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How To: Install Audiovox Cruise Control On 1998+ Katana - PIC HEAVY

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  • How To: Install Audiovox Cruise Control On 1998+ Katana - PIC HEAVY

    I figured this is more "touring" related than electrical related so I put this write-up here.

    How To Install Audiovox Cruise Control On A 1998+ Katana*

    *See very bottom for pre Katana's

    First thing that you need to do is purchase the Audiovox cruise control, model number CCS100. This unit is a vacuum operated cruise control requiring a vacuum canister.

    The Audiovox cruise control can be bought from a variety of vendors, either local or the internet. This particular one (CCS100) can only now be currently bought from the seller in the link above. However, there may still be new (old stock) ones on ebay.

    When unpacking the box there are three main components: the cruise control unit itself with cable, a.k.a. "Servo Assembly", the wiring harness and the "Dash Mounted Control Switch". What is not included is the vacuum canister. The vacuum canister can be fabricated with simple ABS or PVC plumbing parts. More on that later, or you can buy the genuine article from a places that sell it.

    Step One: Mounting the Cruise Control Unit, "Servo Assembly".

    There are basically two locations to mount the cruise control unit. One is at the very back of the bike.

    Or on the right (throttle) side rear fender panel. This is also where the California emission canister is located.

    Mounting it here, however, required me to cut the tab off the front of the panel with my Dremel tool. I have had no issues with the panel coming loose or rattling for several years now with the tab cut off. This is where I have it now.

    Mounting the unit is via two bolts at whichever location you choose.

    Because of the length of cable, routing the cable for the rear placement of the cruise control unit requires the cable to be placed over the top of the air box towards the carburetor cables. Use zip ties where needed.[no pic taken] If you do mount the servo assembly here, jump down to Step Six to program the servo assembly before you bolt it. You may not be able to access the DIP switches in this mounting location.

    When mounting the cruise control unit along the side, route the cable along the right side frame up to the fuel tank cross brace and loop back towards the carburator cables (under cross brace). Use zip ties where needed.

    Step Two: Drill & Tap Carburetor Stop Tab.

    Using an appropriate drill and tap combo for a 4-40 but no more than a 6-32 screw, drill and tap the throttle stop tab on the carburetor. I used the 6-32 combo and an Allen screw. For the 6-32 Allen screw, you will need a 7/64 Allen driver. You want a screw large enough to be able to hold the the carbs open, yet small enough not to weaken the throttle stop tab.

    You will probably need to lift and hold the tab up to get the best angle and depth to drill & tap in as far as possible. I used a small box wrench to hold open the carbs. I drilled into and past the chrome/silver insert, so the screw would have enough depth to hold open the throttle bodies.

    The end result will look like this pic.

    Which leads to...

    Step Three: Connect the Servo Cable To Carburetor.

    In the cruise control box, in a separate plastic bag, you'll find a L-shaped bracket designed in conjunction with mounting the magnet onto an automobile drive shaft.

    From that bracket, you'll fabricate a mounting bracket to connect the servo cable to the push-pull cables on the carburetor, or you may fabricate one all on your own.

    The holes in the L-bracket do not match the spacing of the carburetor
    cables as they are. So following pic above will create an appropriate bracket for the cruise control cable by drilling one hole 1-1/4" on center from the last hole closest to the L bend. However, to be absolutely sure, measure the your distance yourself.

    In the first set of pics you'll see that I cut slots for the push-pull cables. That is because the nuts that are on the throttle cables can not be removed. You must cut slots to slip on the newly made bracket on top of the carburetor bracket. The nuts for the cruise control cable can be slipped over the cable ball at it's end, so that hole does not need a slot cut into it.

    To cut down and trim away the excess from the L-bracket, all I had was my "Red-Neck Band Saw". WEAR EYE PROTECTION & USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. It actually worked great using an appropriate metal blade installed backwards.

    Attach the homemade cruise control bracket to the push-pull carb cables by loosening the nuts on the throttle cables and with enough slack slip it on top of the carburetor bracket and tighten the throttle cable nuts appropriately with enough movement in the carburetor cables to freely move as they would normally.

    Screw on a nut to the cruise control cable and pass the cable through the hole in the bracket. Screw on the other nut to the cable. Do not yet tighten the nuts.

    Find the "Bead Chain Eyelet Connector" that you see in the picture I used to show the tap & die pic from the installation kit and attach it to the ball end. I had to use a flat blade screwdriver to open the slot in the "Eyelet Connector" enough to slip the cable through, then use pliers to close the gap.

