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Y2KTJ's $50 1990 gsx600f build

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  • #61
    I've put the fairings back on trying to figure out what hardware goes where but from pics on the web it looks like I have it the right way. No pics or mention of it in manual. The pdf manual is great to have but there is no index so I'll have to go through it again. I'll figure it out but if I do have to swap it should I expect a gush of oil? I'm guessing it's not under pressure so shouldn't be to bad. Correct me if I'm wrong!

    Going to use the stock exhaust I have. Honestly haven't done much research on it yet and been awhile since I put it on. I thought the exhaust was one big piece from headers to the can mount. You say mid pipe like it's 3 different peices on each side. header, mid pipe and then a 3rd pipe to the can. I thought mine had been cut but maybe I'm just missing the 3rd pipe? Search here I come.

    Is there a performance reason for capping the cross pipe or just for ease of disassembly?

    And I have a question on the ignition switch. the printing is fairly worn out and I've done some searching but no real answer. I only have 2 positions. off, key goes in and then turn right to on. The reason I ask is without the key I get a full 12.7v to the gauges. the gauge lights stay on without the key. I've unplugged them for now. No other lights on, like the neutral or oil light are on. 95% sure all wires and plugs at the dash are plugged in. There is one female plug on the harness where it splits for the coils that I can't find a Male for. I'll check the color of it next time I'm out there but any thoughts on why the lights stay on?

    Played with paint at work today and thinking something like this.

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    • #62
      I think you said you have a manual but hard to look at on the phone to sort your wiring your will really need to review the wiring diagram

      https://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=138096

      to download pre manual put it on a tablet or print it off page 199 on the pdf

      Sounds like you have an aftermarket ignition switch as pretty sure there should be three positions park, off and on.

      check wiring going into plug the grey wire supplies power to the inst lights and sounds like it's permanently wired.

      Re the oil cooler from sounds like its just off center I would usually put the bottom tabs in first and then fit the top bolts. You could just bend the tabs in and out anyway
      Last edited by Lachie; 12-19-2018, 02:16 AM.
      “Anything that happens, happens. Anything that, in happening, causes something else to happen, causes something else to happen.
      Anything that, in happening, causes itself to happen again, happens again. It doesn’t necessarily do it in chronological order, though.”
      ― Douglas Adams

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      • #63
        Originally posted by y2ktj View Post
        Is there a performance reason for capping the cross pipe or just for ease of disassembly?
        Just easy to remove is all.
        They rust together making it a pain in the ass to take off.
        My Katana-1100 17" wheel swap
        http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136894

        Comment


        • #64
          Originally posted by Lachie View Post
          I think you said you have a manual but hard to look at on the phone to sort your wiring your will really need to review the wiring diagram

          https://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=138096

          to download pre manual put it on a tablet or print it off page 199 on the pdf

          Sounds like you have an aftermarket ignition switch as pretty sure there should be three positions park, off and on.

          check wiring going into plug the grey wire supplies power to the inst lights and sounds like it's permanently wired.

          Re the oil cooler from sounds like its just off center I would usually put the bottom tabs in first and then fit the top bolts. You could just bend the tabs in and out anyway
          Yeah manual on my phone. Going to print a few pages for sure. Ignition looks original but maybe just worn out. I've been gentle with it but there did seem to be a position to the left. Key goes in in the off position?

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          • #65
            And / or park
            “Anything that happens, happens. Anything that, in happening, causes something else to happen, causes something else to happen.
            Anything that, in happening, causes itself to happen again, happens again. It doesn’t necessarily do it in chronological order, though.”
            ― Douglas Adams

            Comment


            • #66
              Ok so spent some time with the wiring. Here's a pic of the ignition.



              Key goes in that position. Right to start bike and does turn to the left but the key isn't removable. Followed the grey wires from the gauge lights to a black 9 pin ( if I remember)plug. unplugged no power to lights. From the plug the grey becomes orange and blue and runs to the right switch pod with 3 other orange wires. Opened the pod and hard to see the wire connections but I only see 1 orange and a yellow.

              So before I dig into the switch do the gauge lights come on when you turn the key to on or with the run switch. And the headlight? My headlight turns on with the key turn. I'll get it figured out when I get back out there.

              And came home from work to a nice surprise at my door. Post office working on the weekend and my center stand and a few other things arrived!
              Slapped the screen on to see how it looked before stripping the fairings for the electrical. I'll paint the inside of the lower half black when the time comes. I'll use the paint used to paint lexan RC bodies. And I think I have figured out all the body work bolts.


