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turbo EFI katana 1260

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  • nice
    2015 BMW S1000R

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    • Yawn

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      • do you still need a surge tank now that your running naturally aspirated?

        what is the purpose of the tank?
        Please, Just go home, relax, and have a think or two... hell... have as many as you can handle! It'll do all of us some good.
        Tony
        94 Katana 600

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        • Originally posted by il_ragazzo View Post
          do you still need a surge tank now that your running naturally aspirated?

          what is the purpose of the tank?
          The purpose is for the fuel injection. As fuel drops in the tank, there can be pick up problems. It works in place of float bowls in carbs. Just insures a constant feed of fuel even through momentary interuptions of pick up from the tank itself.

          Very much like buffering a streaming video for all you techno-geeks like me.
          Kat Parts Clearance Selling Everything

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          • Drilled and tapped the fuel rail. By using end fittings I would have to carve up the side covers so I am using plugs there. Keeps things cleaner. Installed the vac lines, a vacuum block and the map sensor. Getting busy under there. Still have fuel feed line, return line and air bleed line from the fuel pump.

            Also have to fab a fuel return to the tank along with a thermistor low fuel warning system.



            Kat Parts Clearance Selling Everything

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            • Today I worked on the mock up tank. Located the return line and low fuel warning.
              I am using a thermistor unit out of an SV650. For those who don't know what they are since gs1100 and katana don't have them, they work on resistance. When submerged in fuel they are cold and have a high resistance. When they become exposed to the air as the fuel leve drops, they heat up and that decreases their resistance allowing current to flow. When this happens, the low fuel light comes on.
              This unit has two, so I have low fuel and critically low fuel lights. My plan is to use on solid burning low light and for critical level, I will use a flashing light.

              The conductivity is for the ground wire, not the hot so there is not chance of shorting in the fuel which would ruin your day.

              I am fabbing the return out of a 3/8" npt 90 degree fitting with a 7" hollow tube.
              The thermistor unit I chose because the first low fuel indicator is very close to where the stock katana level is when you need to turn to reserve. The second thermistor is the kick in the pants warning.




              Kat Parts Clearance Selling Everything

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              • Well, the last of the frame work is done and ready for powder.

                Since grounding is so important and I have lots of electrics on the beast I thought it might be prudent to make sure there were some sound ground points on the bike.
                I used stainless steel that will not be getting powdered. I have them taped off so grounding will not be an issue with this bike. There is a tab in the tail, under the seat, by the tank (for the wiring harness ground point) and up front under the fairing. WHy? my clocks need a ground, EFI, and on and on.





                Next I had to reposition the rear brake return spring location




                Lastly, since there are no more katana headers to be had, I thought it may be a good idea to have a mounting point for the 1100e headers that are still available. I machined and tapped a rod and welded it into the peg stay. That way I can bolt up any kind of braket between it and the rear exhaust mounting hole for any number of configurations.



                One more final check for frame true and rear wheel alignment while I am at it.




                Kat Parts Clearance Selling Everything

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                • Thought the frame was ready for powder but decided to weld in some new front coil mounts to better fit the dyna coils. Done now, all stripped and theads protected. Off to powder she goes in the next day or two.

                  On to other things.
                  Here is the swingarm. I buried my oil catch can in the shock hole. Welded a plate over the hole and sandwiched the plate with the upper and lower pieces of the catch can. Now, its out of the way and clears the fuel pump on susupension compression.
                  Those aren't the fittings I will be using in final build. I am using one for crank case vent (valve cover) and the other for crank breather coming from clutch cover. Center top will hose into a filter. I will be safety wiring the can on for precausion.
                  Decided to weld on the extensions as well. Don't like the idea of my life depending on 4 screws.



                  Last edited by katman1260; 03-24-2011, 01:15 AM.
                  Kat Parts Clearance Selling Everything

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                  • I have never loved the gas cap on these bikes and I hate digging for keys at the pump. Especially when I don't have an ignition key. So, the only thing I have to do now is get rid of seat key....HHmmmmnnmmm??? next season maybe.
                    Looked at different options, the first one was the obvious one and go with a aircraft style, but, that's pretty boring, every bike has one. I also didn't want to ruin the look of the tank by moving the cap ot the center.

                    So I went with a pop up cap. Gloss black to match the black the tank will be on top. Nice and flush, low profile and sleek. It will be an excellent match for my paint scheme.
                    May not be everyones cup of tea, but I like it.


                    Kat Parts Clearance Selling Everything

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                    • Awesome work. gas cap is sweet

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                      • This whole build is very nice indeed sir.