    Attach the "Eyelet Connector" to the carburetor stop tab with the appropriate screw from Step Two. I also used a small washer so there would be no chance of the "Eyelet Connector" slipping out. Use of thread locker is your choice. I also did not screw the "Eyelet Connector" all the way in because of the semi-circular arc of the carburetor stop tab. I left a little gap for play.



    The next pic shows what happened when I made several throttle rotations from idle to wide open throttle.

    That little ball-end became lodged against the carb body. Therefore, using 1/4" heat shrink tubing, cut a piece long enough so that it will cover the area shown in the picture. This way the ball-end can not come out and cause the throttle to stay open. Very, very important to do this.

    Now that the "Eyelet Connector" is attached to the carb stop tab, take out the slack in the cable by adjusting the nuts at the homemade bracket to the specs that are in the installation manual.

    Be very careful not to over tighten the nuts. I did and I striped the threads. Use of a thread locker is recommended since you can not put a lot of torque on the threads.

    Operate the throttle from idle to WOT several times to ensure that the carbs operate as they should. Adjust if necessary.

    Step Four: Vacuum Hoses & Canister.

    In the installation kit there is a vacuum hose that is to be cut into three equal lengths. Slip those three hoses onto the carb vacuum nipples 1,2 & 3. The fourth nipple is being used by the fuel tank petcock. This requires removing the air box & carbs from the intake manifold/boots.

    Another advantage to doing this is you'll have ready made hoses to do a carb sync. The cruise control may or may not need all three hoses pulling vacuum for the canister, but I figure if I'm already in there I'm going to connect all three.

    Join the hoses together with 3/16" T and/or Y-couplers.

    Buy an additional quantity of vacuum hose, to fit the 3/16" couplers, with sufficient length, to route it from where you joined the carb hoses together from the carburetor, out to the vacuum canister at which ever location you decide to mount the canister.

    Fabricate the vacuum canister using simple ABS or PVC plumbing pipes of you choice. ABS seamed to be less expensive of the two, so that's what I used on Version 2 & 3. The shape is of no consequence, but the volume is more important. My second attempt became a donut and my third attempt is more a traditional canister. Specifically what size, I can't say, but I used 3" tubing for the final canister. Maybe a smaller version would work as well.

    For the final Version 3.0 it cost me around $20.00 to purchase the material which included the hose barb.

    To mount the hose barb I drilled a 1/2" hole in the thickest part of the canister, for more meat (plastic), then I screwed on the hose barb which created threads like a metal tap does. From here you can either use JB Weld, or equivalent, to permanently fasten the hose barb or use plumbers tape on the threads. I went the tape route in case something happened where I had to make a new canister. This way I would not have to buy another hose barb.

    I connected my hand vacuum pump, that I use to bleed brakes, to check for leaks. Or you can get a bucket of water and using a vacuum hose, blow into the canister to see if bubbles appear, air bubbles not the monkey.

    If you decide on a single hose barb in the canister, then you need to purchase a two-way vacuum check valve.

    If you decide on two hose barbs into the vacuum canister then you will need to purchase a one-way check valve. The pricing between the two check valves is only a couple dollars difference.

    Route the hose from the carbs to the check valve and canister, then back to the cruise control unit.

    I mounted the canister in the back under the rear tire wheel well using zip ties.

    There is great amount of flexibility in fabricating the vacuum canister. So depending on your mounting location, it could be a long tube, two smaller independent canisters joined together with vacuum hoses or a traditional canister shape, it's your choice.

    You can also buy a ready-made vacuum canister if you wish from Murph's Kits.

    Step Five: Installing The Wiring Harness.

    There are 8 wires that emanate from the 10 pin connector that need to be connected to the motorcycle.

    Black: Ground

    Red: Always +12V DC


    +12 V DC when brake is applied.

    0V DC when brake is released.

    Gray: Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)

    Blue: Tachometer (RPM)

    Brown (for the Dash Mounted Control Switch):

    +12V DC with ignition switch and cruise control switch ON.

    0V DC with ignition switch or cruise control switch off.

    Green (for Dash Mounted Control Switch):

    +12V DC when the SET/COAST button is pressed.

    0V DC when the SET/COAST button is released.

    Yellow (for Dash Mounted Control Switch):

    +12V DC when the RESUME/ACCEL button is pressed.

