[DocCannabis]

BTW... happy birthday!

+1

[crazycraven420]

+1

Thanks Doc CANNABIS, 4/20 FTW!!! :

[DocCannabis]

Damn right FTW! Hopefully this rain stops, some friends and I are planning on a barbeque tomorrow! Hope ya have a good weekend as well

[crazycraven420]

Damn right FTW! Hopefully this rain stops, some friends and I are planning on a barbeque tomorrow! Hope ya have a good weekend as well

bud, booze, bonfire an bbq? yea I think ill do alright : oh an lets not forget boobs an butts yes im married an yes I can still look..its my birthday damn it ill look if I want to!

[91_gsx600F katana]

http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=54467&page=7

this is the page on how to do the fork preload mod. The washers are 1/2" washers (that is a 1/2" hole in the middle and around 1.4" OD I believe) They get stacked about 1" thick so like 12 washers on each side. This gets put between the stock washer between the spring and the thin steel preload tube. So basically you increase the preload on the stock soft spring which makes it feel and act alittle stiffer. THis helps when you heavier than the original 170lb rate that they are setup at. Im 6'1" and 190lbs naked and I bottom the stock forks out easily, now I cant and it stiffens up the ride and changes handling characteristics, but after 2 days im used to it.

You NEVER want to lock the rear brakes up! lol. Stick with the semi metallics as you dont need to spend more than 10$ on rear pads anyways. You should be able to lock them up with organic or semi metallic without a problem... but that doesnt mean you should do it! You shouldnt ride your bike naked on a dare either but YOU know how that goes lol.

[91_gsx600F katana]

Also hand made manameters work just as well as the store bought stuff, basically measure the same thing the same way. Difference is that the hand made ones won't look as cool lol. Some times they work better, bc you can make them the way you want them. I went with the liquid type as Ive heard is more accurate but they have the store bought ones that are basically 4 vacuum gauges but those are harder and less accurate to use i heard. Mine is super easy and I do 2 carbs at a time.

[DocCannabis]

bud, booze, bonfire an bbq? yea I think ill do alright : oh an lets not forget boobs an butts yes im married an yes I can still look..its my birthday damn it ill look if I want to!

Please by all means look all you want! I would too!

[Kat600F95]

Great build..... Big time props

Very inspiring

[crazycraven420]

Great build..... Big time props

Very inspiring

Well thank you! I appreciate it

[91_gsx600F katana]

Yes good work. That guy who posted in my turbo build said he had a R6 shock so sale.... Cough cough lol. And now all you need is a turbo and ull be good

[crazycraven420]

Yes good work. That guy who posted in my turbo build said he had a R6 shock so sale.... Cough cough lol. And now all you need is a turbo and ull be good

As much as I would love to throw the R6 shock on I just dont have the funds right now. My next mission is overhauling the forks cuz I noticed today they dont look to great.

Ok...BACK TO BUSINESS!!

I got my new carbs on finally an the o-rings between the motor an carb boots.

First off I noticed something neat today..today is 4/22 and my trip gauge read 422...then when I got it all done an grabbed my gear from inside an glanced at the clock, guess what time it was...4:22 just kinda odd.


So this is my version of a "how to" for changing carb boot o-rings and sealing up the airbox. Here's the steps an pics along the process..first off came the seat..

Then removed the rear plastics to have it as clear as possible for access etc. For the front plastics I removed ALL the bolts holding the main fairings and let them rotate out of the way. They didn't get in my way an I didn't have to remove the turn signals! ..

Next removed the bolts at the back of the fuel tank, unplug the fuel gauge wires on the right hand side which should be hooked to the #4 carb then the hoses from the petcock and lift the tank off...


After the tank is off you need to remove the fuel tank/airbox bracket. 2 bolts and 1 screw on either side..

Once the bracket is out of the way you loosen the clamps from the airbox to the carbs an pop the airbox off. Then it will look something like this..


With carbs ready to get off next I loosened the clamps on the motor side an rocked the carbs up an down while pulling on em a bit.
The next few steps are only if your removing the carbs entirely like I am to install the new set from Arsenic.
The choke cable is quite simple to remove but the throttle cable was kind of tricky. You need a 10mm an I found the best way was slipping the wrench under the top rail the carbs are mounted to..


You have to loosen it from the top enough to free the lower nut an slip the cable thru the slit on the side.

As you can see here..the #3 carb sync plug is gone so this is one of several reasons I bought a set from Arsenic.


With the carbs off we get back to the boots. I found it much easier to remove the 2 allen head bolts holding the oil lines to the head giving much more room an visibility to do what comes next.

Here's what a few of the screws looked like on my boots..

Yea not pretty so I whipped this out..

After hitting all the screws with penetrating oil I took a 3/8" socket extension with a rounded end..

I place the end shown on the head of each each screw and hit it a few times with a little force from a 5lb sledgehammer. Dont go crazy but a few solid taps to break the screw free from the oxidation..


After tapping it a few times I took my screwdriver of choice, your gonna want a real tight fit..not just a typical #2 tip phillips head. Basically the tip I used was more short tipped an wide an I hammered the screwdriver into place with a couple nice taps an as you can see the screwdriver stayed in place on its own..

Once it fits tight I grabbed firmly an broke it loose. On a few of these I had to repeat the extension an screwdriver deal a couple times til they broke free..




As you can see..mine were clearly not sealing well at all..it looks like rust but its more dirt an gunk so I scraped it off with a flat screwdriver..

Then I took some 600 grit sandpaper an lightly sanded the surface clean..


As I went I was sure not to let any crap in the intake ports. Here's what it looks like before an after..



Now onto the boots, here's a good look at the crappy screws on mine..

And the mating surface of the boot an the flattened o-ring..

I put boots from my other motor on since they were in better shape. Here is what it looks like cleaned an without the o-ring..

And with the OEM o-ring in it..

Now just putting them back on the motor with new allen head bolts an washer..


As you can see in this next pic I replaced all the clamp screws with new stainless 4mm x 25mm .70 pitch screws..

Here you can see why..

They are the same size screw on either side of the carbs so I bought 8.

The next bit is about sealing the airbox up to avoid vacuum leaks. If your not sealing your airbox you can reverse the previous steps to finish up the process. I didn't wanna take any chances so I took a few minutes to be sure. I used the black RTV but im sure you could use something else..

You only need to seal the mating surface, I ran my finger around each boot..



I also used an appropriate sized bolt an some RTV to seal up the drain on the bottom of the airbox..



Be sure when re-mounting the airbox boot to each carb that you remove the air filter an push each boot with your hand as you tighten the clamp.
That was it for me once it dried so I put it all back together an went for a ride!


oh and heres a shot of Arsenic's (partly chris's motorcycles) super clean rebuilt factory pro carbs on my dirty ass bike


I know I left some small details out like swapping fuel lines, overflow hoses etc but you get the point

[arsenic]

Why the hell is that inline fuel filter on the fuel hose? You're gonna remove that right?

[crazycraven420]

yes Arsenic I am when I get new fuel hoses! they're not paper either, they're a very coarse screen. The in tank filter is about 20 times finer just to give an idea. I grabbed em previously just as a coupler basically. I honestly forgot about em til I opened her up today otherwise I woulda ordered the fuel hose with my o-rings or with my manometer order . The manometer comes tomorrow an the sync to follow.

I will say this though, I did have to manually suck on the vacuum hose : my pri position on the petcock fails to work as it should. Only works with vacuum so I improvised to fill the bowls. Other than that it fired right up..idled smooth as shit after it warmed up an rode pretty damn good. I kept expecting it to stumble or drop a cylinder it did not though. Im anxious to see how close the sync is.

[arsenic]

As close as a bench sync can be. If it idled well and ran well, then it worked. If the sync was way off, you'd know it without checking.

[crazycraven420]

I even made my wife come see for herself...I showed her my old carbs then fired the bike up an asked her..now you understand why i ordered these carbs? She said "yup!", nodded her head an walked away...that means a lot! :