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**92xjunker** · 06-26-2016, 11:12 AM

Use rust buster not WD40.. Your clutch theory is correct. I would pull the pack. There isn't enough miles to wear the clutch out, unless car oil was used..

**shpielers** · 06-26-2016, 11:20 AM

You can also pull the fuel sender off on the bottom of the tank and hit the locking mechanism from the other side.

**mcgyverit** · 06-26-2016, 11:24 AM

thanks for the quick responses, will give them a try.

**mcgyverit** · 06-27-2016, 06:28 AM

using some of the suggestions above was able to finally get the gas cap to pop open. the way some people treat their bikes is amazing. I am always surprised that someone would spend that kind of money and throw it away.

lots of expected rust as evident when I removed the petcock.

and the gas that came out was reddish. then removed the fuel sender and got a good look inside, fugly.

but with that allowing access and liberal amounts of chemicals I was finally able to open the cap

**Kreylyn** · 06-27-2016, 07:50 AM

I'd suggest you disassemble the fuel cap and do a full cleaning and polish on the parts. This would negate any need for a "lube" to make it work right, but if you do use one, make it a dry silicone lube.

Por-15 is the tank treatment and coating for rust I'd go with.

I've personally found that cleaning up the fuel tank and fuel sender by using the electrolysis method works amazingly well, and only takes a 24 hour sit for basic rust and grime.

Assuming from your prior messages you have a decent handle on things, I'd definately second doing a full tear down and cleaning on the carbs, full service on switching the oil and filters (stick with OEM style air filter and air box).

As for the clutch, it may be stuck... Yes, there are normally 2 rods. At this point, I would go ahead and open the side cover up and pull the clutch pack out to make sure they are not stuck together, and are in usable shape.

Krey

**mcgyverit** · 06-30-2016, 06:25 AM

in exploring a little more it seemed when pushing on the rod from the left side of the bike there was no return like I expected. assuming there is a spring back issue.

so I took off the clutch cover after draining the oil last night as suggested. removed the bolts holding the springs and was hoping that the springs were broke, but all of them looked good.

removed the cover and this is what I saw. if you look behind the bearing you can see the Hex Nut/Washers sitting well below the shaft.

I pulled the bearing off the shaft, but you can see the Hex Nut / Washers off center a little more:

so then I pulled the shaft out along with the Hex Nut / Washers and this seems to be the issue:

I am guessing that the Hex Nut came off the threaded piece and therefore no clutch.

so my questions would be:
anyone have this happen before?
what kind of damage am I looking at if any?

I checked all the rods and none were broken, couldn't find any signs of issues with them. I didn't pull the clutch plates or discs

obviously the Nut isn't going back on in its current condition, so I fiddled with the clutch pack and it slid back into place where the shaft is now sticking out ~1" and the nut and washers can now go back on.

**Kreylyn** · 06-30-2016, 07:41 AM

Originally posted by mcgyverit View Post

in exploring a little more it seemed when pushing on the rod from the left side of the bike there was no return like I expected. assuming there is a spring back issue.

so I took off the clutch cover after draining the oil last night as suggested. removed the bolts holding the springs and was hoping that the springs were broke, but all of them looked good.

removed the cover and this is what I saw. if you look behind the bearing you can see the Hex Nut/Washers sitting well below the shaft.

I pulled the bearing off the shaft, but you can see the Hex Nut / Washers off center a little more:

so then I pulled the shaft out along with the Hex Nut / Washers and this seems to be the issue:

I am guessing that the Hex Nut came off the threaded piece and therefore no clutch.

so my questions would be:
anyone have this happen before?
what kind of damage am I looking at if any?

I checked all the rods and none were broken, couldn't find any signs of issues with them. I didn't pull the clutch plates or discs

obviously the Nut isn't going back on in its current condition, so I fiddled with the clutch pack and it slid back into place where the shaft is now sticking out ~1" and the nut and washers can now go back on.

I don't see any, but are the threads damaged? You said the nut wasn't going back on, so I assume it's the part that is damaged?

If it's just the nut, replace it and you should be fine.

Krey

**mcgyverit** · 06-30-2016, 08:36 AM

The nut wouldn't go back on in the current position as shown in the pic. but after I fiddled with the clutch pack by rotating it slightly left/right if slipped in and left about 1" of thread sticking out. with it in that position now, it can all go back together now I believe.

**mcgyverit** · 07-03-2016, 11:34 AM

so I started reassembly of the clutch, mostly to see if I put it back together, I would then get a proper clutch feel.

last bolt to torque up:

I then went ahead and installed the cover on the left side just to see if there was a difference, and behold, clutch is back! so looks like I need to order some parts if I cant get that stud out without damaging the part. success rate is only about 50% but will see.

since the clutch seems to be resolved, I move on to pulling the carbs. way easier than my V65 for sure. found several hoses and tubes that will be needing replacement, along with screws for the float bowl. previous owner rolled out the heads enough so that they were not coming off without some work

**mcgyverit** · 07-03-2016, 04:52 PM

was breaking down the carbs and discovered additional parts that don't match up to the book that hold the floats in place.

this isn't shown on the exploded view in the books that I have but they show it on the exploded parts view.

**92xjunker** · 07-03-2016, 05:00 PM

Don't see anything odd there, looks like a set of pre floats. It looks like the pilot jet plug is missing or dislodged on carb 1 though.
After looking at, it's dislodged. Time to replace those as well. They do NOT come with the rebuild kit.

**mcgyverit** · 07-05-2016, 08:29 AM

Managed to get the broken bolt stud out of the clutch basket without too many issues, that was a nice way to finish the day.

today the carbs are going to sit in a carb cleaner soak for a while to get the varnish off of everything.

ordering replacement parts for everything that I have found so far, so while I wait, cleaning time.....

**mcgyverit** · 07-05-2016, 09:09 AM

so as I was pulling parts out of my ultra-sonic cleaner I found 4 of these little gems, anyone give me an idea where they go? I am pretty sure they came out of the float assembly, just not sure where and how they go back in.

**Kreylyn** · 07-06-2016, 06:32 PM

Originally posted by mcgyverit View Post

so as I was pulling parts out of my ultra-sonic cleaner I found 4 of these little gems, anyone give me an idea where they go? I am pretty sure they came out of the float assembly, just not sure where and how they go back in.

It's probably the fuel enrichment jets. Insert into the float rails. In your pictures of the carbs above... upper left you see the slight increase in size of the tube for the rails. Thats where they go.

Fuel is pulled through them, up the long brass tube, and squirted directly into the throat of the carbs when you pull on the "choke" lever.

Krey

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