[squiggy]

I've checked my Flickr album and those pictures are gone. I know Flickr did some changes so I don't know if it happened then.

I'll check to see if I still have them on my computer and repost them.

[Zone07]

looks like images are no longer available

thanks for the info

[Wild-Bill]

I sold my 750 this winter and the CC went with it. Plan is to keep my eyes open for the non-vacuum driven version for my 1100.

I just now noticed the switch mod you did. That's sweet! With the windscreen control on the 1100 I was wondering where I'd be able to fit the CC switches. A bracket like I did for the 750 was going to put the CC switches out of easy reach and it'd look pretty silly sticking that far up. I bet I can fit a switch or two alongside the windscreen button, though!

[vco123]

Your redneck bandsaw just made my day.....

[Wild-Bill]

Other spot I thought about mounting it was under the battery box. The reservoir I built will fit there on the pre and it looks like it's close enough to the swingarm pivot to avoid being hit. Don't know if that'd work on the post, though.

[squiggy]

OK I see now, you have a Pre. For the Post's Kats the place where you mounted the canister is already occupied by the rear shock reservoir. It's definitely a good spot for those that have it available.

[Wild-Bill]

I've got several photos. Check my photobucket album. The photos of the carb hookup are pretty awful but the rest of them aren't too bad. I built a bracket for the controls that used the clutch safety switch mount to hold the control pad above the left switch housing. That turned out pretty nice although I eventually painted the wires with liquid electrical tape. Like I mentioned before, the bracket I built to hold the cable housing at the carbs left too much slack so I had to build a longer one. I've got a photo of that around somewhere but I'm not sure where right now. I'll see about taking a photo of that before I take the CC off my 750 to transfer to the 1100.

http://s730.photobucket.com/albums/ww308/Wild-Bill/CCS-100%20on%20Kat%20750/

[squiggy]

Never had any trouble with vacuum at all. For my canister I used a 6" of 2" diameter PVC pipe and a couple of end caps.

The best canister I made is the large one, the 3"x6" PVC or ABS plumbing stuff. The smaller ones did not do well in holding speed which I suspect it was because of being to small a volume of vacuum. However, the size and mounting it has been the constant issue. But right now since the metal part to the cable broke I have not been using it anyways.

It fit great under the left side cover and there's been no trouble at all with leaks or insufficient vacuum.

Do you have a picture of your canister mounted there?

[BareKat]

This is a project I"d like to take a stab at after I get my engine/bike put back together.

[Wild-Bill]

3 items:

1. Got curious and checked Flea-Bay. Their prices for the fully electronic version are all over the place but all high. Amazon's price is cheaper than even the cheapest on Flea-Bay once you include shipping. May as well go for Amazon.

2. I did the install using the CCS-100 vacuum-driven version. Never had any trouble with vacuum at all. For my canister I used a 6" of 2" diameter PVC pipe and a couple of end caps. It fit great under the left side cover and there's been no trouble at all with leaks or insufficient vacuum.

3. The one problem I had with function was that the CC wouldn't set over about 70 mph. Solved that by building a longer bracket for mounting the cable on the carbs. Now the cable housing mounts all the way forward, by the valve cover and it works great up to about 85 (the fastest I've tried it).

I've enjoyed the CC enough that I'm going to transfer it to my 1100 before I sell the 750. Thanks for the write-up Squiggy! This has been fantastic.

[squiggy]

Small update, Murph'skits, the one in the write-up that sells the pre-fabbed vacuum canisters, now is selling the original, albeit a clone, vacuum controlled cruise control. Here's the link, and I updated the link on the front page.

http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=422&osCsid=66a5dfae69d30ab772f80f8a2410f2e1

However, for $30 more I think I'd go with the fully electronic CC, that I linked with the Amazon ad, as I still had issues trying to deal with the homemade vacuum canister.

[Bart]

Hee-hee...

Careful as... the nuts on the throttle cannot be removed

Yeah, that's my problem... kinda defeats the purpose of cruise control.

=-=-=-=-=

Just kidding, sorry, nothing personal. Your write-up was absolutely fantastic... a bit beyond my skill level for now, but just makes me want to learn new things that much more. Couldn't help but throw in some playful sarcasm... ride on, brother.

[bob393]

That is one serious project!
But thanks for taking the time to write it up for the rest of us.

[squiggy]

Another update, make sure to follow the original shape of the bracket that the throttle cables are bolted to. I did not and when it came time to do a carb sync the cruise control bracket was in the way.

Here's a picture of what it should look like.




The purpose of that cut-out is for the screw to sync carbs 1&2 to 3&4.





Second thing I noticed is that this metal they use is crap. Crap I tell you. When I was removing my carbs to do some work the part that bolts to my homemade brake broke.

You see the cable at the center next to the threads on the right? That's where it broke.

[squiggy]

Just a short update.

Version 3 of the vacuum canister is too thick because the rear tire upon compression rips the canister out of the zip-tie straps under the fender location. So I went to my local plastics store and picked up some scrap acrylic sheets to cut and fabricate a thinner box yet still maintain the same volume of vacuum. I JB Welded the single vacuum check valve to the box itself then cut small length of acrylic tube for the other end.

My second attempt at making the box/canister works good so far.

No pics at this time.