of the hoses. could it be a stuck open exhaust valve or something stuck in the pair?