    0V DV when the RESUME/ACCEL button is released.

    Let's examine each of these wires & I'll explain where each one goes.

    Ground, obvious here.

    Red, there are two ways to connect this wire. The manual says to connect this wire to a constant 12V at the automobile's brake light switch. You'll see the connector for our Katana's brake light in the following pic.

    There are three wires to that plug. The Black with White stripe wire is ground, the Brown wire is constant +12V DC (tail light actually) and the White with Black stripe is the brake light.

    By using a teeny tiny screwdriver remove the Brown wire metal connector pin from the plug. Piggy-back the Red wire from the cruise control harness wire by soldering it to the metal pin. Note: the pic of the soldered wire is not that of the wire and pin for this connection. Then re-install the pin, making sure to align the pin correctly.

    If you connect the Red wire into the brake light, then it's own (brake light) circuit is protected by a fuse

    Caution must be used when soldering these wires via the piggy-back method, because too much solder can prevent the metal pin to seat properly back into the plug.

    Another option is to connect the Red wire directly to the battery with an in-line fuse. I used the same amp rated fuse as the Dash Mounted Control Switch uses: 3 amps

    The two tin cans in the picture hold miscellaneous fuses & small parts.

    Next is the Purple wire. This sees 12V only when the brake light is on. In the same fashion as the Red wire above, remove the White with Black stripe pin from the plug and solder the Purple wire to it.

    Next is the Gray wire. The Gray wire is what separates the "Post" Katana's from the "Pre's". The post Kats have an electronic speedometer (VSS), this is where the Gray wire is connected.

    Pull apart this plug. Like in the steps above, remove the pin for the Pink wire from the plug. You'll need to use a flat head screwdriver or needle nose pliers to open up the metal clamping bands that wrap around the green rubber plug. Then feed only bare wire through the green plug and solder to the metal pin. I made it so that the wire is connected via a pig tailed plug. This way if I need to remove or replace the the VSS, I can just unplug the cruise control wire.

    Note: there is not enough room in the green rubber boot for the Gray wire insulation, therefore cut the insulation up to the green boot and pass bare wire through.

    Re-install the pin, making sure to align the pin correctly. If necessary use a small screwdriver to push the pin in place. Using liquid black tape or hot melt glue etc, put a dab of sealer at the end of the green rubber plug if there is any bare wire exposed from the Gray wire.

    The Blue wire from the cruise control wiring is to be connected to the White (bottom) wire on the left (clutch) side of the coil.

    When I first did this install I striped away the insulation and soldered the Blue wire to the coil wire and wrapped it with black tape. Now I find that Radio Shack has a metal connector clip that can be used to do the same function. The connector clip will slip on the male spade from the coil, then insert the female connector from the bike's wiring harness, then finish off the end of the Blue wire from the cruise control with a female spade plug and connect that to the Radio Shack part.

    The next three wires from the wiring harness, Brown, Green, Yellow are for the Dash Panel. Plus there's an additional two wires from the Dash Panel wiring harness itself for the purpose of illuminating the panel.

    You will have two options here. Install and mount the control panel as it comes with the kit,

    or use a three way momentary switch.

    This switch is a momentary single poll double throw switch, SPDT (ON)OFF(ON). The center position is OFF, the side positions are momentarily ON.

    I purchased the toggle switch and the rubber boot from DigiKey. Part number for the switch is 360-1091-ND and the part number for the rubber boot is 360-1750-ND. The rubber boot is to provide water protection. I actually bought two switches and three rubber boots. I figure the rubber boots will get the most abuse so I wanted extras on hand just in case.

    For either switch installations, the Red wire that has it's own fuse, I connected it to the third eye light, the one that is above the headlight.

    To use the the switch panel that came with the kit, follow the instructions provided in the kit.

    If you choose to use the control panel that came with the kit, there are a couple ways to mount the panel within easy reach. On my first install I used this installation method. Be sure to use silicon sealer on the front and back panel, by separating the halves, to create some measure of water protection.

    The following is for the SPDT Monentary switch:

    By doing this install the cruise control will always be ON.

    If you choose to use the momentary switch: for those who do not have the yellow "Pass" button there is room on the left (clutch) side to mount the switch. My 2001 does not have the pass button so I mounted the switch here on the left side and routed the wires through the bottom switch gear.

    For those who do have the yellow "Pass" button, there is room on the right (throttle) side to mount this switch.

