Valve adjustment coming up... now what about tools?

[Yellow]

I'm going to adjust my valve clearances on my 98 600 soon. It's the first time (having nightmares about valve cover bolts stripped by PO) I'm going to pop that valve cover. Now I noticed in a tool thread that you recommended a valve adjustment tool, something like a box wrench - which dimension should this have? Is it absolutely necessary or just a good idea?

I would feel kind of stupid to be ending up with the bike all tore down and being stranded without the right tools. Any other special tool I should have handy? (I've read lots of write-ups about it, and I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, so I'm not really worried about getting it done). I do have some feeler gauges.

My Haynes indicates that I should disconnect the oil hoses and dump the oil before removing the valve cover - is this completely necessary?

Thanks in advance!

[md86]

Well , the oil hoses at the top might need to come off , since (I believe) they're attached to the cylinder head . But the only "special" tool you might need are a torque wrench and some feeler gauges . As for adjusting the gap , your bike has a "shim under bucket" deal IIRC , which is different than mine (screw and locknut) . I don't really know much about those .

[Yellow]

Well , the oil hoses at the top might need to come off , since (I believe) they're attached to the cylinder head . But the only "special" tool you might need are a torque wrench and some feeler gauges . As for adjusting the gap , your bike has a "shim under bucket" deal IIRC , which is different than mine (screw and locknut) . I don't really know much about those .

I've heard it should be screw and locknut in it, only the 92-97 600's had shims:

http://www.maximum-suzuki.com/ibf/index.php?showtopic=36585

[md86]

Well then , that makes it alot easier ! The biggest thing is actually GETTING to the valves . That's what takes the most time . Adjuting them is pretty easy . All you need to actually adjust them then is a couple of ordinary box wrenches .

[Yellow]

Well then , that makes it alot easier ! The biggest thing is actually GETTING to the valves . That's what takes the most time . Adjuting them is pretty easy . All you need to actually adjust them then is a couple of ordinary box wrenches .

Don't have any box wrenches, and my local DIY shop don't carry them either. I'm going to visit some car tool shops it seems... What sizes should I get (preferably metric size)?

[md86]

Damn , box wrenches are about the most common tool there is ! I don't remember what size the locknut is , but if you need to get a few wrenches anyway , I'd suggest getting at LEAST a 10mm,12mm,14mm, maybe an 8mm too for good measure . I seem to use the 10 and 12 more than anything else anyway . The locknut is probably a 10mm I'm wanting to say .

[Meikol2]

Consider a full set of metric combination wrenches. The actual adjustments can be made with a needlenose pliers (takes the place of the factory "adjustment tool") and the combo wrench, I think it is 6-8mm, but I don't remember off hand.

The oil lines need to be disconnected at the top, but you not need to drain the oil.
I would get a replacement valve cover gasket as well. You do need to get the procedure for doing the adjustment. I think there are a few posts about it as well, try searching "valve adjustment".

Special K actually faxed me those pages from the manual (with the specs) when I did mine, as my book wasn't in hand yet. I am sure he can help you. Look in the forum for someone selling a book, one came up last week I believe.

[md86]

I thought the screw was a regular flat-head screwdriver deal . I didn't want to say for sure what sizes either , being as that's a slightly different bike and all . But yeah , that pretty much seems to cover what i missed !

[Black_peter]

The screw for adjusting the valve should just have flats on two sides. I'm guessing the Suzuki tool is just a wrench that fits them real well.
My service manual shows using vise-grips.

+1 on the tools.
Get a good quality combo set.
(A box wrench BTW is the ring type, like a slice of a socket on a bar.)
My dad would say "nothing costs as much as cheap tools"
Craftsman has always done me right..
I know good tools are expensive but they will last forever..
I have Craftsmen tools I've used/abused for 20 years that still work as well as new.
If you get a Metric set you will get 8mm up to as much as 25 depending on the set. As md86
said you will really only use the even sizes and 8, 10, 12, 14 are the biggies. you could just about disassemble the bike with just those 4..
So if cost is an issue buy just those. Same goes for sockets.
Anyone found a 11, 13 or 15 mm screw on their Kat yet??

[Yellow]

Thanks for the explanation for "box wrench", I was just confused with that name of it (english is not my mother tongue). Yeah, I already have those sizes of box wrenches, in good quality. And metric is all we find over here, nobody has a clue about inches, feet, pounds, gallons and whatnot...

Looks like I'm all set then!

[The CyberPoet]

Here's the simple answer:
http://www.motionpro.com/Docs/servicetools_3.html

Motion Pro's description: Heat treated and chrome plated for durability, this set includes three wrenches, 8, 9 & 10mm and three adjusters: screw type and 3 & 4mm square-type. Features interchange adjusters and wrenches for nine different combinations. Fits most motorcycles and ATVs with screw-type tappet adjusters.
Part Number: 08-0073
Sug. Retail: $43.60
Available via any PartsUnlimited vendor (virtually every shop & dealership) and JC Whitney.

Suzuki offers just the driver for the valve square part as Suzuki part number 09917-14910, $4.40 via RonAyers.com or probably about $7 - $9 at your local dealership. Then all you need is the socket and torque wrench. The MotionPro kit combines it, but I think I like the Suzuki driver better.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[Black_peter]

Oh that is sweet!!
$43.. is it a torque wrench too??
Other wise I'm using the $5 Ron Ayers one..

[The CyberPoet]

Oh that is sweet!!
$43.. is it a torque wrench too??

No, but the handles are only about 3.5 to 4" long, meaning that a typical human can't exceed the torque values by using their hands with them (at least not without intentionally trying to). Rotate the handle to loosen the nut, twist the knob on the top to set the clearance (with the feeler gauge in place), then holding the knob steady, retighten the nut. Works better for people with smaller hands -- I had problems holding the knob perfectly steady with the Motion Pro kit while setting the nut again.

On the other hand, with the Suzuki kit, you can't get a socket over the tool, so you have to loosen the nut (remove tool), turn the adjustment with the suzuki tool (while checking adjustment), and then remove the suzuki tool and retighten the nut to torque-spec with a torque wrench, plus recheck the clearances again afterwards to see if they're still in spec. If someone made a torque wrench as a box-ended wrench in the right size, I'd own that

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[illinoiskat]

I just got done adjusting valves. You will need a set of allen wrenches with the little balls on the end of them to get all the head nuts off. Yes you will need a torque wrench to put bolts back in. You dont need the special wrench to adjust vlave clearence. If you have needle nose and a 6mm wrench, you will be set. When you tighten the lock nut you need to hold the valve adjust post with the needle nose. Then recheck the valve clearence. Ya, you need to pull the oil feeder lines off to get the head off. And the frame cross over post must come off too, as well as gas tank. Dont be an A$$ and leave the tank side ways on the bike only to knock it off and dent it like I did. You can leave the engine oil in, its no big deal. I also put lock tight on the threads when I reinstalled. There is a midgrade(strength) high temperature lock tight that I used. Go to the website below for more pictures.

http://www.pacifier.com/~trinc/katana/

[Meikol2]

I forgot about Trinc's write up. Good info he posted.