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                        • two suzuki katanas

                          The frame and swing arm went off to take a powder so today I pulled the top end off my '82 7/1166. I road it last season. The left one..



                          She was oil hungry last season. I had bought it back off a dude who I had built it for several years ago. (I didn't build the engine on this one)
                          cylinders look like glass. Checked the clearances and the piston/cylinder numbers are bad. .004". for all four. Compresson was 155 across but was drinking oil. The machine shop that did the boring messed up cuz there are very few miles on the bike.
                          So, since I am selling it, I am going to send out another block for boring and check it when it gets back that it is no more than .0018"-.002". That should freshin her up some. Dyno numbers were 132 rwhp last season but she was a little toooooo loose.
                          The motor has less than 6,000 miles on it so I was none too please with it smokin. Brake in will be a little different than she saw last time I would expect. "hard and fast". My motto is break it in like your gunna ride it.
                          The cost will be around 300.00 without my labor so I am hoping to get 3,300.00 for it when all is done. The Ohlins and bandit arm are gone of course. She now sports koni's, stock carbs and stock swingarm.
                          Braced and powder coated frame
                          brand new wiring harness
                          gsxr wheels, forks brakes
                          6 piston brakes, steel braid lines
                          new gsxr controls
                          good paint and seat
                          new wind screen
                          Vance and Hines pipe
                          fresh engine and if I get my asking I'll install a digital keyless ignition
                          Oops, this turned into a sales pitch, sorry everyone.
                          I am hoping the frame will be back Monday. The swinger will be a while longer as dude isn't blasting gloss black for a week or so. So, may be a few days before my next post.
                          Last edited by katman1260; 03-26-2011, 02:10 AM.
                          Kat Parts Clearance Selling Everything

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                          • Not to turn this into a "how to", But could you enlighten me on that keyless deal. I seen what I am assuming is your video on you tube. and I think emailed you about it. But I have been tossing around the idea of using this kit from ebay and the guy in the video says to use it. However, he never really shows how to hook it up. It may be simple but I am one of those see it and do it kinda learners.
                            My Addiction (94 600 Kat)

                            Addicted to Modification since... 1995!
                            Electrical Tape, Zip-Ties, and Rivets are more like accents then eye sores.

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                            • Originally posted by Unholy_m View Post
                              Not to turn this into a "how to", But could you enlighten me on that keyless deal. I seen what I am assuming is your video on you tube. and I think emailed you about it. But I have been tossing around the idea of using this kit from ebay and the guy in the video says to use it. However, he never really shows how to hook it up. It may be simple but I am one of those see it and do it kinda learners.
                              When it is hooked up there is a small antenna the size of a AA battery that you mount anywhere. All you do to activate it is to pass the fob over it (within 1.5") and the bike lights up. Pass it over again and the bike shuts down. It replaces the duty of the key. I sell the kits for 99.00 that you put together with my wiring diagram or, I can make you a plug and play for 159.00.
                              http://www.parts.suzuki-katana.com/ (bottom of page)

                              The ones you get on ebay are not all the same. All of them however need the fob to stay in close proximity to the antenna. Mine does not. It has extra circuitry that keeps it active even when your remove the fob from the antenna.
                              On that video you saw I used wore the fob like a watch on a band with the fob on the inside of my wrist under my glove. I just placed my wrist close to the antenna which was behind my side cover and the bike came to life and shut down as I did that.

                              I only have two left at pressent. I will prob be making up some more kits as I get time. They are pretty popular. I hope that answers your questions? IF you have more email me [email protected] with your number and I can call you to better explain it.

                              Cheers,

                              (update)
                              SORRY, as I read your post again I didn't really answer it. Hooking it up pretty easy. there are two relays that have two wires each coming off them. the two pairs go to your ignition wires (orange, red, brown and grey) if you are an 82/83 katana guy. One wire to battery power and the other to ground. The plug and play kits come with a plug that matches your katana harness so all you do is connect the power/ground and plug it into the harness. Find a spot for the antenna and thats it.
                              With the kit you have to run the wires to the various components, crimp the connectors and so on. It is all layed out in the diagram that comes with it. I am sure you will have no problems and I can always call you and help you over the phone if you run into an issue your not sure of.
                              Last edited by katman1260; 03-26-2011, 03:51 AM.
                              Kat Parts Clearance Selling Everything

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                              • Frame and swing arm are back.... Now it starts getting fun..
                                Kat Parts Clearance Selling Everything

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