    Solder the Brown & Red wires together on the center terminal. Solder the Yellow wire at one end of the terminal. Then solder the Green wire at the other end of the terminal. The Green wire sets the speed and will decelerate the vehicle. The Yellow wire will increase the speed and resume the speed. Then, depending on how you want set the cruise control by pushing up, pushing down, pushing left or pushing right, you can turn the switch any which way you choose to set the speed.

    It was necessary for me after I soldered the wires to the switch to cut and grind down the terminals just a little bit so it would not touch the metal handle bars. Your install may vary.

    Step Six: Programming the Servo Assembly

    Read the instruction manual on "Programming The Servo Assembly" thoroughly before continuing.

    Unscrew the back panel of the servo assembly and you will see a set of DIP switches, a red LED and a jumper connector.

    Remove the jumper plug . The jumper, is for an automatic transmission. Set the DIP switches as follows:

    1) ON
    2) ON
    3) ON
    4) OFF
    5) OFF
    6) OFF
    7) ON

    Switches 1 & 2 control the Pulses Per Minute. The PPM is 8,000.

    Switch 3 sets the Speed Signal. The 1998+ Kats use both Tach & Vehicle Speed Sensor, VSS (Step Six, Gray wire)

    Switch 4 & 5 controls Sensitivity. This setting may very well be subjective to your preference. I have it at Medium for now.

    Switch 6 determines whether the control switch is Normally Open or Normally Closed. Default is Normally Open.

    Switch 7 selects the Tach Signal. The tach signal comes from the coil.

    Once you have the Servo Assembly programed, you can confirm some of the electrical connections by viewing the LED. When the brake is applied the LED will illuminate. When you press Set on the Dash Mounted Panel or the 3-way switch the LED will illuminate. When you press Resume on the Dash Mounted Switch or the 3-way switch the LED will illuminate. If those are all good, put enough of the bike back together to take it out for a test spin on the freeway or at freeway speed. However, be prepared to either pull in the clutch or to press the Kill Switch on the bike should anything go wrong.

    With the cruise control operating properly, when the cruise control is engaged it will slightly grab and increase the tension on the throttle tube and hold speed. It is a little bit un-nerving the first few times.

    To disengage the cruise control there are two ways with the momentary toggle switch and three ways with the original "Dash Mounted Switch".

    1) Activate the brake light. With either choice of switches, by activating the brakes, the cruise control will still be in the ON mode. To resume speed or set speed, press SET or RESUME.

    2) Engage the clutch. The tachometer will jump about 2,000 rpms before the cruise control disengages. With either choice of switches, by engaging the clutch, the cruise control will still be in the ON mode. To resume speed or to set speed, press SET or RESUME.

    Only with the "Dash Mounted Switch":

    3) Press the OFF button on dash panel switch. Before you can SET or RESUME, you must press the ON button. Once you turn off the cruise control, via the ignition, all previous setting will be erased.

    Note: For those that have the "pre" Katana's, the basic installation will be the same. However, the wiring colors on the "pre" Katana's may be different than the "post's".

    On my first install I had the cruise control only connected to my tachometer (coil wire) to monitor the RPMs. Since the pre's do not have an electronic speedometer, the cruise control can be set up the same way. However, the Audiovox does come with a magnetic sensor, to be used in place of a VSS. It could be modified to the front or rear wheel using rare-earth magnets, instead of the magnet that comes in the kit. One might JB Welded the magnet on the rear sprocket, for example, and fabricate a mounting bracket for the sensor. Research & development would be necessary.

    When the cruise control was only monitoring the RPMs, while at freeway speed and after setting the cruise, the speed would drop about 4-5 MPH then hold steady.
    Last edited by squiggy; 11-13-2010, 12:08 AM.

  • squiggy
    I've checked my Flickr album and those pictures are gone. I know Flickr did some changes so I don't know if it happened then.

    I'll check to see if I still have them on my computer and repost them.

    Leave a comment:

  • Zone07
    looks like images are no longer available

    thanks for the info
    Last edited by Zone07; 07-23-2013, 07:36 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

    Leave a comment:

  • Wild-Bill
    I sold my 750 this winter and the CC went with it. Plan is to keep my eyes open for the non-vacuum driven version for my 1100.

    I just now noticed the switch mod you did. That's sweet! With the windscreen control on the 1100 I was wondering where I'd be able to fit the CC switches. A bracket like I did for the 750 was going to put the CC switches out of easy reach and it'd look pretty silly sticking that far up. I bet I can fit a switch or two alongside the windscreen button, though!