              Now all that is left for parts is mufflers, chain, front brake lever and some turn signals cuase the ones on it need replacing.

              Comment


              • #67
                The gauges cluster lights up with the key on. Just like the headlight/tail light is supposed to.
                My opinion on the R/C lexan paint, it will most likely fade under the suns ultra rays. I like to use engine spray paint thats resistant to 500 degrees. I would just paint (black) from that Suzuki sticker down, to hide the gauge bottoms.
                My Katana-1100 17" wheel swap
                http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136894

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                • #68
                  Yeah exactly where. no harm to the plastic? Never thought about fading good point.

                  Comment


                  • #69
                    You could probably get away with using a permanent magic marker, like a big "sharpie" to color in the bottom of that wind screen. Or, just use it to draw a line where you want to paint it.
                    I use to race R/C cars when I was younger, so I've used that method when painting before.
                    My Katana-1100 17" wheel swap
                    http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136894

                    Comment


                    • #70
                      Not bike related but was into rc as a kid and got back into it a bit when my little guy was at the right age. Pulled out my old rc10t that sat on a shelf for 20+ years, put some cheap new electronics in it and a lipo battery and the thing screems. I laugh at how happy I was back then with 15min runtime! lol My camping fun is a 1/10th scale version of my Jeep.


                      Was a painter for years so I'm good with tape. Pretty sure the wife got me a new shop compressor so looking forward to learning to spray some paint. Had good results with a spray can on the jeep but the armor takes a beating and I re spray it every couple years. Looking forward to painting the bike. Read a few plastic repair threads and thinking the right fairing might be to damaged to repair. Salvage is closed till after the holidays but see if they have one when I call for cans.

                      Couple center stand question, is the side stand removed? Haven't really looked at the bottom of the bike and the manual is vague but I'll have to rig something to hang the bike from if it does. And it lifts only the back tire of the ground right? If I want to remove the front tire I'll need something else? Reason I ask is I'll build something more permanent when installing the center stand. My shops a portable garage so cant just hang it from the rafters.

                      Long post, multiple questions and only 1 pic that's not a bike so won't get many replies! lol Having a couple drinks after wrapping presents! lol

                      And to steal a line from the sign outside my buddies 4x4 shop. "Happy whatever doesn't offend you!" lol Merry Christmas Katriders!

                      Comment


                      • #71
                        You leave the side stand on the bike, no problems !
                        Here is where you're going to be glad you got that center stand. You put the bike up in the air/on the center stand, and you can just prop up the front with a piece of wood or what ever under the bike. This way you can remove the forks without any other equipment ! Your welcome

                        As for the RC10, man I always wanted one of those. Not sure if yours is the same model. I wanted the original Team Associated, gold aluminum tub chassis dune buggy model. As a kid, I never got around to getting it though. When I finally got a job I was changing hobbies into fixing up my Ford Mustang. I ended up selling my RC stuff while at the big boy drag strip one evening. Every time I see those damn drones on television, I'm like, those newbies
                        My Katana-1100 17" wheel swap
                        http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136894

                        Comment


                        • #72
                          Perfect. Have one stop to make then a couple hours on the bike before the family comes home. Rc10t was the truck version.

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                          • #73
                            Small things can make such a difference. Buddy picked up the rear seat, lower bars??( under the seat with hooks) brackets and hardware, even the plugs for the cap bolts last week and dropped them off yesterday. Good to know the local guy includes everything.



                            And while cleaning the rear grab bar I see that the bike used to be red. So at least I'll be bringing some of the original color back to the bike.

                            Put the headlight on with 1 bolt in the fairings to see how it looked and have to say the square light is growing on me. I like the look of the newer style front ends but this old kat has its own style.

                            Test fit the center stand but unfortunately it didn't come with the bolts and I don't have any to fit. It did come with the lever and springs and the springs look to be in good shape. Tight and not stretched out.

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                            • #74
                              There should be two bushings that slide inside the center stand holes, same size.
                              The headlight, being glass, will not fade.
                              My last R/C was the JRXT. It looked very similar to your RC10T. I believe Team Associated copied Traxxis on that design.
                              EDIT: Oops, I mean Team Losi...sorry, its been too long ago.
                              Last edited by katanarider; 12-26-2018, 11:31 PM.
                              My Katana-1100 17" wheel swap
                              http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=136894

                              Comment


                              • #75
                                Bushings are there. Looking at chains and sprockets today. Local place has RK chains and R.O.C sprockets. Thoughts on them?

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