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Y2KTJ's $50 1990 gsx600f build

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  • #91
    Looks like I'm missing a connection on the block.



    sounds like something loose inside too.

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    • #92
      You’ll need to push and turn the key to the left for ‘lock’ and ‘park’ position left to right- park, lock, off then on.
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      • #93
        On your pic one plain orange will power the 3 fuses to the left one orange will power the next fuse (the 25 amp??? Too much 15 at the most) the red will power the last fuse on the Rh side, its a spare power takeoff and ATM not a consequence. Check the continuity with the ohm meter to see were they are connected as per the wiring diagram previously posted. Probably shouldn't rattle if you get a connection from the red to any other maybe there is something wrong with the fuse block

        if all good at the fuse block
        undo the red to the alternator and the red to the starter relay if dash lights still light there is a connection somewhere else
        Last edited by Lachie; 01-05-2019, 11:53 PM.
        “Anything that happens, happens. Anything that, in happening, causes something else to happen, causes something else to happen.
        Anything that, in happening, causes itself to happen again, happens again. It doesn’t necessarily do it in chronological order, though.”
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        • #94
          Followed the missing pin orange back to a factory splice with the other orange. 25 amp is what the fuse block says on it. when that 25 amp is pulled the gauge lights go out. I know I shouldn't have but I opened the block up and everything looked good in there. I was able to follow the power inside the block. The red is connected through the fuse to the orange and blue wire that is feeding the power to the lights.

          red is the top pin on the bottom plate and the orange and blue is the top on the middle plate.



          I studied the diagram last night and thought maybe the power was coming through the orange wire from the alternator. but nothing plugged or unplugged. I'm removing all the harness covering now to follow the red wire.

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          • #95
            looking at the diagram the black and white wire is the only one connected to the red. Maybe the O/B and B/W are in the wrong place in the plug? But B/W is ground so that doesn't make sense right?

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            • #96
              Just reread through again everything posted about my wiring issue and damn you guys have some patience! I have to apologize for my posts that don't make much sense! I'm usually posting after messing with the bike and having a few cold ones so my thoughts aren't as accurate as they should be. After stripping the coating from the harness and following all of the power wires red and orange it all comes back to the fuse block. There are no splices that aren't factory or exposed wires that could be the cuase. The orange and blue wire should not have power from the fuse block with the key off!

              Thinking about the pic that Lachie posted of the wiring got me wondering if I have the wrong one even though it plugged in and the bike started. So I checked the Ebay listing for the block I got thinking maybe I read it wrong or something and I have a 97 fuse block. When I ordered I assumed all pres were the same. Obviously not.

              The wiring diagram in the Haynes manual only shows up to 95 with a comment that 96 is similar and no mention of 97. I searched Google but no luck and I cant seem to get the adv search on the forum to go back in time. All I get for results is posts in this thread. Anyone have a diagram for the 97 or help me with the search function?


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              • #97
                Originally posted by y2ktj View Post

                red is the top pin on the bottom plate and the orange and blue is the top on the middle plate.


                Ok understood that, the bottom pin on the bottom plate (opposite the red pin) would be an orange wire as it feeds to the other fuses.

                The red pin supplies two fuses your orange blue and the spare fuse on your block.

                I can't see a reason for the bridge and a 25 amp fuse, unless it was acting as the main fuse on the other bike wiring circuit.

                The middle pic is where all the control (coloured) wires connect

                The top pic top lug is where the neutral wire connects


                Finding a 97 wiring diagram could be an issue and none of the wiring diagrams I have (and I have lots of manuals) have the red bridged to that terminal in the fuse box.

                I think wiring diagram is actually drawn wrong in the haynes manual which is not surprising as I have found a wire on my old system which is not in any wiring diagram


                The red (after the "spare" fuse) is connected to the + terminal on the front of the block
                The Black/white is directly connected to the - terminal on the front of the block
                As per the top pic


                What I would do is simply take the red wire (spade terminal) out of the plug and replace it with an orange (spade terminal).
                [google removing terminals if you need to, I use a very fine small screw drive to pries the locking tab back]

                As the fifth fuse is only a spare and doesn't supply anything this should not be an issue, any way if you wanted to use it as a spare take off would be good to be on a switched supply.

                25 amp is way too big for your wiring I cant see any wiring diagram with a 25 amp fuse in it. Only feasible if it was the main circuit Fuse. You want the fuse to go before the wiring melts and only the main red wire would be big enough to carry that amount of current
                Last edited by Lachie; 01-06-2019, 06:14 AM.
                “Anything that happens, happens. Anything that, in happening, causes something else to happen, causes something else to happen.
                Anything that, in happening, causes itself to happen again, happens again. It doesn’t necessarily do it in chronological order, though.”
                ― Douglas Adams

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                • #98
                  That's what I was thinking. The orange with the missing pin should be where the red is.

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                  • #99
                    Now I’m confused, did you change the fuse block? Obviously not the loom as the 96-97 will not crossover easily to 88-95. 96 and 97 eliminated the circuit breaker and installed a 25 amp fuse to replace it. It will be wired the same as 88-95 with the exception of the new fuse location ( think of it as the breaker and it will make more sense).
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                    • Yup, problem found.... fuse block. It can be used, but it will need to be repinned or rework the wiring. The 25 amp circuit should be ignored as you have the breaker or relocate the breaker out term to the 25 amp fuse out term. Look at page 8-25, the 93 onward 750 wiring it has the 96-97 type fuse block.
                      Last edited by 92xjunker; 01-06-2019, 02:11 PM.
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                      • Originally posted by 92xjunker View Post
                        Now I’m confused, did you change the fuse block? Obviously not the loom as the 96-97 will not crossover easily to 88-95. 96 and 97 eliminated the circuit breaker and installed a 25 amp fuse to replace it. It will be wired the same as 88-95 with the exception of the new fuse location ( think of it as the breaker and it will make more sense).
                        Not all 96 and 97 are the same, which makes it even more frustrating
                        -Steve


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                        • I didn’t want to confuse him any more with specific changes.......lol
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                          • Lol thanks for that!!

                            So problem solved. Swapped the red and orange and replaced the 25 fuse for a 10. Lighs stay of now. On with key and all other lights are working and the starter kicks.

                            Here's a pic of the wiring.

                            Let me know if I'm missing something.

                            Thinking alittle rtv around the edge to glue the peices together and keep water out. Any other thoughts?

                            Found some bolts for the center stand so going to give that a go now.

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                            • Center stand in. Easier than I thought using a socket with an extension on the bolt behind to leverage it into place.



                              And should it hit the lower shock mount?


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                              • You’ll need to install a stand stop bracket on the midpipe of the exhaust.
                                Last edited by 92xjunker; 01-06-2019, 11:56 PM.
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