    Leave a comment:

  • vco123
    Your redneck bandsaw just made my day.....

    Leave a comment:

  • Wild-Bill
    Other spot I thought about mounting it was under the battery box. The reservoir I built will fit there on the pre and it looks like it's close enough to the swingarm pivot to avoid being hit. Don't know if that'd work on the post, though.

    Leave a comment:

  • squiggy
    OK I see now, you have a Pre. For the Post's Kats the place where you mounted the canister is already occupied by the rear shock reservoir. It's definitely a good spot for those that have it available.

    Leave a comment:

  • Wild-Bill
    I've got several photos. Check my photobucket album. The photos of the carb hookup are pretty awful but the rest of them aren't too bad. I built a bracket for the controls that used the clutch safety switch mount to hold the control pad above the left switch housing. That turned out pretty nice although I eventually painted the wires with liquid electrical tape. Like I mentioned before, the bracket I built to hold the cable housing at the carbs left too much slack so I had to build a longer one. I've got a photo of that around somewhere but I'm not sure where right now. I'll see about taking a photo of that before I take the CC off my 750 to transfer to the 1100.

    Leave a comment:

  • squiggy
    Originally posted by Wild-Bill View Post
    Never had any trouble with vacuum at all. For my canister I used a 6" of 2" diameter PVC pipe and a couple of end caps.
    The best canister I made is the large one, the 3"x6" PVC or ABS plumbing stuff. The smaller ones did not do well in holding speed which I suspect it was because of being to small a volume of vacuum. However, the size and mounting it has been the constant issue. But right now since the metal part to the cable broke I have not been using it anyways.

    Originally posted by Wild-Bill View Post
    It fit great under the left side cover and there's been no trouble at all with leaks or insufficient vacuum.
    Do you have a picture of your canister mounted there?

    Leave a comment:

  • BareKat
    This is a project I"d like to take a stab at after I get my engine/bike put back together.

    Leave a comment:

  • Wild-Bill
    3 items:

    1. Got curious and checked Flea-Bay. Their prices for the fully electronic version are all over the place but all high. Amazon's price is cheaper than even the cheapest on Flea-Bay once you include shipping. May as well go for Amazon.

    2. I did the install using the CCS-100 vacuum-driven version. Never had any trouble with vacuum at all. For my canister I used a 6" of 2" diameter PVC pipe and a couple of end caps. It fit great under the left side cover and there's been no trouble at all with leaks or insufficient vacuum.

    3. The one problem I had with function was that the CC wouldn't set over about 70 mph. Solved that by building a longer bracket for mounting the cable on the carbs. Now the cable housing mounts all the way forward, by the valve cover and it works great up to about 85 (the fastest I've tried it).

    I've enjoyed the CC enough that I'm going to transfer it to my 1100 before I sell the 750. Thanks for the write-up Squiggy! This has been fantastic.

    Leave a comment:

  • squiggy
    Small update, Murph'skits, the one in the write-up that sells the pre-fabbed vacuum canisters, now is selling the original, albeit a clone, vacuum controlled cruise control. Here's the link, and I updated the link on the front page.

    However, for $30 more I think I'd go with the fully electronic CC, that I linked with the Amazon ad, as I still had issues trying to deal with the homemade vacuum canister.

    Leave a comment:

  • Bart
    Careful as... the nuts on the throttle cannot be removed
    Yeah, that's my problem... kinda defeats the purpose of cruise control.


    Just kidding, sorry, nothing personal. Your write-up was absolutely fantastic... a bit beyond my skill level for now, but just makes me want to learn new things that much more. Couldn't help but throw in some playful sarcasm... ride on, brother.

    Leave a comment:

  • bob393
    That is one serious project!
    But thanks for taking the time to write it up for the rest of us.

    Leave a comment:

  • squiggy
    Another update, make sure to follow the original shape of the bracket that the throttle cables are bolted to. I did not and when it came time to do a carb sync the cruise control bracket was in the way.

    Here's a picture of what it should look like.

    The purpose of that cut-out is for the screw to sync carbs 1&2 to 3&4.

    Second thing I noticed is that this metal they use is crap. Crap I tell you. When I was removing my carbs to do some work the part that bolts to my homemade brake broke.

    You see the cable at the center next to the threads on the right? That's where it broke.

    Leave a comment: